daiking

Tbh, I’m quite impressed with the Howdens units. I’ve only ever seen builder fitted Howdens kitchens that leave a lot to be desired. If I look closely, I can see some quality differences between it and our Alno kitchen but that’s to be expected. Most of the credit though must go to the fitter who's done the work to turn it into a quality install with standard quality equipment.

How big is the space? Some multifoil insulation in addition to traditional bulk insulation may help but will depend on the config.

Looks good

I’ve had this problem every summer since we moved here in ‘15. Someone must have trimmed a tree as this summer it’s been bearable. Another problem solved cost effectively by complete inaction.

The good old “Swastika butt joint”. sorry, just made that up. Some confusion here though. Do you mean how the joints alternate vertically or how the butt joints go round each level in a pattern? Rather than showing the same on each side of each end?

Obvs on the grid and plate. height is fine it’s the plumbing that messes up that space for the white sockets filling that plaster hole will be fun too ?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-way-20a-dp-grid-switch-white/47279 1 way 20A DP is correct? These existing ones are CED (shit)

I swapped them round, the unmarked one just didn’t want to work. All that jazz in a 25mm back box as well, amateurs.

They don’t fit, they’re standalone, it’s not the end of the world ?‍♂️

A problem solved. One of the switches is defective. The ones with the scorch marks is the one that is working ? going to replace both ?

Thanks @Ferdinand but I am going backwards on the posh shed at the moment. The flood considerations may require a fundamental redesign (and significant cost increase) ?.

Got some gaps to fill: 1) around waste pipes going going through external wall 2) copper pipes going through a stud wall Foam? Acrylic? Silicon type? Next, there’s a 2 switch grid switch isolator thing supplying 2 sockets beneath counter level. One switch/socket doesn’t work. Can the 2 switch isolator be swapped for a high enough rated single isolator switch and then use the cable to the working wall socket and replace the single with a doubleskt? And just blank off the defective one? This is to run the washing machine and tumble dryer - (otherwise the appliances will run off a double extension in the working socket.) The ufh manifold sticks off the wall. A base unit is going in front of it. Most of the back of the unit will need to be removed. Is there anything I need to do in the unit after fitting to make sure it runs ok? Ventilation? Protection to prevent damage/interference? where the services run along the wall near the floor, I am intending to silicon some 20mm aluminium angle to the floor in lieu of a skirting board. Sound reasonable? (It will flood into the rest of the house anyway) The existing waste pipe will need modifying for a sink but I need to speak to the fitter first as to what he is willing to do Hopefully photos make sense.

I am not tackling this now and getting someone to do it. I do however have some pre-fitting snags to fix.

You worry to much

I bumped this thread and have pretty much stalled at the moment due to practicalities of this.

Meh,

Not many septic tanks in suburbia but no guarantees as to how 'clean' the water will be.

Woah, lets back up that horse. Current 8’ x 6’ shed is sat on a 4” x 2” frame supported on 6 short 4” x 4” fence posts, post-creted in the ground. This was cheap and easiest for me to do. I am looking to build something approx 20sq m. Again, to make it cheap and easy for me to do, I was planning on an insulated wooden base frame with pads/post. Then stick-building a basic insulated timber frame then wrapping and cladding. Optimistically I think this is within my capabilities (if not my current knowledge). Internals wise, I haven’t decided but would possibly plasterboard, if only for fire protection. But I am less concerned about the consequences for this than the overall structure. If such a building were to flood, just how bad would it be? Would solid insulation be ok to leave? Is timber frame completely inappropriate? Will I have to dig foundations and pour a slab for this instead, maybe even masonry upto a certain height? (This would bring an unnecessary level of cost and complication) what happens when a timber timber frame house floods? Do they rip out the wall insulation?

I think the word you’re looking for is barge.

Similar situation with a stream passing the garden. Yesterday the water came through bottom of the fence which is the highest I’ve ever seen it. I’m looking to build a fully insulated and well specced outbuilding in this spot. Realistically, stilts is not an option due to PD rules. what happens when a TF house gets flooded? Do they just dry it out? Does the manky insulation dry out ok? Never smell?

My shed hasn’t flooded and it is only a shed which I know would dry out as long as it wasn’t washed away... but I’m looking to replace the shed with something more civilised and realise that an important part of the design will be flood considerations.

Not something I’ve considered before but what would the consequences of a timber frame insulated shed being flooded out? What’s ruined? And what can be dried out and refurbished? Are some insulation materials better than others for this? is there a reasonable compromise for low cost construction but reasonable flood survivability?

Indeed, I’ve got a flood warning again. It’s already flooded the road in the other side of the stream locally, some roads upstream and the park downstream.

Quiet this week...

Looking at that for my Howdens utility as it won’t be used much. Got 3 years out of a screwfix watersmiths in the kitchen so far as well.