saveasteading

If that is your decision, then show the groundworker diagram 9 and clauses 2.19 and 2.20 of document H. Any change of gradient to have an access point. They have none Bends as large a radius as possible. They have tight bends. Unfortunately I can't screen grab it, but here is the link https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf

The reason i asked was to see if it is pouring or dribbling in. Seems the latter. assuming you are not going to do a rebuild., how about a pragmatic improvement. 1. drain against outside wall , as above, and make sure it goes away somewhere else. 2. seal the wall on the inside , best you can, accepting it will mostly pop off again. dry wall, bitumen paint joints, then whole wall. 3. screed floor to fall to a side or corner, and leave channel in it. Cut out a sump to catch the water. 4. pump out occasionally or automatically

The drawing is to scale, so is prob fine to proceed at that, until further notice. For your comfort, drop him an email that he has omitted that dimension, scales x and you are working to that, and please advise urgently if otherwise.

I believe the regs have been simplified...although I am not about to look up the old books. There was once a rule, or at least understanding, that there was a maximum gradient to prevent separation as described. That of course does not apply to vertical stacks as obv it all just falls together. Also it is a fact that there can be separation, but it may now be recognised that another train will soon be along to give it a shove. Diagram 9 stops at gradient 1:10, so it could be argued that this is the maximum. AND it used to be that every change of direction, horizontal or vertical, required an access chamber. That has been dropped. Well, not dropped exactly: it now says 'as straight as practicable, so that does leave it up to the inspector. So be happy that he is ok with it , as that is not as straight as it could have been. If the groundworkers are too old to remember these old rules then they aren't really very old at all, or were not paying attention. In reality, your arrangement with the steep section, rather than a simple grade, will work fine. Did you say why they didn't do a constant grade? I tell BCO if I disagree: Some are happy to agree when they hear the argument or see the proof. Some get very angry indeed to be shown to be wrong, and then it is time to demand someone else, usually younger. BUT to their credit they come across some awful work, where the builder does not care or understand the theory. Perhaps they have to assume we are all like that until proven otherwise. Yes, this is management, even teamwork, and has the least chance of causing disagreements. The BCO is not a designer, and neither, usually, is your groundworker.

So the number is missing. A minor thing. Ask. If you ask politely it will probably be confirmed as 450 or 500, and 1m below ground. There is a '2000' adjacent, but out of context I don't know what for.

got it.

I didn't know these existed, and it hurt my head for a while. I have a similar situation, but with normal hinges, and the gate is made to just miss the slope. That then leaves a space for a small dog or child when shut. These hinges would have been ideal. Agreed re 2 parts: one to suit the normal vehicle and the other bolted in place, that can open for wide vehicles. They do settle differentially but it only takes a turn of the nut on the long top bolt to adjust it either way. I am confident that oak is traded between the South East and the 'wild West' and can come on the next wagon train.

Drawing is not loading for me.

Lots of good advice above. Never hire Heras except for an event. The cost equates to buying in about 4 months, then they charge for collection and damage. Buying, will not be 'heras' but a cheaper manufacturer. The quality varies, esp at welds, but that doesn't matter in your own property. then, as you have found, there is demand for second-hand. Moling is a few hundred pounds when you can accept a wobbly line, as you can. The technologies vary: some send a probe down, along and up. Others need a pit at each end and thrust a pipe through, like a bore hole. So shop around. Once there, maybe worth moling all the way. If you will be on site and in control, then perhaps they will accept a simpler fence. In a way heras is not the best for the tree, as a builder can easily move it 'out of the way', then dig up roots and compress the ground, then put it back again. The standard method used to be chestnut pale and that might be acceptable. Well done for respecting the trees, and I'm sure they will repay you. fyi, I understand from various arboriculturalists that the micro-roots at the surface are more important than the big ones; that a single trench can cause huge damage, perhaps 1/3, which is enough to kill a tree, and compression of the earth is as bad as cutting the surface roots. The arbori etc that work in the private sector are more likely to accept the removal of a tree than the LA officers. 'it is just a tree....cut it down but plant some more'.

I thought the tank was so that a test of quality could be taken, and so that should apply to both. The liquid after a treatment tank is going to be much better quality than from a septic tank. However, I can see that will matter even more if discharging to water course. OR, can I use a leach field for a treatment tank, instead of a soakaway, and avoid the test chamber? That will surely be the best of all, in dealing with any occasional overload.

Green Home Grant scheme? Rather than split this discussion, I will start a new thread.

Where does the water go from inside the garage? I mean is it flowing in and out, or just in and stabilises?

The High Street under water again?

There are some that have a big wheel sploshing round. Most just have an air pump, like in a goldfish tank, to keep the contents moving and break the surface. if there is any noise it will likely be a buzz from a loose support.. Have used Marsh Industries in the past, because they are real and will speak to you. I especially liked that their tanks are shallow. This makes it very much easier and safer to install, without so much worry of hole collapse. I see that hydroclear now does shallow ones too, also at around £2,000. they include a telescopic shaft to the cover which i will be looking into. Septic tank maybe £700 cheaper? Does anybody know if a septic tank requires an outlet inspection chamber, as for treatment tank? Can't see why it should not.

The rules re septic tank discharge are rightly more onerous, but there is no reason why the further digestion should not occur in the drainage beds, which are larger anyway. However my own preference is to use a more sophisticated treatment tank. It is basically a septic tank with more chambers and bubbles. They are not that much more expensive if you shop around. Of course there is the running cost of electricity, but against that, there is much better digestion and less frequent need to de-sludge. And 20% less soakaway to build, and reduced risk of problems if the tank gets heavy use at any time.

Perhaps veering into a different subject but...new v old surveying. Modern equipment and methods are very easy and precise. So on this post it would be feasible to get a land surveyor with a fancy machine to mark your points out for half a day's pay...£300. You should be in attendance for banging posts and any decisions. But it is much more fun and satisfying to do it yourself, and in doing so you might also notice any quirks in the landscape, and change your mind where to put this new boundary. Walking the land and doing the work yourself is the way of understanding the possibilities and challenges of a project. Why do I resist modern methods? I don't, but they are so easy to use that they are used by some people who don't really understand what they are doing , and mistakes are missed. Expensive mistakes if not spotted. Everything needs to be looked over, just by eye and perhaps pacing to check for anomalies. For example here, if the satellite guided positions of 4 posts don't look straight. Laser levelling can go wrong too. The modern groundworker uses them, but doesn't know the principles of levelling. So if it is out of adjustment, and using long and short sightings, big errors can arise. Best way to check if a building is a rectangle? Measure the diagonals, by pacing then with a tape. Best way to pour trench concrete level? Not with a laser level and staff on the wet concrete imho. And most importantly, know your stride length. This costs nothing. As for water levels recommended above They are invaluable in confined spaces. I spent 2 uncomfortable days under a Boots pharma factory, but there was no other way with 4 ft headroom. For the cost, everyone should have one. This one is £10, and if you fix it to timbers, as the following pic, you have control .You can get a hydraulic oil version with digital readout of level difference for £400.

OK Interesting. I see that it is used in lighter construction than my experience. There seem to be a lot of 'like compriband' products available. I have had something similar delivered with windows, and it is certainly very handy for filling gaps. I suggest ensure that the product selected is suitable in UV and resistant to vermin, especially if out of sight, up high. Whether it is the right thing to do, I leave to those who know more about brick to soffit connection. Is this a standard procedure?

Gel so may sit there and dissolve it while you do something else. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/interior-cleaning/de-solv-it-sticky-stuff-remover-908285.html Have you thought of applying some adhesive tape to see if it picks the bits off?

Had the same issue with another big name supplier. They were very unhelpful. Also, they didn't stock that pump any longer either. I think they are out of that market now.

Choose one or more of the following. 1. Cut the hedge locally....you will know where when you start. For first approximation you can have someone hold it high. 2. Stand on a box or step to see over the hedge. 3. Buy rods that are in sections so can go higher.https://www.yorksurvey.co.uk/1m-point-jointed-pole-section-c2x23061987 4. Tie to a post (or in the hedge. 5. Make your own with very straight timber. OR buy a laser and be disappointed that you still need rods, and can't see the laser beam. Once you have done this retro method you will be in tune with the Egyptians, Romans and our own industrial revolution. Sometimes the old ways are best....these are still for sale so plenty people still using them. They look good on your site too, and are a good way to wind up the neighbours that a road is coming through..

I suggest just leave the remaining gunk to weather, then wd40 again. What is left may be a bit of glue combining with dirt that was already there, in the pits. If you wanted it to stick, it wouldn't. Summer heat, winter cold, long-term wet...it will give in at some stage. As glass is a liquid, it will all smooth out in a few hundred years,....if there is no real hurry.....self build always takes a while.

If this refers to preventing the drain from being crushed by foundations/differential movement, then polystyrene or packing foam. Can be wrapped around and tied, or laid as blocks to 4 sides. This is also how to pass a drain through a footing.

Ranging rods. either by pure line of sight or using a site level. Very easy to see, tall, have sharp points and appropriate diameter for projecting along the line. They are not expensive, can be found in sectional form (for storage and to make extra high) , and are handy for any marking out....so handy for other people that they keep disappearing.

While on sticky labels. I had trouble with Wickes pre-painted mdf skirtings. The factory (who I think provide multiple retailers) put the reference labels on the good sides. That refused to come off without taking the paint with it. Apart from slow, careful, and imperfect peeling, I didn't find a solution and had to touch up, which completely defeats the object. Any suggestions for another time?

Agreed wd40 is surprisingly good. Also try paraffin or white spirits. No abrasives.