saveasteading

Road partial closure, if that applies, is the worst case for cost. Full closure is much cheaper. That sounds like a safe estimate. I too have often had fruitful discussions , usually requiring homework....with which BH can help: as previous messages... tell us more. Best not disclose who the quotation is from. If it is a quotation rather than estimate then they have to be on the safe side, because they get so many requests, but will then usually engage with more info.

What ground do you have? A 2 to 3 tonner can struggle or be totally ineffective with, for examples, heavy clay, chalk, dense gravel.

Agreed and very easy to resolve. I suggest a plastic chamder and cover, so you can easily get an arm in and to the bottom. Also the possible benefit of allowing rodding in both directions. Depending what's in it, this could be in manhole style with a profiled base, or as a catchpit. Apologies that I have not read back. If there is any reason that you cannot have a chamber there, then you could possibly fiddle that through using pairs of 45° bends or less, or adjustable bends. But there must be a constant fall. If you include a rodding unit then it could all be in 6 or more parts. This gives you a bit more wiggle (adjustment) too.

The only problem I can recall in many km of drains is with connectors from one supplier. They were a pain to fit, but they then worked and it saved a lot of money. My default is to use a smaller merchant and likely a brand that is not major, but the quality is good.

The tiles under the units are the easy ones anyway.

My admirable small grounworker contractors over the years are my guide. They tended to have a middle aged tracked kubota or similar. They break down or lose tracks regularly, and often the repair cost is unviable... then they get abandoned until given away. Owning one has the advantage of instant availability, and saving time, hire cost and transport. Owning on one's own plot removes the HSE overview on commercial sites, and transport. BUT. Breakdowns as above. It very often isn't the right machine...too small, needs tracks, not performing. I suggest a long chat with the managers at local hire companies. The smaller ones especially. They might have a machine nearing selling on stage which could sit with you instead of in their yard. Pay by the clock plus a monthly. They maintain. You also agree a discount on other hire equipment but promise (and keep to it) not to hire from elsewhere. OR they sell you it but provide some guarantee, at least on major issues. They might say no but have another suggestion. They will probably like you, the project, the enthusiasm, and the 2 years of hire coming. I'd enjoy sitting with you in that chat. £5k mentioned above, plus maintenance? How far will that go in hire cost?

They meaning Oso ? For clarity.

To be completely fair I should have added that some consultants, real Professionals capital P, relish information and ideas and practical input on construction and cost from clients and contractors. I recall multidisciplinary design-and-build projects where we effectively won a project in that meeting. Architect, Civil Engineer, QS, electrician, plumber and contractor (design managers and construction manager). What a great buzz and commitment from all parties.... Great for Client value too, but the other 3 contractors were wasting their time for the next few weeks to tender. Sorry, wandering off there... Teamwork and enthusiasm, and the ruthlessness to dismiss non team-players is my point. BH offers some of this.

Seriously, that was a very useful discipline in teaching the power of ten and having an understanding of numbers being big or small. Also in significant figures when using one of these new calculator thingies.

My pitch on this. How much Risk and hands-on? If you project manage and don't have a main contractor, and do some of the work, then it is self build. The degree varies from there of course. 100% means no contractor, but help from friends and family. Next level includes labourers or semi skilled workers ... . But it's all your responsibility. From there down to 10%. A nonsense figure of course. Several trades contractors, some diy. We will all have our own views on this according to skills and experience.

Bravo. Good plan. Some 'experts' ( mostly in these recently created specialities) are lacking but must have known how to pass the exam. Others are technically good but don't consider options or cost. I hate it most when they write in a supervisory role for themselves. Mostly I have encountered these at planning stage. Some I submitted very detailed counter-arguments and succeeded. Archaeology; planting; newts; Breeam; come to mind. On one of those I even achieved a certificate without much study. The experts back down if the argument is strong.

It's easy to fit (just some ducting and a rainproof inlet, and works very well and efficiently. Even if it wasn't the rule, I would now choose to do it.

I have found that, by applying 'light oak' stain to softwood cladding, it remains much the same colour, perhaps a bit yellower. It goes on as barely visible so seems expensive at the time but the benefit is over the years as it does not grey. Either apply before fixing or allow shrinkage first, as tongues or edges may show when they grey.

Interested to know why you volunteered.

That phrase may stay in my mind.

OK I have misunderstood and thought it was new.

I mean the single brick on edge and simple (minimal)? contact of purlin to brick. Any tiny movement will rock that brick. All I'd suggest is 2 bricks instead of one, laid flat, and a timber sole plate.

Gasp. They built that brick to support the roof?

Intumescent paint can go on galvanising. The calculations are indeed complex, but not so for plasterboard. If it is weather prone then cement board is an option. If it is exposed to a potential fire protect it.

That's right. More flexible and a better seal. Clay is for veey heavy loads and for nasty chemicals from factories (though I've seen rotted ones). You've come to the right place if you're picking up such strange and erroneous information. Next.... two 45 ° turns isn't right. You would generally get away with it if only rainwater but it needs to be roddable for foul. So a rodding point and 90° turn is needed. Or 2 at 45°. Plastic is normal for these too. When you have measured, post a sketch. Water hardness is not relevant. Next tconsider aluminium gutters. In this situation plastic is not best, but cast iron is expensive and rusts, plus is low capacity. There is copper effect available in aluminium.

Excellent. Hadn't thought of that. Maybe some armour removed too? I've just looked again and the ducting is plastic and quite flexible. I will be doing this in open air prior to positioning it, so no nasty bends to cause friction.

I have some salvaged steel ducting to encase the cable for a section above ground. In hindsight i should have kept the cabling in it as a drawcord. how do I get a flattish, stiff swa cable through? I have electrician's rods. So I'm thinking pull cord through, then cable..... but how do I grasp the cable? I've seen some harness things but £20+ seems wrong so is maybe not the thing.

Eg it might have picked up the discussion on here: where else does this level of expertise on concrete slab dimples exist?

No it won't. If i am following this fully, they are proposing adding strength after the event. That does not return the bow to horizontal.

It's fair enough for the building inspector to want a formal proposal. Your drawing shows intumescent paint, which you can't use, so your designer or another competent person needs to confirm it is now to be pb, including the spec and thickness. Some bco's will be sufficiently trained in the fire reg's to be allowed to advise*, so it's worth just talking to them first. *their insurers will be very wary of fire risk and responsibility.