saveasteading

I vaguely remember being told that 8-10 turns of tape was enough, and that it worked in the distant past. Perhaps manufacturing tolerances have changed. Or perhaps the added bit of gunge was doing the job. But agreed, it takes 22 and still turns on, so I do that. But a tiny turn back to square doesn't seem to have been a problem...yet.

What was the problem?

So do you mean echo within the room rather than noise from above? That wouldn't be a resilient bar solution. Are you predicting this will be an issue or have you grounds for concern?

Is there truth, as I've had it said, that you can't turn it back again if it's not sitting quite right? I thought the idea was that the fibres expand when the pressure reaches them. And I have turned some back without problems.

I don't recall the demo notice being that complex. It was online and a matter of fact thing. I'd a notice of intent so that tge authorities were aware, and might have a lot. Insurance and bco are a different matter. Demolition should be seen as dismantling, to minimise risk. It is risky because things can move suddenly and collapse. Are you competent to this as diy? What is the construction? You need insurance. Also you should write up a method statement and risk assessment. If you can't write it down, you haven't thought it through enough. It's not necessarily formal: Put a fence round it and tell the neighbours, the children to keep out, and lock the dog indoors. How to do it How do you stop it falling over. Access and working at height safely Never stand under it Safety wear. Etc

The same principles apply but you already have the advantage of lots of density. What can you hear at present that you want cut out? Footsteps, voices, thumping bass?

What centres are the joists? Looking at different products you might find one that squeezes in neatly. eg, a 1200 roll cuts into 3 x 400 with a saw before unwrapping. Most rockwool is less itchy than most fg.

Slate and tiled roofs let water in but then it stops at the underlapping slate and gradually goes down to the gutter. If there is an underfloor, then that can catch any rogue drips that escape. That looks a decent job, but at your vent i suspect that water can blow up over the top or side of the zinc and has nothing under it. Or some tiny gap where the slates are cut. It would be necessary to take the ridge off to see how far the metal goes.. I think it should go all the way to the apex OR have another overlapping piece to intercept it. And wider too, hidden under the top slate. Wind is the likely culprit. Gusts generally last just a few seconds, firing water upwards, but then releasing it. Hence a longer flashing might suffice. Mastic exists for flues but that should not be very hot there. It is not very flexible so won't last long. Try a local stove shop. There are special and foolproof rubber flashings for flues througb metal roofs but they are ugly and not appropriate to your lovely roof.

Could you explain please? Do you want comparisons of materials, or decibel reduction numbers or something else. The simple answer is "very".

We need to extend our cover. Bug fif how long? At some stage we aren't constructing, but finishing. Then perhaps partially occupying, then completing externals. I really don't know how long to extend ( risk is obv reducing but Idont feel that the premium is) Any advice?

As another discussion... on some projects that man would need a helmet and thus have to use a lower step. And be on a 400mm platform not a ladder. Myself? I'd approve of bump caps for boarding, they really work if a board drops.

No. With a prescription or if the qualified pharmacist prescribes it. You can even only buy ibuprofen and paracetamol in pharmacies.

Should say specialists. I noticed that there is move from unknown or little known badges towards the big names. In the typical aircon units (one out, one in) were Hitachi, mitsububishi, Haier, despite being twice the price. Also Bosch. And re balcony solar, the domestic plugs in Spain are reversible and not well-fitting.

It's not perfect because we have to deal with reality. I think the sound tests as published are all done within panels . i.e.no edges. When I had room to room tests done in a completed project, all rooms performed a category below what the spec sheets claimed. The tester said this is always the case. You'll be relieved to know it was OK. This is what we are doing.. the same as you but added quilt (to be tidied!).

True.

The opposite surely. Do you have the time or inclination to sketch your ultimate design for the world to see?

But then the plasterboard must touch and be sealed at the interface. It's a compromise. I think you are OK unless it is a recording studio, or a bedroom under a gymn.

Ahem. I spent 3 horrible days under a Boots factory. Damp smelly and 3ft headroom. Using a water level, as lasers hadn't been invented. The water settled in seconds on each of the several hundred occasions. Perhaps it is proportional to the diameter and length of pipe. As mine was mostly lying flat on the solum I assume this dampened the movement.

Otherwise a lake would be higher on the sunny side than the shady.

If you consult them early, they can assess off plan, and that is the time to change the design or argue the niceties. We've done that and established that we don't have technical disagreements, and had some good advice. The assessor is highly engaged in interested, including alternative opinions.

I'm always researching for you all..... I went in to a Spanish diy store yesterday. Think b and q with more emphasis to trade. Eg lots of plumbing and electrics that would be from survivalists in UK. They are revamping so there was less solar to see than is on their website. But I could have bought from a big stack, a 440W balcony panel, for €449. That simple. Trolley, checkout, take home and plug in.

3 years later Does this take the record for a prolonged topic? @Gus Potter having a catch-up. I've recently done some drypack and some poured and learned even more. But I will relay that if the subject comes up again.

We have this issue. A patio door opens on to an area that has to be low fof drainage. As levelvaccess is desirable anyway we are intending to make the area from slabs or large tiles supported by mapei pedestals. They leave a gap fit drainage. Maximum grade is 5%. I can't say this works for you but it may he an option. There is another manufacturer too.

Is that picture showing what we are discussing? With the polythene my wetness point is silly. Maybe it could do with more clips, or just screws, where there are no pipes, as anchors. Maybe this is a job for the fibre variation of screed.

I'm thinking of the rb to joist connection. It is timber so needs a timber screw and I hadn't considered they might use a drywall screw.