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richo106

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Everything posted by richo106

  1. Hi All I have painted mdf skirtings downstairs on top of tiles Would people recommend a clear sealant all the way round from the bottom of the skirting to the tiled floor? If so what is the best clear silicone to use? Kind Regards
  2. Hi All We are only a few weeks away from moving into our home and the mrs has decided she might want a burglar alarm now - even though we have a full CCTV system The internals of the house is 95% complete so would have to be a wireless system Could anyone recommend a good wireless burglar system at all? Many Thanks
  3. Hi We are having issues with phone signal within our house and it's very frustrating when making calls, me and the mrs are on different networks and its the same for both I have tried looking back through the forum and its look like people have used chinese mobile phone boosters Could anyone recommend one that would be suitable to boost signal for all networks maybe? Only issue now is my house all almost finished so I can't run any cables internally unfortunately
  4. Hi @gambo Due to some awkward positioning of internal steel beams I had to run the majority of my downstairs ducting down a bedroom wall which I then studded off. Not ideal but this was the only way i could make it work The cowls I have are: https://masltd.com/product/helios-roof-terminal/ These were installed by my roofer (at least 1.5m apart and horizontally) and then I ducted to them I questioned the supplier of the system and they were not concerned about mould/condensation, I only turned the system on last week so will just have to see how it goes
  5. Thanks @JohnMo Really appreciate the reply, I will fully insulate it tomorrow before I get the system commissioned.
  6. The MVHR is fully installed, it’s just the loft insulation that is only half done Do you mean wait until fully insulated too? We are not living there currently
  7. I have installed my MVHR and is going to be fully commissioned on Tuesday The couple of days I’ve found quite of bit of condensation coming out 2/3 of the outlets. I am guessing this is because majority of the pipes and vents are not properly insulated in the loft and the heating is on low. when the system is fully commissioned and turned on Tuesday will this stop all condensation built up even though the ducts are fully insulated yet? it’s making wet patches on the ceiling and conscious it will ruin the paint when I do it. many Thanks
  8. Thanks for all the replies Mainly due to costs I think I am going to take a punt with the Aruba switch and AP's Many Thanks
  9. Hi All I am looking for purchase a 24 port POE network switch and 4 x WiFi AP's I have been into it and found these 2 possible options, i just wondered if anyone had any good/negative experiences or any advice at all: Ubiquiti https://www.4gon.co.uk/ubiquiti-unifi-uap-ac-pro-indoor-outdoor-access-point-uapacpro-p-6638.html https://www.4gon.co.uk/ubiquiti-unifi-24-port-poe-pro-switch-uswpro24poe-p-8532.html This equipment is just over £1000, i will have to pay to help set up it initially. Also need some form of Ubiquiti cloud controller. However reading on the forum this brand seems very popular - albeit it seems to have some users seem to experience some issues Aruba https://www.netxl.com/poe-network-switches/aruba-1830-jl813a-24-port-switch/ https://www.netxl.com/wifi-access-points/aruba-instant-on-ap22-rw-access-point-r4w02a/ This equipment is half the price around £500, I don't need any cloud controller and seems a lot easier to set up I will be using this equipment for very basic uses, 4 x AP's and then just provide a wired network connection to devices (TV's/ TV boxes etc..) My broadband speed is around 60Mb - I am guessing its ok just to have the basic Sky router (not wi-fi max) as I will be turning the wi-fi part off? Looking at it like that it seems like Aruba is the best option but would very much appreciate any advice on this as this is my first kind installing/using a home network of this kind? Many Thanks
  10. Thank you @ProDave @oliwoodings for your replies - I will be most certainly going down the Frogtape route! I will give all the windows and doors a good scrub before painting Thanks again
  11. Hi All sorry for a very basic question but I have not done much painting before so was just wondering what’s the best way to paint upto a window/bi fold door? I have attached my examples, I’ve caulked all my woodwork up but just not sure what to use now on my windows and bi fold door to get the best finish
  12. Thank you both I will look into these now Also does this make sense paint wise: Ceilings/Coving - Dulux Trade Vinyl Matt Walls - Dulux Trade Diamond Matt (for all downstairs and landing) planning to use vinyl matt for bedrooms Woodwork - Dulux Trade Diamond Eggshell
  13. Hi All I am finally at that point of putting paint on the walls - I feel like there is 1000's m2 to do! All the walls and ceilings are mist coated I am planning on giving the walls light sand down by hand with a pole sander, what grit would people recommend? Also what is a good roller that people could recommend for me to emulsion the walls & ceilings? I have bought lots a cheap ones in the past but they have all being rubbish Any advice/recommendations very helpful Any general painting tips appreciated too! - was planning on doing the ceilings, woodwork and then walls in that order
  14. Sorry for the confusing message, I’ve had to move over single back boxes to make room for the new double back boxes. I am going to dab in some patches of plasterboard in the bigger holes I’ve got it’s just the slithers I was concerned about. I’ve got some air tight foam knocking about and ordered some sikaflex SBT (thanks @Onoff) Will the easifill stick to the sikaflex EBT ok?
  15. Hi all I know this is a very random question but for one reason or another (mainly the mrs changing her mind so need a double back box now) But there is some gaps around the sockets now but no where to fill against if you know what I mean as there is nothing behind it. Is there something I can put in/foam in that I push back leaving 2/3mm so I can easi fill Many Thanks
  16. Hi All i know this has been discussed previous and yes I would of LOVED a warm roof but I haven’t so i could do with some help/inspiration on insulating the MVHR duct work in the loft i have attached a couple of pictures to show my install. The intake and exhaust ducts are double insulated using 2 lots of the foil insulation One issue I have if that the ducts have to come up close to the eaves of the roof so conscious I can’t just put 400mm Isover on as it will touch the felt…anything that I could sleeve say 1m or so? In terms of all the other ducting and associated bits coming off the MVHR I was just going to cover in 400mm Isover spacesaver while making sure I could access the filters Many Thanks Jake
  17. Or would thistle bond it be ok?
  18. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bostik-sbr-admixture-white-5ltr/91566 Is this the correct SBR primer? Do i just roller it on neat? OR does it need diluting? Would the plasterers need to use multi finish or would board finish be ok? Thanks again
  19. I suggested this....didn't go down as well as I hoped haha
  20. "But what about [...] . I would have thought that was obvious. " Not showing a reaction to that technique is an acquired art. This made me laugh out loud - this is most accurate thing I have read in a long time Yes I have been asking for a 'design' for weeks but its now holding us up as it needs to be done so skirting and coving can be finished etc... The soundbar would be recessed below the tv The mrs doesn't seem bothered and her current view of when the TV breaks is we will cross that bridge when it comes to it
  21. Good Morning All The mrs has now decided she wants the TV recessed into the wall (despite it all be plastered already) so I am going to stud it out to house the TV The mrs wants the TV as tight as you can get it with around 2/3mm space around the TV My concern would be sound, would this greatly affect the sound quality and would we need a soundbar? Have people on the forum done this? What gap around the edge did you leave? I have the TV and a suitable TV bracket that can pull straight ( bracket is heavier than the TV!) - Samsung QE65QN95CA Any advice or information on this would be greatly appreciated
  22. Apologies for the terrible (rushed) first post - My ASHP was in stand-by (off at the controller but on at the isolators) I have spoken to my installer and I have now turned on my ASHP on and left it to heat the buffer tank with the UFH re-circ pump off Many Thanks for the quick replies
  23. Spoken to my installer and tiler…hopefully all sorted now Many Thanks
  24. Hi All I have had my ASHP commissioned and had it running for a few weeks however since 1st Jan i have had to turn it off so my ground floor can be tiled. My ground floor will be finished tiling today but the tiler said to wait another 14 days before turning any heat on! I haven't got any anti freeze in my ASHP system currently - I am panicking a bit with the freezing temperatures we have been having that it may cause damage to something Is this something I should be worried about? Is there anything i can do over the next week or so to help negate any issues I may have? Many Thanks
  25. I have been looking at TVs for a few days and decided to go for: Samsung QE65S90C OLED 65inch Against my better judgement we are getting the frame made as tight as we can, i did tell my mrs if the TV breaks we could be in the s**t
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