Chanmenie

Yeah that looks odd, I used a continuous dry verge that had a drainage channel so any water that blows through step gap between tiles is directed under the battens and down the channel

Yeah just had mine rendered, the guy cleaned with a brush first then rasped the blocks didnt take long

I still have the standard filters at present as it’s only been running a couple of weeks. The Advance S is big enough for my house and more advanced than the plus B, it’s also quieter apparently

It is very sloppy, I’m not a bricklayer but I can lay bricks better than that. I’d certainly be looking for a new builder, as it shows a total lack of pride and care, you’ll forever be worrying what else isn’t done properly. If a jobs worth doing it’s worth doing well !!

I didn’t buy the Zehnder in the end it’s a bit too big and heavy for where I wanted to mount it. I have the Vent Axia Advance S, it uses 125mm ducting which worked perfectly with the roof vents which match my roof tiles.

I am in the same boat so contacted my current home insurer Aviva, I told them i did not have final sign off from BC. They were happy to provide cover on the proviso that they would not pay a claim that was a result of poor workmanship, quite what difference to that final sign off would make Im not sure, as BC don't see everything. Premium was the same or cheaper as i went from a 4 bed to a 3 bed, the.y have actually covered both properties for 30 days as my site cover expired before the completion date for the sale of my old property.

That’s handy to know, my blocks had been sitting on site for several months before I laid them. I’d heard the main reason for cracking is too strong a mortar mix, so on building sites the labourers won’t do two separate mixes so the bricks and blocks get laid with the same same 4:1 or 5:1 mix which is too strong for aircrete blocks

I laid all my internal walls with durox aircrete blocks and a 6:1 mortar mix, didn’t have a single crack

Theoretically it should only condensate or get rain water from the atmosphere side, which is the side you configure it to. mine I’d also configured for left side

I bet you spoke to the same guy I did, I had a strange gurgling noise, tech guy said I have to have a Hepvo valve but I said the instructions say a U Trap is ok. Any ways I used gaffa tape where the condensate pipe enters the stand pipe trap and that stopped the gurgling. I am getting condensation on the left filter, haven't removed the heat exchanger yet, and don’t have any water dripping out. My unit set for Left Handed and it’s tilted backwards so I assume the drain is working correctly.

Yeah some plasterers can take care. I was lucky too, my plasterer is old school he does things properly.

I cut the plasterboard so the window boards “ears” were back to the block behind the plasterboard, Slide the board in to the plasterboard, draw round the ears then cut with a multitool

Are dry ridges an option with the tiles you are using? I did my own roof 190m2 but it has gable ends not hips

Yeah I back buttered it’s quite easy with a little practice and gives confidence

Yeah I saw that, that looks crap as well. if the wall is a bit off flat just use a bigger notched trowel. That will give a much better contact area. Dot and dab is just lazy IMHO, I’ve watched lots of tiling videos and no professionals use dots and dabs, they all use notched trowels

They are all set to 1 from the factory. Here’s the manual that should help https://www.grantuk.com/media/5179/uh8-rf-v2-15-lr-manual.pdf

I could not live with them that far off flat it would do my head in. l’ve just tiled my upstairs bathroom and used a levelling system. It was so easy to use and the end result looks great. I would never lay tiles now without using a levelling system.

I used 25 x 50, don’t think you can get 30 x 50 battens without having them specially made.

Have a look at Tapworks softeners

Our Renyaers sliders came with tape all over

I’m installing VL Plank at the moment, it’s pretty good

You can dot and dab onto EPS Plasterboard adhesive and Soudal Plasterboard adhesive foam both worked well on my EPS build

Those boxes are not designed to have grommets

How are you planning on building it ? Those U values for walls floor and roof are very low

Yeah I get that @JohnMo but in lots of cases a heat pump is recommended way over the the heat loss. my heat pump will heat my 190L in considerably less that 2hrs. And in your example would the pump actually be running for 24hours ? That would be a bit expensive, how long does yours run for ?