Hecateh

my other quotes from slightly larger builders came in at between 1400 and 1500 per sqm just to get to second fix, also based on standard foundations and straightforward sewerage so would have racked up well over 1500 had I gone with them, hence taking the risk with someone relatively inexperienced. Although I am not doing anything myself I am doing lots of reading and getting him to explain what he is doing and why. He is keen and enthusiastic and. so far, I don't regret it although the professionalism of his team leave a bit to be desired. My son is also keeping an eye on things - he is an architectural technician and if he hadn't been working such long hours would have been a lot more involved. Judging by what I have paid so far labour is about half the cost (week 10) then there is his final profit, so yes if you do it all yourself or with unpaid help you can definitely bring it in much cheaper. They started digging the foundations the first week in December and I hope to be able to move in by the end of April. The sooner the better as the cost I haven't included above is the loan interest - which on a bridging loan on this property is very expensive and I need to get this property sold as soon as possible. Building it yourself will take much longer and you will need the 20% VAT in your budget as well - which will make a nice budget for furnishings when reclaimed. And probably a much deserved holiday as well

AFAIK it is the former - just one claim and within 3 months of the Completion Certificate, Like you I don't think occupation makes a difference. As I'm paying a builder the only things I am buying direct are the kitchen and bathroom fittings so it shouldn't be too onerous a task I hope

Maybe lol

Absolutely - and that is a main consideration as I live alone and am in my early 60's . My priorities now are financial freedom and not having to worry about the property so the next 30 ???? years can be hedonistic (Family history suggests I will live well into my 90's (groan)

So true - The SE went over the top on the foundations (building inspector - who was there and had seen the soil reports - said 'he said you've got to do what? it's a split level bungalow not a nuclear bunker') Having said that, when excavating the drive, they came across coal, (I am on South Yorks coalfield) there was no sign of coal at all in any of the bore holes.

AND - if you had told me last year I would be able to tell you all this I wouldn't have believed you. Currently - if I had known how many 'calls' on contingency there were going to be; how pathetic my architect was going to be; how awkward neighbours were going to be; I probably wouldn't have gone ahead - but ask me again in a few months. I was looking at around the 125k mark when looking to downsize so the cost is similar BUT I expect to get 20 to 30k less for the house with the reduced land (although it is a bungalow so not all want a big garden) so it is 'costing' me 20 to 30 k more. Although I will have a MUCH better house and one far more suited to me and my lifestyle.

I'm building on a budget - doing none of the practical work myself. Downsizing to fund my retirement and thoroughly disillusioned by what was available. The best quote I got came in at just under £100 per sqm. 89k for approx 96 sqm. This didn't include land - I am building in my garden; landscaping - apart from drive; flooring finish, or pre building costs. It also didn't include bathroom or kitchen although it did include fitting of these. My builder is a 'one man band' with a regular team of 4 or 5 'lads' for the building stage, and a regular plumber, sparky and plasterer. He has experience in that he has been in the industry since leaving school and he is now about 30, but the business is new and he has never tackled a new build before, though has built a number of extensions bigger than my house. This figure has already gone out the window as my house is on a slope and although he allowed for an element of retaining, the SE specified way above that. (Quote specified what foundations were included). So about £9k extra for foundations. (At one point he thought it could be as much as 20K). There is no easy access to sewers resulting in the cheapest work around costing an extra 3K for an alarmed pump. Driveway is coming in at double the size he quoted for - another few k. Underfloor heating another 3k. (No heat exchanger, MVHR or other heating upgrades) And this, although finished to a 'good' level will not have half the upgrades that many on here are including and won't be nearly as airtight (although it will be a big improvement on my current sieve). So with the addition of a fairly cheap kitchen, 2 ensuites and a separate loo I am probably looking at around 115k plus pre build costs of 10k (ish). So £1300 per sqm. With regards VAT, using a builder scores as he takes the hit for paying and reclaiming and I pay tax free. My reclaim will only be be for kitchen and sanitary ware. VAT - you can only make one claim and it has to be within 3 months of completing. If doing it yourself you have to be able to finance this 20% until you reclaim and if you reclaim as soon as you move in you won't get any other expenditure tax free (As I understand it)

Regarding the amount, it depends on your own council. Barnsley Council, where I life has adopted it but the amount payable varies according to the area between £0 and £80 per sqm. Luckily for me, my build is in a £0.00 area. A win for once. I found it by looking up CIL on the council web site.

Epsom salts are magnesium - we are generally short of magnesium in our bodies because of intensive farming. I have no idea what they will do to your system but they are not sodium chloride based. If you decide against it there are other ways of getting the physical benefits ( Magnesium glycinate and/pr magnesium malate capsules/ Another thought that has come to mind - salts are used to soften water so shouldn't they be positive rather than negative to your system

Alternatively you could offer to pay the builder an extra 3 or 4 % to take the card - again - always worth asking

You can usually get the cash for a one off fee which is at a far lower rate than mortgage (well for me anyway as I'm using a bridging loan which runs at 13% (gulp) but 3 % is the normal charge for 30 months which is still cheaper than most mortgages. Mine has a variation of 4.9 for the life of the loan which may work out cheaper if I can pay it off within about 6 months which should happen, or, worst case scenario, I don't get hit with full charges after x months. Why not ask your card supplier?

Have you got a credit card you could use. I've a card that I rarely use, (luckily their 'promotions' don't tempt me) on which I have allowed them to keep increasing my available balance. I can now get a goodly sum at a moments notice should I need it. Used it to loan my son 12k a couple of years ago that he could easily afford but new rules wouldn't let him have. Now it's there as a (second) contingency on my build. I will only use it when I know it's only about cash flow not affordability.

My advice would be to shop around. My architect sent me one quotation and I would have accepted it if it hadn't been for a 3 week lead time. the quote she sent was around 1800. Other quotes varied between 600 and 2,500 for 4 bore holes to 4 m. The more expensive ones did include the soil testing for porosity and elasticity but the company I used - the cheapest one, outsourced those and the total bill incl VAT was £940. Depending on location some added in travel costs - the company I used was local, only about 30 mins away, which may have helped

As far as I know they all do. My loan isn't even against the new build but my current property - but they wouldn't do it unless I got the 10 year warranty for the new build. £2500 down the Swannee as far as I'm concerned as I won't need a mortgage once I am in the new build and the old one has sold - and I have no intention of selling the new one - will be carried out of there (in a box or otherwise - so my kids should have paid for that ). The bungalow that the mortgage is against has had various things done to it in the past 20 years since I have been in. Some of which should have had building control but didn't because I didn't know and the builders didn't say anything mentioned it. BUT the mortgage company never even asked about it. I am likely to have to pay for indemnity before I sell. Most of it was done 18 years ago so should be ok but a bathroom company too a wall down and put in a wooden beam for support about 7 years ago. I did ask them about bc but when they told me it wasn't needed I didn't take it any further. (because at that time I had no intention of leaving this bungalow - early retirement has necessitated the new build to fund the 3 years until I can get my pension and, hopefully, make the time after that more comfortable)

Another option would be to go for planning with what you have already. Sell the pot on with planning permission which would give you the money to wither do up the one you are living in to a high standard. Pay of the mortgage much earlier or sell and buy something more to your liking. I'm sure, I'll be glad I've done this in the long run but there are times I wished I had called it a day at getting permission and sold the current bungalow with planning permission for the new build in the garden

Yep - and because I had to get a loan (bridging loan based on current home so nothing to do with new build) I had to pay for it.

The big benefit of the WIBNIs is it give you something to take out again when other things come in more expensive e.g. my inset balcony lol

Imagine someone coming along today and saying Nope - You must be mad - no way can you do that! How that would make you feel, if you can imagine, it is a good guideline as to whether to give up or not. If it makes you feel relief that someone has taken the decision for you, then I would suggest calling it a day. If like me, when someone said it to me for real, your internal response is 'Just you try and stop me' again you have your answer. I have found there are a lot of associated costs that I hadn't taken into account, as well as increases in some I thought I had. Currently, everyday I am questioning why the *&*^&*^ I thought I could do this but I know I would have always regretted it if I hadn't, even though I am having to compromise on what I originally wanted. Not sure how old you are but I guess you have a good few years ahead of you. How are you going to feel in 2030 if you are still living in your second hand house?

Love how these look

Think I may go this way. The other solution was to not use brick for the top of the gable end but do a timber frame and lightweight cladding but the more I think about it the more I think I'll just go for a juliet rather than actual balcony Oh and the view is amazing

DHW pretty low, about 4 showers per week winter and daily in summer . dishwasher and clothes washer both use cold, probably a bowl of hot water 4 or 5 times a week for miscellaneous pots and cleaning. Are saps on plans?

Is it reasonably easy to work out what my likely requirements are? I certainly can't base it on where I am now - this place is a leaky as a sieve

Ground floor is lounge kitchen and the bedroom and dressing room upstairs

Is ASHP expensive to install? What are you doing for DHW?

Hate them - not all mine are under windows but all are in the way - it's another reason for going for UFH It will be relatively easy to get gas to new property - but this is the question at the moment - whether it is worth the expense of getting it or stick with electricity. I think it's worth it but ?? I understand there are combi boilers that are suitable for UFH, - 'unvented cylinder' not sure what this is or if I would have one this was something I was thinking about but not sure about - as you say things are changing quickly and I'm not convinced there is not going to be a lot more change meaning surrent new technology has a short shelf life so to speak. Definitely zoning it - downstairs one zone, mid floor one zone and upstairs possibly two as I want bedroom cool and dressing room bathroom etc warm