Ferdinand

Trying here first is a good idea too - plenty of us have reasonable experiecnce, and there are also a few specialists.

You may get different asnwers for Planning and eg Estate Agent purposes.

Presumably having a 110m pipe might facilitate providing somewhere to pee should you drink it all in the shed...

You could put one of those viewing telescopes like Plymouth Hoe or Parliament Hill on the top so you can see them so far away. ? (Won't get PP for that).

Yep. Neighbour should be irrelevant in this afaics.

I think they have submitted under the extended PD rules, which requires the Council to do a simpler "auto-approve if no objections" process, then an 'amenity evaluation' if anyone objects. This Council seems to have not done a thorough (or perhaps any) amenity evaluation. (Assuming law in England; not sure NISW are on this extended PD).

Just added a bit more to my first post. This should be a simple application unless you have missed telling us something - close to side boundaries etc. May be worth getting a Planning Consultant to frame your Full PP application, just to make sure you dot i's and cross t's. You could supply all the material and get them to top and tail it. Would cost £100-250 extra for say half a day or a bit more (guestimating).

I would say you have 3 options to get this done. 1 - Reduce it to the size that is permitted Development. 2 - Persuade the neighbour. 3 - Go for full PP then if necessary Appeal if you think there are no relevant planning objections (I don't think there are based on what you have said) I would not worry about 2 and go for one of the others. As an aside you could take the Council through the complaints process (will take a lot of work and time and not get it built), or make them obey the law and do an evaluation of amenity before making a decision (talk to your local Councillor about them not following the process?). It may help to FOI for the evaluation using the bit of policy or law that requires it first. F

You are entitled to unload on a Right of Way, but not obstruct it. That is what you probably have over his drive (and he, yours). See https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14611 If N starts playing silly-buggers with parking their car, or elephant if they have one, to obstruct your deliveries, remember that he is not allowed to obstruct *your* RoW. F

Welcome.

Ooooh my poor head.

No probs. Just probing the potential gaps in the OP. Have spent too much time providing too many not quite the right answers to slightly the wrong questions :-). In this case pointing out a possible circumstance. Wotsit Thingamabob and his Unknown Unknowns have a lot to answer for. (*) F xx * would remember but the 12 bottles from Laithwaites arrived today and they are now minus 2/3 of a bottle of rather nice rather potent red. And there is nobody here except me and the paperwork. The paperwork is now slightly tipsy. Allegedly. Anyway, there are two of them so they must be.

I'm just beginning to think about a substantial (ish) project at my real home for 1-2 years time, which may also involve a certain amount of garden remodelling. That would be a rearrangement of rooms and a loggia / car port across the front, new gates and a few other bits. I am exploring some of the pros and cons of a secondhand Total Station. This is not something I know that much about, though I have helped with surveys in the past - holding the staff for dad etc, or done small ones and the trig calculations, and am used to commissioning them. 1 - Is it Leica Leica Leica, or are there credible alternatives? 2 - If I want one which does GPS so can be used by one person, what budget am I looking at for something that will last for say 5-10 years? (All very approximately) Cheers Ferdinand

If you are on an Outline PP you can extend the deadline by making an application for Detailed.

Welcome. We like photos. 4 months? So 4 months too late for Grand Designs ?.

My clematis trellis was decaying, so I added a supplementary frame like a 2m post and rail horse fence, and it is still standing a few years later.

Some of it ... ???

Welcome. Hmm. If you are out of your depth you: a) Learn to swim b) Get some flotation device c) Return to the shallow end or d) er .. oggle cockle oggle cockle oggle cockle... (He said helpfully ?.) Ferdinand

I asked this a year ago, and @SteamyTea kindly supplied the calculation method for heat loss of warm air in continually running trickle-fans. It turned out that for me my ufh heating system and level of heat demand is such that it tipped it over into making the heating system insufficient, so I switched my fans back to traditional "one with the lights in the bathroom and a 20 minute timer afterwards". It is a bungalow to dormer bungalow self build project doe by the previous occupier - better than regs when done but insufficient insulation for this latest ventilation intervention. You could switch your Dmev fans for trickle/boost HR units which would recover 80-90% of the heat lost. Here: The numbers were approx £25-30 per year on the gas heating bill for each DMev fan running at 6 l/s. But you need to read the thread. And since mine is a recent comprehensive (3 walls and a hole in the ground) self-build reno, it *should* be reasonably airtight. In other circs the loss of heat through wall leakage etc could be more than the fans. If you really wanted to you could also calculate the extra cost to heat up the extra water vapour in the more humid air ?. For me comfort was the determinant rather than the extra charge as I was nursing my mum (who passed away last November), and I wanted the house as warm as possible. I may reevaluate in due course. I have at least one where I could install a Heat Recovery unit, whilst the other is in the ceiling of bathroom 2. And I agree with Tony that working on improving airtightness is important - I always make my tradesman pay real attention to detail. Ferdinand

Useful book: https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-find-buy-building-plot/dp/1911346148/ The best way to mitigate risk is to buy one that already exists or has the required PP. You can come off alright via other means, but you are gambling with risk and potentially playing the game of Planning Poker.

On the plus side it closes off a financial black hole for council tax payers in Nottingham.

You need to work out what they require. For ground investigations, there is Phase I and Phase II. I is desk based and scoping, on the basis of which you may have to do II which is drilling test holes and maybe testing for methane etc. I will be hundreds. II will be thousands. Ferdinand

Welcome. I did this piece some time ago about easy steps. I also did this thread on another site about my standard Buy to let reno, which is usually targeted at reducing energy bills by 50% or so for new tenants. It really needs a moderate edit and posting on my blog here. https://www.propertytribes.com/understanding-epc-certificates-t-127645323.html Personally I would think carefully about 1960s due to asbestos issues, or check carefully. HTH. F

I'd do it with gravel or even river pebbles, so it can be replaced next time and will stay drained. Unless you are desperate for the path width. You could also do some planting there. The other use I have made of a gap like that is to put all the spare bricks I have left from the build. So they are out of the way but available for the next project.

Welcome. Most has already been said. I think the call I would give would be to consider where you find a job, and target potential areas partly around that. The impression I have is that Scotland is substantially easier for *doing* self-build. On the planning point, that is in your control because you can choose to make your house well within policy or walking the lines. If you walk the lines and try and do something difficult your chances of success will be lower. Perhaps consider a series of self-builds, maybe with the first being in the garden of your first house you buy based on the size of the garden; that could give you your first plot for say 15k to 30k. For the record, people who don't like the North are wrong ?.