saveasteading

It's certainly in the building regulaions as an option. Space is the usual reason against it. . But for planning and proven P levels I've no idea.

Sorry, I think the planner is correct. They shouldn't be expected to make their own scale bar off your drawing, or calculate every dimension. It's good practice to state what the scale will be when printed at a certain size. Eg scale 1:100 at A3. That makes it easy for the planner, and also anyone else that wants to look, and they can use a standard scale rule. The same then applies for construction drawings. It's difficult but the above offers of assistance should sort it for you.

If you imagine the overhang being cut off at 45°, the forces from the studs will transfer to the narrower wall. In theory it's a bit higher loaded at the inner edge, but probably ok. Double up the sole plate and it will certainly spread the load.

A thought. No more than that: P is a fertiliser and helps plants to grow. That's the problem in this case. Reed beds convert effluent into plants. Is a reed bed an option?

A QS works in the interest of who is paying them.

I've done many a building at 1m from a boundary, due to this being significant for fire resistance. To do this it needs either 600mm wide scaffold towers or to be built in scaffolding tube. These then need to be tied to the structure for stability. It's much harder to work in that space, including getting materials in, but with the price of land, it's an option

I googled it. @Amateur bobcan too.

A matter for another day perhaps. Industry contracts, esp JCT, are designed to be fair and equitable. From the quote above it looks as if the builder did not have authority for all of this, so isn't due all the money. You have a contract, so Lawyers can work with that.

Sounds like the answer. @Amateur bob can at least work on this assumption while the others catch up.

That's common. I mean having an accurate gut feel of how it's going is a rare skill. They can analyse of course, and should, but they will be getting surprises too. Costs did increase last year but not that much. If it's any consolation, I would always allow at least 10% contingency on a refurb/ conversion and expect to have to spend it and overcome as much again with skill and ideas. So I'd advise an amateur to allow more. Have there been any surprises in the project that had to be overcome? Regardless of all that, what does the contract say? Is it an industry standard contract or the builders own?

Can the output of both tanks be piped to a single P treatment installation? I'm wondering if the planners have heard of the klargester phosphate removal equipment and assumed this was a digester too. But no, from klargester or Marsh and perhaps the others , it is an extra thing.

The joists are stabilising the wall that holds up the roof. Not high science, just the way traditional buildings work. I wouldn't dream of removing them.

No longer as it now has plywood overlapping the joints.

That's good policy though. Lochs are very low on nutrient so that would really mess things up. If the P tank is £3k then are you going to pump the septic contents to the new, PTP and a single P tank? The next size of PTP isn't usually much more.

OK from a very quick study. Phosphorous (P) is a problem in rivers and ponds. Package treatment plants reduce P whereas septic tanks don't. The concentration is less important than the amount and timescale. So big plants eg on a housing estate, may need additional treatment. If going to soakaway it is less of an issue. Local authorities in sensitive areas may require additional treatment to reduce P esp on big developments It's an extra tank with chrmical treatment, at a few £k whoever supplier. For a single domestic PTP to soakaway it doesn't seem to be a worry for us.

I'm not aware this is a requirement. Perhaps is best practice if discharging to a water course as it increases algae. Do you have a source for this info?

The prices may vary according to whether they do exactly the right size. I saw these online yesterday but know them to be in the right field. We bought the 10 person for £2,295 +vat, a year ago.

Decision made. 6mm plywood does fit to the threshold level, and is already obtained, being a standard product, So unibonding and screwing it on. Then it will need a bit of latex at the threshold and be ready. Thanks team.

I've used them 3 times over about 10 years. Very happy with technical advice (a real person) and the product. UK made, fibreglass. What else do I like? Options for depth to keep the hole shallow. Easy delivery. Bought through your BM so iz on account. Not overcomplicated.. 3 Chambers in a line Mucky in, almost clean out and that will still clean the water and flow in a power cut. I've no experience of the others, so have nothing against them.

There are other ways. Your loading is only increasing slightly, isn't it? So doesn't need doubling the joists? 1. Bolt a wallplate to the wall and rest the new joists on it. 2. Sister the existing joists. They shouldn't need to go all the way into the wall, as bending is in the middle. 3. Fix plywood on top and/ of bottom of joists thus turning ghe whole floor into a very strong structure. These are practical suggestions, not mainstream, that you must run past the SE who knows the full context.

Looks like the vortex is about £2400 and rhe Marsh £1800. Plus vat. vortex has built in sampling chamber apparently. It's all easy to find online.

If the hole is tightly dug, that is fine. If not, it can be a lot of concrete. This detail can follow as it isn't urgent. Way back, Conder and Klargester were the options. One of them became the generic name through more extensive marketing.

There isn't 6mm to play with due to existing constraints. 3mm ply or 3.6mm ply seems expensive as not in stock as standard. Not bad work for an Architect doing some practical. Existing founds and slab retained, stick build above. Nobody else involved so far, but plumber and electrician will do their stuff.

No there are joins and it moves a fraction there. After filling it may be ok, and there will be a washing machine etc which will preload. She thinks she clicked the wrong item on the order and is cross with herself, hence hoping for a magic answer. But I'm thinking best add another sheet glued and stapled everywhere. Then the taped edges may suffice too. With these joins to cover and strengthen the ply is favourite, as hardboard may not be stiff enough, Yes, it will be dry laid first.

Bosch is one of the reliable brands so that isn't the problem.. I think you may have reached structural concrete or a lump of something very hard. Have you tried different speeds? Fastest is not best. Also don't push to hard as it reduces the banging effect. Failing that, buy or borrow or hire an SDS drill. this isn't especially expensive, but good sds bits cost much more than poor ones. An sds drill bit rattles loosely in the drill and so chips rather than scrapes at the material. And/or try a different type of bit. Tungsten heads sometimes work better on hard materials. Or there are diamond bits, readily available at the merchants.