Hecateh

Not sure if this applies here but I received a completed form from someone which was fine in email form but only downloaded the blank form. I got round it by, insteading of downloading, I chose print to PDF which then saved it as a complete PDF on my computer.

Just done a bit of research. Adding a natural fibre topper or cool gel topper is supposed to help

I think the newer (and more expensive ones) are better. Mine is a hybrid but at the cheaper end and is a few years old now. I think some of them now claim modifications that increase the airflow and so don't cause the problem or reduce it at least.

I hate to try and sleep in that temp - though have to sometimes in summer. I easily get overheated in bed (I think the memory foam has a hand in that) but once I wake up, if I don't get up straight away then I need more covers It's whatever suits the individual. I just think it's wrong to make out that sleeping in a cold room, so long as sufficient covers are available, is not healthy

Totally agree, none of us over about 50/60ish, grew up in centrally heated homes. As a child in winter there was always ice on the inside of the window in the morning. (Cold damp air in a cold damp house I do suspect isn't the best for health) None of us would be here anyway if that was the case - in the days before anything but a single fire in a draughty house, the house was never warm as warm as 18 in winter except right in front of the fire or stove. Scandinavians wrap their babies up and put them outside to sleep in sub zero temps. - they have a tendency to be pretty healthy. My preferred sleeping temp is around 13 or 14 degrees and my bedroom temp in my old house last year was as low as 11 on a number of occasions. And I still kept my windows open. It's lovely now that I can have a cold bedroom and a warm dressing room

Dunbuildingish

A bit old but still true???

it's expired! back at full price £69.99

I think the lad was genuine but only in his 20's and couldn't answer questions about what was acceptable then.

No dangly light - the bathroom is what I got him in to sign off. Electric UFH and lighting up to scratch

No backed of of Purple Bricks. Spoke with the EA on Saturday, (Not my nominated person) and he wanted me to have it done saying it is becoming common. My solicitor on the other hand said it was up to them to sort it if they wanted it

When the guy came, I let him in and went back to my new place to get my phone. He started work, I came back and 'wondered what he was doing' as I had only asked for the new work to be done. OK he says - but the rest isn't right. OH! says I, but I only need the new work certificated 'OK' he says 'that's what I will send you BUT in what I have checked so far there are issues' - something to do with overload and conductors - and something to do with insulation resistance so it looks like I really do have an issue here! but everything has worked fine for 20 years -

And AND if they haven't done that - what else am I going to uncover?

There are no RCDs even on the sockets. The only RCDs are on the work done in 2010

The cost of the survey doesn't bother me. It's less than £200 - better in my pocket but not worth losing sleep over. If it threw up anything dangerous ie C1s then I am prepared to pay for them It's the 'C2s' anything wired in 2000 is almost guaranteed to have them - I'm not prepared to pay for a rewire. Also if I have it done and he still pulls out I have to give that report to any potential buyer as it is 'known faults'. Again I'm not talking about things that are really dangerous and not just potentially so.

I would call his bluff but I know how stubborn he is. Before 'buying' mine he was very close to exchanging/completing on another house. According to him she kept putting the date back. He 'finally' said he had had enough and was pulling out. She then said she could exchange that week and he told her 'too late, it's off. Of course this is only what he has told me.

I'm not sure I could resist ?

I know that's what I'm thinking, that's why I want to know what I can expect in terms of probable faults that are due to change in regs and or general wear and tear and what should reasonably raise red flags for the buyer.

Also, how much is it likely to cost

The house I am selling was rewired when I moved in in 2000, with further electrical work being done when I had my bathroom done in about 2010. I know I should have had a certificate for the more recent work. I don't think I was given any but if I have I have lost it. I was asked by the buyer's solicitor to buy an indemnity. In the spirit of doing things right I instead got an electrical report done for the work done in 2010. which was basically ok - had some C3s. One due to not having the test notice, one that the fuse box is plastic not metal and one that incoming bonds are not within 600mm of entry. So basically reasonable ok. The buyer has now decided he wants a full EICR done. Technically he should pay for it as far as I can see but he is refusing and says he is not proceeding with the sale unless I get one done. If I get one done what would be is likely in terms of C1, C2 and C3. I know that if there were any C1s, I would want to get them corrected as that is dangerous . C3s are general recommendations but as it was rewired 20 years ago I can see there being other issues due to regulation changes and possibly general wear and tear. I'm not sure what to think or do. The guy that did the testing basically said as it was done so long ago the chances of it passing are slim to zero

Hmm, great idea the freesat box going above - or maybe offset to the left hand side. The bracket is there because it's fixed into the best available batten. I can easily move the tv over to the left without moving the bracket if I cantilever it out and push it back the other way. I prefer it where it is as I would need to have it at more of an angle to be visible from where I sit and it is already oriented to the left of where I sit; I don't want to have to turn further to watch tv. Whilst it is not ideal in front of the door - it's only me, no youngsters dashing in and out. Over to the left it also restricts access to the kitchen. I'm quite comfortable with the speakers being underneath. I will get the sockets moved up when I next have the electrician out.

A step in the right direction. Once I've shortened the coaxial cables and got a shelf for the freesat box the only visible cable will be the subwoofer one. I don't really want to put a shelf up for that as I suspect I will get a sound bar in due course Discussing it on here motivates me to actually do something instead of just sitting thinking about itw or in context of the room

I really wanted it high as it has the potential to partly block the way into the kitchen round the island. My whole living space is really small, the room, comprising kitchen, lounge and dining area, measures 7.5 m x 3.7 m (with an alcove for the dining table.) My brain told me I shouldn't have an island - but heart won and it does help to define the space. It would also have meant that the tv couldn't go flat back against the wall if the sockets were behind it. It would look so bad if the cables were white. It would also be better if I had a sound bar rather than the speaker system I am using that I bought for my computer at least 10 years ago. So, I have tidied it up a bit, and will just stick with it for now. Until the house sale goes through I can't even contemplate spending on a sound bar. My sister is having to loan me expenses month to month and the buyer is being a pain in the neck and I suspect he is about to pull out. If I mount the speakers and put up a shelf just below the tv for the freesat box I can hide most of the wiring behind the TV. I can get rid of the shelves and just leave the woofer on the floor. Not having someone to bounce ideas off at home it really helps getting ideas from here. I really love the way @ProDave 's is but mine is on an exterior wall so there is only the batten thickness to recess so I won't be doing that. I will be aiming to getting it look as similar to that as I can. (

Exactly the same, excellent reviews and a variety of fixings both for the wall and for the tv

This is how it is currently. There are 2 sockets and I need 4 so I have a switched extension which is behind the shelves. I can easily mount the 2 small speakers - the base twists to provide a place I can fit to a screw in the wall. Especially as the sockets are already high I want to get rid of those old white shelves and keep everything off the floor so I need to find some neat storage for the freesat box (which is a humax dvr @TerryE,) and the woofer. Neither of these have any direct mounting capability. The back of the freesat box is like this I have ordered right angled adapters to reduce how far the coaxial cables stick out at the back. The power is not too bad but the cable that TV also protrudes quite a bit. Are there any right angle adapters for this? With the freesat I don't need the aerial connection (connection and cable there but no aerial fitted anyway)