saveasteading

Yes it would. But the landowners and developers wouldn't make so much. They have influence on government. Also, if every plot was twice the size, the suburbs would increase dramatically. My LA had a plan for avoiding sprawl, ( terraces and flats instead of semis) but they couldn't enforce it.

Try to stagger them high middle and low and not in horizontal lines. That way you are not putting g multiple screws in a single grain. I hope you tried jumping first, so that you can report back on the effect.

OK. That is too big a deal to risk. You'll need a council approved contractor for the x-over.

It varies dramatically by region. You really need to ask. My hunch is that the first job should be the dropped kerb, and there would be no argument. Quite expensive. An alternative might be preparing the driveway to the stage of hardcore, but you shouldn't drive over the existing kerb to do it. Plus they might think you are ignoring the kerb requirement. If I may ask, why haven't you proceeded with the project?

That is a very strong solution, and best if using full sister timbers, but its sometimes tricky to drill the horizontal holes through both pieces.

What's the going rate for nudura or similar £/m2? Very roughly will do. When you cut off the top, I assume the cut bit is waste (you cant turn it over etc?)

I noticed for the first time this morning, that when i turned on a certain hot tap, it was warm within seconds, then turned to lukewarm. It's a good 10m from the boiler, but i assume is close to the central heating pipe at some point hidden in the wall, This was all done in our refurb about 5 years ago, and I wasn't supervising much.

While I have you gurus' attention. If I was estimating the cost of solar to supply a 5 bed house, fixed to the roof facing SW, to run the ashps and car battery plus domestic, what lump sum should I allow? prob a specialist, not diy. £15k?

With very porous concrete it might be best to apply a wet mix first, to let it soak in and bind the top layer, then a thicker coat over it. It will give recommendations on the container.

I was nervous for you, but then found that youve been told it's low risk. I've had power jump about 10m from a cable to a crane mast. Followed shortly by a visit from the power company who had to reset a big fuse somewhere.

Some retired farmers collect old kit. Or maybe rural pubs, hotels or big houses want features. Do you have a local or community blog?

I say that you should take it seriously, for strength and deflection. That 20% depth reduction is taking away 1/3 of the strength, and it will be bouncy. As above, fix a timber or ply to the side, or both sides. Jump hard on it before and after and note the difference. There's no reason to skimp, so make it 600mm long , or even more. And use plenty of screws.

What about nailng a roofing batten vertically on the ridge line, tying a stringline at the ridge height and pulling to the eaves?

It's worth investing in a pair of manhole keys.

Flush toilet(s) with toilet paper, or more, in it and follow its journey.

We have installed the loop because the furthest room is a long way from the source. it will be pumped only when necessary, with a convenient switch. so it wont be on constantly. Surges do happen. we've a lovely shower but the thermostatic valve has far from an instant reaction. That seems clever. I need a think about that. I think that's the point. it isn't heating a useful space, just the void. The void could be a very large space, in volume or area. Could be the warmest space in the house. I haven't found anything about condensation on the cold, but that wouldn't apply if the hot were insulated. btw that was section 9. there is lots about heat sources before that.

It's only my observation of a few plumbers, but some insist on copper with joints, and I've never had a leak. And they have done the best job with regards to other issues. There must be a reason that they are not saying. I'm guessing that they have had a problem with the long pipe systems, and also that complex runs are tidier with rigid pipes. Conversely, the ones who used flexible pipes didn't have leaks but did have the odd other problem, perhaps related, perhaps not. I'm talking of dozens of projects.

All interesting. I think all hot pipes must be insulated. It used to be only outside the insulated envelope, but now it is everywhere, unless exposed pipes are intended to heat the room. I take people's points about the energy loss being small but that it depends on control. However, there is also comfort to be considered. When hot and cold are sitting together, they will average out and so the user of a shower may get surges of average temperatures that are uncomfortable, and perhaps even upsetting. Plus, people run a tap until it is the temperature they want, wasting water and energy, so if it is already warmer, then there is less waste. The NHBC document "technical guidance 8.1/35 is rather vague or ambiguous (to me) upon first and second readings. A paper on the subject by "Insulation and More" interprets it as saying we must "insulate almost everything....and buy it from us." 3. Hot Water Pipes Must be Insulated Whereas previous guidance focused mainly on space heating pipes, the new guidelines specifically mandate insulation on domestic hot water pipes. This includes hot water flow and return pipes, as well as primary circulation pipes connecting to hot water storage tanks. So i have now read 'the domestic building services compliance guide for Scotland (2022)' Section 9.3 is applicable. I think it is also saying to insulate all hot pipes wherever they are, except when it is exceptionally impracticable...(.and we designers should not allow it to be so) my italics Here is a bit of it: Direct hot water and heating pipework Pipework serving space heating and hot water systems should be insulated in all areas outside of the heated building envelope. In addition, pipes should be insulated in all voids within the building envelope and within spaces which will normally be heated, if there is a possibility that those spaces might be maintained at temperatures different to those maintained in other zones. The guiding principles are that control should be maximised and that heat loss from uninsulated pipes should only be permitted where the heat can be demonstrated as ‘always useful’. In a new system, all of the following new pipework should be insulated. a. Primary circulation pipes for heating circuits where they pass outside the heated living space, including where pipework passes into voids. b. All primary circulation pipes for domestic hot water. c. All pipes that are connected to hot water storage vessels, for at least 1 metre from the point at which they connect to the cylinder. d. All secondary circulation pipework that is kept hot by that circulation. Where a new boiler or hot water storage vessel is installed, or where existing systems are extended, new or existing pipes, ducts and vessels that are accessible or exposed as part of the work should be insulated as for new systems. Replacement hot water storage vessels should be insulated as for new systems. It is recognised that complete insulation will sometimes not be possible, where such services pass through or around structural building components, floor joists, for example, or where Domestic Building Services Compliance Guide for Scotland 2022 Edition 61 existing systems are wholly or partially retained as part of conversion works. In such cases, insulation should be fitted as for new systems as far as is reasonably practicable. Somewhere I read that similar rules will apply in England later this year, or next.

it is easy to insulate with a standard tap cover, plus you can box it in and stuff the box with insulation if you want. BUT i agree with @Conor that a hose is simple, and how often would you do it?

Part of the problem here, i think, is that the design is flawed in itself. The external blocks are porous and difficult to point.. Is there time to change to brick? Choosing an engineering brick perhaps, because they are waterproof and, inexpensive and the wall won't be visible. then the bricklaying will be a thin course, allowing better control of the mortar, and it can have waterproofing added to the mix. That plus dress a dpc up the inner timber to catch any drips, and lap the vcl over that. leave a gap to the timber. Fixing a vcl on the back of a timber isn't easy but is possible.

Either way, it won't empty the pipework that is in the floor unless you can get a siphon outside. I don't know if that matters.

A membrane will keep water out but allow the building to breathe. You also know that it is in place, whereas tanking might flake off over time.

Look at Wedi boards. Strong insulation boards. 6mm to 20mm thick.

I had to drill vent holes in a timber soffit for a change of use. I took the bco to the attic where he felt the existing severe draught (tiles, no membrane) and he agreed we forget the vents.

I can't think a sips specialist will be interested due to size and precision.