saveasteading

That's my concern too. Will it displace if you hose it, brush it, ir with the wind? Will gaps fill with insects?

Fixing structural reinforcement is a skill, and most builders don't have it. So choose cost or bodge. Plus the SE assessment and design. Strip footings are easy and is prob just 1m deep.

Good points. Lots of lime ruins taps etc. What sort of cost is the setup? And running?

It seems a waste to fliter water used for flushing.

I meant several one-offs as opposed to needing hundreds and every day.

It's just an inline filter isn't it?

If a one-off thing needs confirmation, then simply email it someone cc yourself. Then you can add a comment. That can fit in with family/ mates too. Hey John , we made a start at last. Dug this hole yesterday, got it approved by bco and concreted today. Sort of thing.

Depends on the soffit. Is it stiff and can pan that distance? You will have to fix it at the wall side too. A batten on the wall.

I said that earlier, and that I don't generally favour expanding foam. In some discussions where the advice isn't wanted I duck out.

The cost is relativaly small and it removes some concerns so ok. My quick and dry method of checking floors for level is a golf ball. Roll in several directions (across and diagonals) and see if it deviates. The official check for smoothness is a 3m staightedge. Lay it down and also rock it, to see how big any gaps are. Do it all over. 3mm is the limit on commercial floors and sensible on domestic too. But the pir and screed will overcome any bigger gaps.

Fix a triangular batten under the rafter against the fascia, and screw up into it?

I'm all for retaining slabs. Too many are broken out needlessly. 200mm is heavy industrial thickness for forklifts and racking. You can tell how flat it is simply by looking for puddles. A few mm is of no consequence. Why do you need a new dpm on top?

Denso is vaseline on a bandage. I expect it will soak into the plaster as an oily stain

That is warehouse spec. I'd say use that as perimeter as it has the building on it, but can reduce the middle to 6". I'd also like to have the walls overhanging the slab.

AAArrggh. Maybe it will be ok.....but expanding foam is used far too often because it is a quick bodge. Does the can say anything about heat / shrinkage /reactions against copper?

I've had awful problems with them. Egos exceeding their knowledge being the cause. I've always prevailed but it wasn't fun. It was worth maybe £50k. I think mostly people do what they are told, hence they weren't used to, and didn't like, me arguing. Is your builder spending your money or their own if instructed to do anything? I'd say LABC for traditional and simple house extensions, because they are cheaper. Private for anything more complex because they know more / or will discuss.

Heat in the pipes will be lost into the wall. Can you get some foam rubber or bubblepack or similar behind them?

Yes it will. but I think we know it is moving. How much though?

These are minor amendments, and may be approved without an application. If you write, summarising the changes as a matter of courtesy, then you will be covered. They will probably then ask for a formal resubmission of these details and £110 or so. At worst the existing permission still stands It is difficult to see them refusing a 200mm height increase when it is for better insulation, to current standards.

That is another positive of the heavy, solid construction. The operation of doors, especially, is very crisp because nothing is bending. With aluminium doors there ca be twisting and a less good fit. Twice the cost of a good aluminium product. A matter of taste and budget.

They are beautiful. expensive but lovely. our only downside was that they wouldn't do anything other than rectangular. People say this is not correct so perhaps it was only our local agent who didn't want to.

On the other hand, what regulations do you not want to update to? they are all sensible.

All projects take time, whether a month or years. so I would say that the regulations of the time will apply. But there must be some thought of what is a reasonable delay, I expect. 15 years is a long time. I recommend speaking to the building inspector, and then getting the opinion in writing.

Simply making a short statement to the PC does a lot in showing you are a real, local person. It gives them a chance to ask questions too. It shouldn't be the case, but councillors are influenced by applicant presence...in favour if you are pleasant and reasonable and keep it brief. 3 minutes is very little. The pc opinion is not binding on the planners at all, but can influence their decision.

It looks quite serious to me. I wouldn't expect a wall to fail by vertical cracking. As suggested above, it has probably been built wrongly in several ways. I would drill drainage holes as a first step in risk reduction. They should be near the bottom. Best is to insert pipes which will act as spouts. That will stop it acting as a dam, and the load from the water will disappear. Because it may not be filled behind with gravel, but with earth, I would add some higher holes too. The holes should be fairly wide, to prevent them just blocking up again. 25mm? It isn't a high wall so any continuing failure will probably be small movements. Do the holes, patch the cracks and keep an eye on it. Otherwise it is best taken down and rebuilt with reinforcement, concrete infill and drainage.