garrymartin

I had assumed from the wording (possibly incorrectly) that @Drellingore was suggesting a new access road rather than a direct frontage access.

Oh, and if you haven't already, take a look at and try to remain a "Domestic Client" through all stages.

Not all self-builds will be notifiable. HSE must be notified of the project if: It will last longer than 30 days and involve more than 20 workers at the same time; or It will exceed more than 500 person days If the project is notifiable, then as you note, the HSE must be notified online using the F-10 form. Bear in mind that this is time on site, so you don't count off-site fabrication of timberframes or staircases etc.

Can't help with the cost, but just bear in mind (if you aren't already aware) that "impermeable materials over 5m² need Planning Permission: If your driveway is larger than five square meters and you use impermeable materials like traditional concrete, you'll need planning permission."

Be careful that when I asked National Grid (Western Power) for an estimate, they included all the network reinforcements on my estimate. When I challenged that, they said they always include them on a desk-based estimate and I'd need to formally request the connection to get the more accurate cost that would just cover the extension assets. Seems to me to be a mechanism for putting people off that don't know about the charging structure changes...

The whole charging structure changed on 1st April 2023 - you have to pay for extension assets (connection) but should not have to pay for reinforcement assets (cable and transformer upgrades). https://connections.nationalgrid.co.uk/significant-code-review/

The Manual for Streets shows how to draw and calculate visibility splays. Page 93 shows you how to draw visibility splay lines when the roads don't meet at 90 degrees. Looks like you need a combination of (b) and (c) to draw your lines https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5a7e0035ed915d74e6223743/pdfmanforstreets.pdf But there are probably other guidelines about safety when turning left out of the junction or right into it. Best to speak to your local Highways Department.

There is something called the Post Office Address File (PAF) that companies can license/subscribe to. That's the most up-to-date version of address information. Obviously it's up to individual companies how frequently they update their own data, or whether they subscribe to PAF or similar. First step would be to check that you are on the PAF in the first place - see https://www.royalmail.com/find-a-postcode If you are, then it's down to individual companies how quickly/frequently they update their data from the PAF master.

Are you in an airtight build? If you are, what have you done for venting?

You can't do it yourself, unfortunately, and £1500 seems to be about average.

I'm currently leaning towards an ASHP with UFH in the slab for the ground floor, and Fan Coil Units (FCUs) in the first-floor bedrooms. I doubt the FCUs will be required for anything beyond very occasional heating duties, but they'll allow us to control summer cooling in a much more individual manner. I know they're quite an expensive addition, but "comfort" is one of the big areas in our decision criteria for expenditure, and I've convinced myself not to have a battery initially and to use that saving to fund them! As others have mentioned, you'll need heat in the bathrooms. We're planning for an electric UFH mat and an electric towel rail in each ensuite/bathroom. From experience in our current home, we may not ever switch the electric UFH mat on, but given the relatively low materials cost, it's worth having the comfort of knowing it's there if needed!

The Tesla Powerwall can operate down to -20°C, but they don't recommend that for extended periods. They do a cold weather kit if you expect prolonged periods below -10°C. In my "planning" activities whilst waiting on our appeal, I'm seriously questioning whether to put a battery in at the beginning. The technology is getting better all the time, and they continue to drop in price, so I'm edging towards making space provision for it but using the money saved for other things. Given any future build will be to Passivhaus specification, and the instances of complete power loss are statistically low and short in duration for the area where we'll be building, I'm more inclined to plan overnight cheap rate use of power for ASHP slab UFH and DHW (less cost per unit than will be recovered by the daytime solar export), and maybe install some north-facing panels in conjunction with the south-facing ones to get a longer solar production day and better winter performance. In the short term, that might be the best return on investment for me. Your mileage may of course vary.

You might also consider whether Permission in Principle could be a more appropriate route https://www.gov.uk/guidance/permission-in-principle.

Welcome Dee! It would be worthwhile changing the title to "Advice on floorboards after initial poor job" or something similar to get the attention of the right people.

+1 for the decoupling mat - exactly the situation they're intended for.

Normally just a machine bolt with a penny washer through a hole in the wood you'll use across the diagonal. Is the leg threaded?

Normally just a block of wood across that diagonal that you can see is already cut, and then bolts through that block and into the leg.

I have to start most of my responses by saying "I'm not an expert in this area..." but my understanding was the opposite, i.e. that the anhydrous element (calcium sulphate) *replaced* the cement as a binder. Here you go - this should be useful; https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/a-screed-masterclass

Whilst more expensive, they are considerably more functional. We currently have two banks of 800mm wide 3 pan drawers with all our cutlery, utensils, knives, plates, bowls, cutting boards, bags, gloves, tea towels, baking trays, roasting dishes, and loads more in them. On the other side of the room are pull-out drawers behind doors for all of our foodstuffs, with the ovens and warming drawer above them. Wouldn't change a thing, and one of the key "requirements" in any new kitchen is to have as many drawers as possible. To the OP, even if you don't have the skills or can't get someone to do something like the u shaped vanity drawer for you, you could always "false" fix the top drawer front without a drawer behind it.

If it helps people in making the decision about whether to run an anti-legionella cycle or not, the following is from the excellent Heat Pumps for the Home book by John Cantor.

I think @ProDave is referring to the fact that it's currently a semi-detached with an attached garage. The door at the front on the left-hand side is one property, and the door on the side for the right-hand side is another property - the OP's. As the next door neighbour has already converted their garage to living accommodation, when the OP does the same, they effectively become "terraced".

You don't specify, so just be aware that most *integral* garage conversions are permitted development provided your house isn't listed or in a conservation area, AONB or similar, but most *detached* garage conversions will require planning permission or approved change of use.

I'm by no means an expert in this area, but that's my understanding. Section 73 application to have the condition removed due to the development being exempt. But I'd say speak to the LPA, point them to the guidance on exempt developments, and see what they advise as the most appropriate course of action to remove the condition.

My understanding is as yours - self-builders meeting appropriate criteria are exempt. I'd point your LPA to this guidance; https://www.gov.uk/guidance/biodiversity-net-gain-exempt-developments Self-build and custom build applications An exemption applies to this type of development when it meets all the following conditions:   consists of no more than 9 dwellings on a site that has an area no larger than 0.5 hectares    consists exclusively of dwellings that are self-build or custom housebuilding as defined in section 1(A1) of the Self-build and Custom Housebuilding Act 2015

Not strictly true. Although Openreach runs the largest FTTP network, there are other providers that are laying their own cables in various areas. My FTTP has been with Vodafone and TalkTalk over the years, both using the CityFibre network here in Worcester despite Openreach being available too.