flanagaj

Seem to have gone off topic on this thread. I am trying to understand the options regarding the neighbouring properties deeds being incorrect relative to historic copies.

I am not sure that is 100% correct. I have not seen anything on the DEFRA literature that states that you need to do this. It would be great if this was the case, but not convinced. I am sure it only relates to systems that drain into a water course and not those that use a drainage field which is away from a water course.

We are purchasing a property that has a shared septic tank which is shared by two neighbouring properties. The property is unregistered, and in the old title deeds dated 1920 it clearly makes reference to the two properties having to pay a 1/3 share towards the maintenance of the septic tank. But when I downloaded the title deeds of said neighbouring properties from the land registry, it just states the following. The land edged yellow on the filed plan has the benefit of the following rights reserved by a Conveyance of land lying to the north of the land in this title known as Mertesse dated 11 January 1971 made between (1) Sir Henry Christopher Carden (Vendor) (2) Sir Henry Christopher Carden and others (Trustees) and (3) George Sidney Fishlock and Claire Louise Fishlock (Purchasers):- "subject nevertheless to (i) the rights for the owner or occupier of Number 1 Church Cottages East Woodhay aforesaid to the running of water and soil through the drain running from Number 1 Church Cottages into the septic tank situatated in the garden of the property hereby conveyed (the line of such drain and the position of such septic tank being shown by a broken red line ending with a square on the plan annexed hereto) and (2) to the right of the owner or occupiers of Number 1 Church Cottages to use the said septic tank" So it looks like someone somewhere has made a mistake. Keen to understand whether this means the neighbouring properties have a legal write to free sewage disposal at our (prospective purchasers) expense?

Thanks. I could not find it on eBay when I searched earlier.. That does seem like an awful lot of money for what you are actually getting. I see people on ebay are selling oak treads at £300 each. If you have a PT, saw bench and a Domino you could make these for < £40. There is around 1/2 ft3 of oak involved in each tread. So hoping it can be done for a lot less. Thanks for the post though. There is a local fabricator near me and so long as I read up on building regs I am sure with the help of an SE I can get them to make something.

Ok, I was not sure which section to post this question as although it's stairs, the question is about a floating staircase. Just wonder anyone knows where you can source one of the below and what sort of price you can expect to pay. I have a PT / Bench saw, so will make the treads myself.

We were recently in Italy and were fortunate to stay in a very contemporary apartment. I can't recall seeing downlights in the ceilings, and in one room there were two 2cm strips running down the wall vertically and at first I thought it was some sort of expansion joint, but it was an LED light. Very neat looking ultra minimalist. I am thinking that if you go for shadow gaps you have to also do something different with the lighting arrangement. Keen to hear of any stories, or if anyone has any good links on the subject. Thanks

So this got me thinking last night to see whether there was a good solution to installing these around door linings. I came up with the below approach. If fitting them to stud walls then the dimensions of the wall will be 95mm and therefore your rebates that you cut with the fine kerf will be straightforward. Block walls might be trickier. it all depends on how and who fits the trims to the stud work or blockwork.

That is very nice!

So, the proposal for the new extension should our plans come off, is to have a polished concrete floor in the kitchen / diner. I just love the industrial look to them. What I am trying to understand is that with underfloor heating, would you need to use a specialist company to pour the concrete and power float it first, and then call in a different contractor to polish it? Keen to hear how others have achieved this.

It's total floor space and not just the ground floor space. You got my hopes up for a moment that I could halve the project costs!

That is a very good price. I was looking at £2.20 / concrete block.

if you need to purchase 7500 bricks and 1500 blocks, can you get a better price than TP or the builders merchants?

I was just looking at the estimator service. Keen to understand how they go about deriving the labour costs and material costs. Are they accurate?

Are the results in 'Chinglish' ?

Consensus does seem to be that you should run them internally.

We are purchasing a property that needs to be extended and modernised. The appearance it pretty much already agreed, as we are going to mirror the next door property. Basically after a service for the following. 1) Drawings and ideas for room layouts 2) Get planning application in and then provide structural drawings 3) Maybe manage the build to plate height, but if this is expensive we might just get a single contractor for groundworks / super structure to plate height It's a two storey extension and a single storey extension of ~ 120m2 total floor space. Any advice as to potential costs / other options that might be worth exploring.

This is my summation of the situation as well. The fact that you can dispose it at your local recycling centre indicates to me that asbestos cement roof sheets are no where as deadly as these companies portray in their marketing spin. I have a job like this shortly, and I am going to suit up and do it myself. From sites I have looked at, it would appear that you will pay around £1000 to have the roofing removed from a single storey extension.

So I have just had a look at a 3 tonne machine with a pecker and also a 1 tonne dumper and seems I can hire that for < £500 for three days. I was then thinking of simply dumping it in the front driveway and get it collected with a grab truck. Maybe three days to demolish a single storey extension and a garage is way too long, and you could do it in a day? I understand that the most cost effective way of disposing of rubble is with via a local farmer, but how much can you expect to pay for a full grab lorry load?

When breaking the slab, would you cut through with a stone saw near to the main structure so as to risk any damage to the house?

We are having an extension done, but the property already has a 1970s single storey extension attached to the house, which is in poor condition. I am thinking that rather than trying to salvage anything from the existing extension, it would be better to demolish it and break up the concrete floor. Questions I have 1) Can you do this yourself and apart from a stone saw, would you need any heavy machinery, or would it take an age and someone with a jcb could do it in a day? 2) What is the best way to get rid of the waste. Would you get a concrete crusher in to crush the bricks / concrete for use as hardcore in the proposed extension? 3) Do you need to notify the council or could this be part of the planning application for the house extension? The extension is shown below.

I think that is very rare

Thanks Kelvin

I have read that the waste from a water softener is very saline and not suitable for disposal into a septic / domestic sewage treatment. I doubt this can be disposed off via a rain water soakaway, does it effectively rule out having a water softener?

Ok, so it is more for aesthetic reasons? The bathrooms on the property are all on the side of the property and won't really be visible.

I am trying to understand why soil pipes are run internally these days. When I renovated a property in 2006, I ran the pipes externally and never had any problems. Plus, I didn't have any boxing in to do internally. So is there a reason why this is done, or is it simply for aesthetics?