flanagaj

Here are the estimates that I received from Estimators. Excavation & Foundations - 7 days (2GW + 1 Labourer) Foundation Masonry - 5 days (2B + 1 Labourer) Brickworks - 15 days (2B + 1 Labourer) My theory is that if estimators can't be that far off when it comes to estimating costs for a build.

I had our plans estimated and it gave me a figure for labour up to plate height. So far, they have ranged from 10k over the estimators 20k figure, up to a staggering 45k over. I really don't know how to proceed now as we have had 4 quotes so far. It's a very simple brick and block rectangle, built using stretcher bond.

The tech architect submitted our drawings to BC as follows. I do however, want level thresholds on the entrance door, garage door and both patio sliders. That makes it difficult to not have it at DPC level or very slightly below.

Are you saying that as long as I have the correct fall on the ACO system I can have the outside levels at dpc or a few mm under it?

I understand that for the garage and doors with level threshold, you install some sort of ACO, but what about the areas of the house which are not entrances, but you want at the same level? Could you for instance run some sort of ACO drainage around the whole house so that you have the exact same level? I am trying to avoid having a 150mm step down from level threshold areas. For example, I have a path that runs down the back of the house. It has steps one end, but at the other end is our patio. If I keep this section 150mm below dpc, I will then have a 150mm step up to the patio and will create a potential pond.

In the end I've gone with the Norrsken 319A sliders. They have a fixed pane and the frame is chunky, but I'm ok with the aesthetics. I really liked the way that when you closed the door, it felt like you were closing and aircraft door. The sealing is very impressive.

I've been using Heras panels for our site entrance, but last night's storm has busted them and I lost a pair last year to wind. I'm now contemplating just buying a set of proper steel site gates and putting them. Yes. They are nearly £900, but I just need a better solution than Heras. We have nosey neighbours and I like to screen it off and am currently using the hoarding that supposedly allows the wind through, but it's definitely not that great and is probably the reason for panels snapping. Caravan life is great. It's either been Baltic or lashing down. We want to get cracking, but the weather is certainly not in our favour.

I think they just said "Oi scrote, make some more muck". There were no pleasantries back then, when I was 17

Conventional floor build up. Eg, screed on top of insulation.

I didn't know whether the detailed drawings from the manufacturer would suffice. Eg, Velfac provide the below, so I suspect Norrsken do to? https://products-commercial.velfac.co.uk/products/18760/18789/19843/

I think I need to get on and get details finalised, but I didn't want to get too specific now regarding floor finishes. I've decided to cancel the idea of a power floated floor. Nice idea, but just too much chance of it looking xxxx or going badly wrong.

When we had our technical drawings done for building regulations submission, we hadn't finalised the sliding patio doors and windows, but we knew the sizes. So now, we are thinking about getting started, I've now got loads of questions. 1) Footing details (already discussed this on BH) 2) Level threshold detail, but the build up detail is dependent on the door frame manufacturer Do most people give their tech architect all this information upfront, to enable the associated junction details to be created?

As someone who laboured when they were young and understands that just shovelling sand and cement into a mixer is not conducive to creating a uniform mortar colour, I'll make sure that they grade the sand and cement to ensure we don't get that.

We have had our material palette signed off and I'm curious as to how you'd achieve the mortar look below. I'm conscious that it's not going to be the cheapest. Are we talking simply white cement and a pale sand, or is there a lime constituent in there too?

Thanks. Windows and doors along with brickwork are areas that I'd rather get right, even if that means cutting back on the interior finishing. They are difficult and expensive to change once you have built the shell.

I have had quotes from both Norrsken for triple glazed alu clad sliders and also Origin for aluminium double glazed sliders. The Origins are obviously cheaper than the Norrsken offering, but I'm trying to understand whether in the grand scheme of things, the 4k difference for the two 4.4 * 2.2m and 2.4 * 2.2m sliders is worth swallowing. I'm concerned that large double glazed patio doors might be cold.

It was actually New Years Eve day, but I do wish I was more brazen about getting cracking on and not worrying about the neighbours.

The carb was left on the manufacturer's settings. The old carb is long gone.

I used my husqvarna stone saw yesterday and noticed that it was occasionally popping and I could see flames coming out the muffler. I replaced the rings and fitted a new genuine carburettor at the same time. Does anyone know what might be the issue or how to diagnose it?

I completely agree it would be simpler, but I really don't want to submit another VOC application.

I enlisted an SE 'Barrat Associates' online job. I am most likely to blame, they were quick and cheap. I sent across the building control drawings to them and got back nothing more than the structural calcs for the steels. I wasn't sure what to ask for, so I said I want full calcs for the drawings. These were submitted to building control and they signed the drawings off.

Ok. I will see if I can find another SE who is local to us.

The technical architect didn't provide details and the SE was as much use as a chocolate teapot

The attached single storey garage of our house has a finished floor level 450mm higher than that of the house and I am trying to work out how best to do the footings. My original idea was to simply dig the footings of the garage to the same depth as that of the house and then just have an additional two course of blocks. I mentioned this to a builder and he said that nobody will want to be in the trench to do the blockwork and instead I should just pour an additional 450mm of concrete. So I am a bit confused as to how to proceed. I have read on the NHBC guide about stepped footings, but not sure how this works with the adjoining cavity wall that is shared between the garage and the house (see below)

In the end I went with Sany SY16C and it arrives Thursday. I am still trying to muster up the courage to tell the other half 😂 she just doesn't understand! I have been thinking about all of the jobs that I will need a small machine for to build the house and it's loads. I currently have a skip which is due to be returned soon, and there is a pile of wood and a tree stump. No chance I can lift it in by hand. Even though the hire of a 3 ton machine was only £280/week, by the time I factored in the £55 charge each way for delivery and collection and the VAT. You are suddenly at £500 for a weeks hire. I am also contemplating a one ton dumper, but I think I may wait before having that conversation.