daiking

I won’t deny that living by my myself at the bottom of the garden isn’t appealing but I’m only looking for a basic workable solution, not a fully functional bathroom not renewable energy generator. If I proceed with a proper garden room instead of a shed, it is going to need some basic facilities that would put off the faint of heart but satisfy a less fussy user and only get used on an infrequent basis.

This photo is from 12 July 2015 nearly happy 4th birthday ? but still I’ll have UFH before Onoff finishes his bathroom ?

Always a good tip for anyone still building. But I’ve been living in the extension for 3 & 1/2 years ?

I'll take a look at that. Someone did a DIY bucket composting type but it must have been in the old place. Hoping they're still around. GBF is probably a better hunting ground for this but its far worse than here.

Actually kept over 3 bar for 2 days. Loops 2 & 3 pressurised last night and kept over 3 bar overnight so looking good. Loop 4 was never filled, is not in the slab anyway and not that important (small loop in a section of suspended floor.

Must have been on the 'old' site I remember reading a thread about it. I'm looking for possible options go with a garden room at the bottom of the garden. The toilet bit would seem straight forward, less so options for using water to wash hands etc.

Probably took me 2 years to realise that this happened on my new gable wall. But really, does it matter? I think this is definitely one for “You live and learn”. Is there anything actually wrong with the construction? Is the worse affected part what you have photographed?

I was surprised to find the water looked clean, I was expecting it to be black and green and gunky after 4 years in the pipes. I had covered the ends but I was sure of the integrity of the covering after all this time. I flushed 2 loops and thought what if all the water had leaked out and I was just flushing through new, clean water? So I set up the vax to suck the water out of the 3rd loop and must have got about 7-8 litres of clean looking water. When flushing through, I was surprised by the low flow out of the end of the hose. Big head loss through 70 ish metres of UFH pipe and then 20 ish metres of hose pipe. I pressurised Loop 1 overnight and the pressure dropped form 3.5bar to 3.2 bar - Not ideal but far better than my attempts 4 years ago. I think loop 1 is the one I mangled when installing. I'll do loop 2 tonight.

?

its 16mm pert al pert and the connectors are already in place and I've got the parts with the manifold to connect to a hose and fill/flush. Its how I filled 'em.

Booked for 11th July ? beforehand I suppose I should checkout the kit I have and... Is there any easy way I can drain and flush the loops of stagnant water myself?

My parents live on a large 1960s council estate in South Wales. The incumbent Housing Association (Valleys to Coast?) is currently going through a programme of fitting EWI to their stock. My parents bought their house in the late 80s so will not be covered by these works. This is leaving some strange sights as terraces of flat roof council houses have hit and miss EWI along them. I cannot vouch 100% for this tale but when OOs (owner occupiers) enquired about having the work done, they were quoted a figure around £20k - even if not that much, they are being asked for a lot of money to do a bit of extra work when everything required is conveniently placed in that current location. There is a fair share of owner occupiers but they are not rich people and the houses are barely worth £100k. This work will just not be done whilst providers are ripping off HAs and/or OOs. These people and OOs all over the country cannot afford this work. Their only option will be to heat less and less of their houses, like their parents and grandparents before them. If the intention is to make everyone EWI over the next 10 years then I really need to change careers so that I can retire at 50.

That should be easy not to do as you've definitely lost me.

Of course I don’t care any more but I also never miss an opportunity for self-flagellation. So please tell me what won’t be done but should be done.

I have some areas(won’t be visible) I can’t finish with a tiled upstand. As this is an area where there could be leaks/spillages, I’d like some sort of other solution. I’m thinking that an aluminium angle profile, approx 25mm high, stuck to the tiles around the perimeter will do the job?

The room is wider than the plan so a 600 will fit ? But I’m not fitting it. ? I’ll draw a box on the wall and tell them to make it fit in that. I think I’m going to have the UFH on it’s own controller so that it can run independently of the radiators.

In this post: The UFH stuff would be in the base unit adjacent to the tall larder unit. As it stands in the picture that unit is actually a 600mm door on a blind corner unit going up to the corner. But I would like to swap the blind corner unit to the back wall and put a 500 wide base unit next to the tall larder unit with the UFH stuff at the back of it instead. The blind corner unit will be difficult to access as it is - and I'm happy with that for seldom used stuff but don't want to hinder access further with the plumbing for the UFH. The knock on effect is the sink bowl needs to fit in a 500mm unit but that's for another day.

Next up, will an 8-port manifold (4 loops) and pump setup with associated plumbing fit within the confines of a 500 wide kitchen base unit? If not, how much space will it need? And, Can you still use some of the space in the cupboard? Do you need to provide any ventilation for it? Hopefully passive if at all @PeterW @Nickfromwales

The floor is tiled but probably not perfectly level. Likewise the walls are probably not level or square. I may very well tile the upstand/backsplash area all the way along which will go some way to hiding a small gap and prevent me having to scribe the worktop to fit.

@joe90 @Oz07 I would just a buy the smaller size unit than try to make a big one smaller. moot anyway as the wall unit on the far right is the boiler and won’t be boxed in, so there will be space. this is our utility btw not our kitchen so a fair degree of bodge is acceptable

£750 says it’s worth a go

The 400mm unit (base and wall) to the left of the sink will be shrunk to 300mm. There are design issues but I’ll save that for another time. The principle here is installation. Plumbing and Electrical are sorted (sort of)

How hard would it actually be to fit something like this? Ok, so I’ve never used a router before or jointed a laminate worktop but...

I'm looking at paying £1150 for this before "extras". There is still talk of a bypass valve being required. Easy money for anyone who wants it. (this work is now hold up the fitting out of my utility room)

https://mobile.twitter.com/PeteApps/status/1139066783724384256 #nooneingovernmentcouldhaveforeseenthis A normal format article by this writer https://www.insidehousing.co.uk/insight/61834