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Ferdinand

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Everything posted by Ferdinand

  1. Alexa is talking to me. Correct evaluation on the woofer. Abba generally OK. Black Dyke Mills Brass Band a little bit missing the Eb Bass, or it is resonating the Alexa-pod. I think I need more bandwidth ? . OK next task. Hoover out the coffee grinder. (I wonder what I can plug into the 3.5 audio jack. Will it take the "behind the desk" woofer I still have from my 1997 Apricot Multimedia PC?) (And can I ask it to call itself Alex and give me a man's voice? No. Sexists.) F
  2. Can it snoop WiFi traffic too? Will it know I am reading your blog ?. ? She might be having a fit because I am refusing the Location Services request - though if they are joined up they know where it was delivered.
  3. In that recording they sound as if they need coffee ... of which I have just learnt from my neighbour how to make Middle Eastern.
  4. If I get it to talk to my internet....
  5. Well it's arrived, and is the same size as a tin of filter coffee. And it seems Jeff Bezos thinks that a 3" speaker is a woofer. Presumably the chap is an enthusiast for Yorkshire Terriers. Will report back. As it happens I have to hoover out the coffee grinder this evening so I'll do it to the Java Jive played by Alexa. A slice of onion?
  6. I would use one colour - probably some sort of lightish grey that you can get more of later. My bathroom man said that they normally use Jasmine. Better than white imo. If you use something really light you apparently need to use a Tile Grout Protector. Houzz says you need to get a "Grout Swatch" to help you work it out. https://www.houzz.com/magazine/what-grout-color-should-you-choose-for-your-tile-stsetivw-vs~89929909 (But if you were OCD *before* you read that article...)
  7. Not totally sure about that, as it may cut both ways. eg we have on of the highest minimum wages in Europe which is about to go up in April by another 6.2%. Though that varies depending on currencies. I'm not convinced that these will be loosened. F
  8. Looking good.
  9. Listening to the radio this morning, a prominent Construction Policymaker was talking about the cost of making houses flood-proof or resilient. It seems to involve things like heating gubbins in the roof etc, and the cost seemed to be adding a putative 10%. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is needed, or thoughts on the cost? (Remembering the scary numbers sometimes quoted about the cost over par of passive.) Ferdiinand
  10. You need to check how far it needs to project wrt the angle of the sun in your location at the time of year of interest. I have one with I think an approx 1m projection at a height of maybe 2.6-2.7m, and it is not quite enough for all occasions, but it was done in 1970 so I forgive them not doing it online in the sun simulator. This photo shows the sun angle at one point. The overhang faces due south. Check what you need, or at least what you will get for x mm cantilever at y height. 0.5m is unlikely to be enough, and I would be guestimating 1-1.5m may be necessary.
  11. Splitting the title is not that expensive. Though I am not sure of the PP implications. F
  12. These days, electric ones do a good imitation. Or there are those things that hang on the wall.
  13. As it happens, things are slowly moving forward. The big electric recliners went on Sunday, the cleaner is briefed to focus on the conservatory tomorrow, and the Ikea IVAR prototype structure will be going up on Wednesday. Then I can start thinking about seed trays. I have put a couple of Guy Rogers teak 1960s chairs back in the lounge and the room seems twice as large; I will have to tell 21C people to go on a diet to fit. I am missing the day bed, which is still in the old master bedroom. F
  14. But he is only shrinking it slightly. I think. 40% or so. ? Diet? It's very spacious. I think your suggestion makes sense because it gives you a second closed off usable room downstairs. I am not sure about the huge long bench - who will use that? Might a mix involving biggish storage or party sleeping alcoves (which are interchangeable) be a more useful mix? Or could you give another 500mm to the rooms (if there is no head height issue on the bench side of the landing). Might that second void waft all your cooking sausages smells upstairs? Depends crucially on your extractor setup. If you end up taking that out, then I think a bit of juggling may get you a 4th bedroom / hobby room. I also wonder whether the bite out of the corner of the Master for the landing could be squared off, to put that space in the master suite. Would increase utility of the space upstairs, though it may not be strictly needed for the master. Ferdinand
  15. Welcome. Looks like an interesting project. Ferdinand
  16. Can't you get a narrower bath, or has she specified width ? My new bath is 700mm wide overall and fine for me. Is this a dead letter now?
  17. I would get a sucker-on-with-screw-or-lever one and put it on the shower screen. This is one that has been in a tenanted property for a couple of years so it may be @pocster-proof if he doesn't climb on it. ? eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01I98PWD4/ First review sounds just like our hero: Ferdinand
  18. It may be that when we talked about this before (may have been another similar plan for someone else), I may have said for ultimate efficiency get rid of the entire entrance hall and move the front door - though it does give a spectacular route in. I think now I would just ask whether you need a porch or something to protect from the howling gales of Scotland? Ferdinand
  19. Fine and cheers - but always better to say it just in case ? .
  20. Agree with the idea, but I don't think 900 between units and island is enough. Others may come up with their experiences. I think you want 1000-1200. Mine is 1100mm, and personally I would prefer 1200. You may get away with 1m. Once you have a proposed layout and distances, I think I would suggest a mockup or chalk on the floor and 90 minutes role playing. Ferdinand
  21. I wonder if you are going to be seriously short of cupboard space in the kitchen. And I don't think "we have a larder and the huge utility" is necessarily an answer. It is about having things arranged in functional groups so as you do each separate type of activity it is efficient (washing near pulley and chute and washer / dryer, cooking near crocks near food near washing near fridge near cutlery near pans). I can only count about 5-6 unencumbered under worktop units and 3 wardrobe unit spaces. That feels too few to me - though these things are very personal. Even ignoring the stuff that probably goes in the utility and larder, I have nearly double that - though I have things like my decent glasses in the kitchen, whilst others would have those in a cupboard in the lounge. I suggest a unit space by unit space exploration of where you will put everything, including all your appliances. Ferdinand
  22. Sticks out a mile. Snooker room and beer ? .
  23. "Auxiliary" spaces. Meaning spaces where you do not "live" - non-habitable or circulation or service spaces.
  24. I pretty much agree with @Moonshine, but I think we may have had the "auxiliary spaces" conversation previously, and you had reasons to stick to your guns so I'll leave that alone. So: 1 - Is there enough space to walk between the breakfast bar and the living area. That all looks everso tight. Suspect you may be better stealing say 800-1000mm space from the snug and spare bed by moving the stove etc (which would poleaxe my proposal in 3), as you spend more time in the living area. 2 - Ideally make sure that either the kitchen sink or the utility sink is large enough to take the big top pieces from the range cooker, an oven shelf, and a griddle plate, flat. 3 - I think the study spare bedroom would benefit from having the ensuite smaller and a wardrobe in the spare space, then turn the big wardrobe the other side into a hideable study area ie perhaps a pair of bifold wardrobe doors and a built in desk etc. Then combining the two uses is far neater, and you can just shut the study away - locked if necessary. F
  25. I would replace it with a simple plank pattern UPVC door in rosewood or dark brown colour, especially if there is no lobby etc. That's what I did with my cottage door. Cost around £500-600 I'm guestimating. Not sure what your sale plans are, but a new door would be knocked off the offer in all likelihood. Ferdinand
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