Chanmenie

I made 200 links didn’t take too long once you get the hang of it. I have some bits of rebar kicking about you can try

Got it from eBay, it’ll do up to 14mm bar ill sell it if your interested but I’m a few miles from Cambridgeshire as I’m near Norwich

I had similar issue, ended up buying a rebar bender and making my own. It worked out quite a bit cheaper than buying ready made links even allowing for the bender

Yeah 100mm with pipes stapled to insulation. Spiral pattern with 150mm centres

screed above is a waste of money Mines very similar to JohnMo except I have pipe spacing at 150mm. I used EcFlow fibre reinforced concrete. it heats up much quicker than I expected and I get away with low flow temps, highest flow temp I’ve had is 29 degrees.

Yeah double garage with 2.4m doors can’t get the straps on the inside though due to the double thick block work piers

Just had a thought, could I strap the trusses to the piers instead of strapping the wall plate ? As the straps are to prevent lift, a twisted strap wrapped over the trusses and screwed to the concrete piers should achieve the same result if I’m not mistaken

Yes potentially the straps would then be over 2m apart though, and I assume the straps and screws would need to be stainless steel ?

Has anyone got any suggestions on the best way to affix the wall plates above these concrete lintels. obviously I can’t just fit the normal straps down the blockwork due to the piers.

Crikey, is it cold where you are ? mines been turned off for 3 weeks and the internal temp hasn’t gone below 19.7 it was 23 this afternoon

Depends on the heat pump I think. I can honestly say my Veismann Vitocal is very quiet, I can stand right next to it and not know it’s running other than by the cold air coming from the fan. other people have also remarked on how quiet it is. It faces my neighbour and is 6 meters from the boundary, his oil fired boiler is considerably more noisy, he has never heard my heat pump running.

So how are you supposed to fold the DPC up into the ICF block ? Surely when you pour the concrete it’ll push it down. Seems overkill, especially with an EPS raft

He can’t move the door over because of the stairs

I think it’s normal to just lay the ICF blocks on the overhanging DPM, why add another one ?

Thanks @Nickfromwales Well i commissioned it so could be my mistake. we have a heat pump so the water usually around 45 to 46 max I’ll take the knob off and check

I don’t think it’s thermostatic @Nickfromwales I can turn the hot to whatever I like ? I do have a water softener but that’s a good shout thanks mate

I went through the same conundrum recently We had decided on polished porcelain for the walls but wanted something with anti slip on the floor, after much searching we found a 1200 x 200 wood grain porcelain which works perfectly, it doesn’t feel slippery at all and was rated R10

Yeah I know I was agreeing with you, and sharing my experience to back it up

I agree my heat loss was max 3kw so installer recommended the 4KW heat pump, which works fine, no short cycling, and it copes fine, although as I have previously said my flow temps are lower @ 21-28. Hot water heats to 54, it’s set at 50 but always ends up at around 54

No idea on form, but it seems ok, a small heat pump, very low flow temps and it’s toasty and warm 😀

190m2 well insulated

My MCS installer said I needed rads upstairs, similar size to yours @YorkieSelfBuild. I have my flow temp lower though, with ufh and rads the highest it’s been is 28 degs when it was -5 outside, I was surprised that although the upstairs rads didn’t feel warm ( I measured them at 24deg) they raised the temp in the rooms up to 19 quite quickly. I had a heating supplies guy tell me I’d need 35 degs flow temp but that was rubbish most of Dec, Jan and Feb it averaged 25-26 and maintained the indoor temp throughout the ground floor at 19-20. I run it on weather comp. The flow temps in the spreadsheets above are rubbish, you can’t have rads at 45 and UFH at 35, it will be the same for both, I have 4KW pump and with the low flow temps the COP is 5.3

With my Beco blocks the inner insulation is only 55mm so for heavy stuff like radiators, TV and the doors I cut the insulation and bolted 4x2 timber to the concrete core, that gave a good base for fixing stuff 😀 this was for the TV Bracket, I took photos so I could remember where they were after I’d plasterboarded over them

My SE only specified rebar over openings as expected with my EPS blocks I did however put 90deg bends in the corners every other course, because I already had it as was originally going to use Isotex and the blurb from Italy said to put rebar in corners so the SE agreed.

Yeah catastrophic sums it’s up. there were over 80 houses demolished near Cambridge recently due to incorrect foundations I’m a bit shocked the brick layers didn’t notice ?