saveasteading

Agreed, it isn't really a pergola but a structure for solar panels.

16 years ago what was the required floor U value? I might have an old manual, somewhere. I'm going to guess at the equivalent of 75mm pir. But putting none in the floor and more elsewhere was more common then. I agree with the warm feet principle and that 20mm of pir (twice as good as eps, might be worthwhile. Do Wunda do a pir version? BUT on balance you'll lose a lot of energy down to the void, so I'm thinking live with it especially if the boiler is gas. And put 300mm of fg in the loft.

Is it an ancient field hedge or a domestic one? if agricultural then there is usually a fence as well, or the remnants of one, or of a gate. Logically though, if that was planted as a field boundary within a farm, then the centre would be the boundary. If planted as demarcation of two farms then there would be a fence first, of marker posts and then planting on the planter's side, but then swallowing the fence up. So 200mm off centre?. Middle of hedge seems about right whatever. Whatever, your designer should have kept 1m min away from it to avoid complexities. Decide what you want then tell them to sort it.

'We' meaning a business with insurance? Yes agreed that deadweight will work too. Presumably you didn't use the cheap pergolas which form an arch and support a honeysuckle at most. I've seen skinny things made with cheap cedar. Did you build them from 3 x 2 / 4x2 tanalised? That is the sort of structure this needs in a gale. I'm not against it, just urging caution and research.

That looks like chalk so should drain ok. And gravel, especially that much, would probably be resistant enough to uplift. Any risk would only be when the tank is empty, so that could be kept to the end of summer.

A picture saves 999 words?

Mine hasn't either then.

That might take off on the wind. It will need a substantial pergola, with strong connections throughout and fixed down hard to a foundation. The sort of pergola you see in a garden centre is not made for this use. The solar panels at that angle will create a wing effect and could all end up next door. Would this be diy or a specialist package?

I hadn't heard of this product so thanks @Nickfromwales. BUT I can't see any mention of it used in supporting a post, or of its bearing capacity so I doubt this is suitable for that They say Structural a lot, but without numbers. They also stay quiet about the insulation numbers. If that post is simply holding the side of a wall or window then OK, but not to take a vertical load without some proof. OK found it. 7,000 kPa at 10% compression...... but we wouldn't want it compressing under a post and it is made of foam, however dense. No mention of the strength before compression which again suggests it is for light structural use where the forces are small. That is 7,000 kN/m2 or 1/3 of concrete strength so quite impressive... so not suitable for heavy structures. And the insulation level is OK too considering the density. Marmox is a bit better. Back to the question, even though it has probably all been built by now. Forget about the base to concrete. Stuff the open web with PIR, then board over as above.

Contrary to the rule of thumb, forces don't dissipate at 45°, so a narrow footing might be OK but needs assessment. Re the depth... if you keep the old walls they will be deemed OK. If you are building new walls then the bco will likely want the foundations to be assessed by an SE. So a trial hole for depth and soil type.

That should show any cracking. I wonder if there is any way these internal wall were added later, and built on the floor slab. That may not be insured. When you brief the SE be sure to tell them this is re an insurance claim. If the SE thinks the problem is not the original foundations then you may wish to drop the claim and minimise his report and fee. That wouldn't resolve the original issue of course, but that can follow.

I've read some statements that are either total guff or a wind-up as you suggest. Many are clearly generic. My test would be The applicant loves nature especially birdies and bunnies and likes pretty trees too. That might creep through.

Your council should have a policy statement on what they mean. But generally, bat boxes etc are a plus, but only small. Hedges are good though, You need to think about ponds, copses, meadows. Such that this plot is genuinely better for nature than it is now. Where does your rainwater go? A soakaway satisfies building reg's but doesn't aid nature so have a pond. Barrels first, overflowing to a designed pond. Your meadow needs a strategy too. Look into it. You're right that you could abandon it all in future, but you won't and at least it is possible to keep it with pride. Search the LA planning website for similar projects. The diversity statements will be full of waffle but the fundamentals will apply.

I've got one that looks the same. Must be 25 years old, and is primitive. 25 years ago we expected smoke. The door seals are a likely source of smoke, but are easily changed. The air adjusters are not sealed, and I don't think can be.

How big are the trees? I think the ground is usually clay round your way but you or someone else local may know. Big trees on clay can be a problem. This sounds like subsidence from trees sucking water from clay ground and the hot summer combined, which shrinks the clay. But it's odd that external walls are not affected. Maybe they are but you can't see it. Are they brick? I'm pretty sure this is not because the slab has failed, so insurance should cover it. You must get this looked at by an SE.

Because it would resist heat from rising into the room. Like putting a blanket over a radiator. If the pipes are fixed down to an uninsulated slab then it would send heat the wrong way. It would still offer some insulation to the room for whatever heat was there. So rule it out for any UFH use, which is the most common use for a thin screed. I admit to not having looked past the first page of the product but that gives all the wrong vibes so I expect the rest to be vague at best. Now let's guess. If concrete costs £120/m3, and pumped screed costs $150/m3. Is polystyrene cheaper than aggregate by volume? About the same I think. so there should be no extra cost for this product....let's see.

Can we see photos of the walls where the damage is? Do you think the walls are loadbearing (supporting upstairs rooms) ? Were they there when you moved in? Generally 100 years ago it would be brick construction on concrete trench footings. and would have moved before now if it was going to. Also for the internal walls to subside but not the externals is unusual. Any big trees nearby? Does the floor appear to have moved?

That's the answer. sound doesn't go round corners unless bouncing repeatedly. Make a plenum of plywood at the entrance to your ducting, with your maze within it, and line it with insulating board (rockwool sort of thing. or carpet_ and that should sort it. Keep it bigger than the duct and that won't reduce airflow either.

Celcon blocks are 0.22. so its much better than that.

I have a fleet of Einhell battery tools (started as a prize from Wickes) . Pleased with it all although sometimes I need heavier duty mains tools too. So I just got a leaf blower to add to the fleet. i'm very impressed with it. But the reason for posting is that for sales of this and other products until 12th??? Einhell will send a battery and charger later IF you claim it in time. I have 5 batteries, and the small, lighter, ones don't last so long, so another is a bonus. you'd have to hurry, and I'd check the small print first from the vendor and from einhell in case there are exclusions.

It would have to be very grotty indeed. PIR will follow the dips and compress over lumps. then the top screed takes it to level. My best use seems to be simply for a new surface in a workshop being converted to a workshop. Upgrade everything by whatever means to scrape the U value required.

ahhh. Not rocket science then, and at end of life this is contaminated concrete, and the eps can't be recovered. I don't know the mix, but guessing 20% eps. so a 100mm pour of this would have the same amount of eps as a 20mm board below 80mm screed. But the board would work better as it is continuous. Doesn't begin to compare favourably with the typical 100mm pir with a screed over. My hunch says this is a gimmick or of very limited use. Marketing will say otherwise. I'm trying to think of a good use. Upgrading a grotty existing slab in a workshop or office perhaps, where headroom and budget are limited. and where a slightly insulated floor rather than none is of some value. Just seen @Nickfromwales further comments. It is world leading insulation only for concrete. from the density it is half eps. So 50mm eps with 50mm screed above would be better insulation at .. what cost?

what is the cost? Obv it isn't appropriate for encasing UFH pipes. below it, PIR is presumably cheaper. If the existing floor is rough then maybe use this.

No I only meant to put about 20mm stuck over the end of the beam. Glue or screw. The cavity remains, and the small amount of restriction shouldn't matter. Probably best to fix small pieces into the recesses at either side of the beam then another over the face. Or carving a shape out of a thicker piece would be tidy. What thickness is Spacetherm? I think of it being in a roll and about 8mm thick but could be misremembering I'd paint bitumen over the exposed steel first just because you can and its something else to be certain of.

For which add to cost but have more certainty. Total diy to turnkey must be 40% or so dearer. At that cost level it may not be worth any more than it cost, so needs some other benefit. That is therefore your biggest decision.