Chanmenie

So how are you supposed to fold the DPC up into the ICF block ? Surely when you pour the concrete it’ll push it down. Seems overkill, especially with an EPS raft

He can’t move the door over because of the stairs

I think it’s normal to just lay the ICF blocks on the overhanging DPM, why add another one ?

Thanks @Nickfromwales Well i commissioned it so could be my mistake. we have a heat pump so the water usually around 45 to 46 max I’ll take the knob off and check

I don’t think it’s thermostatic @Nickfromwales I can turn the hot to whatever I like ? I do have a water softener but that’s a good shout thanks mate

I went through the same conundrum recently We had decided on polished porcelain for the walls but wanted something with anti slip on the floor, after much searching we found a 1200 x 200 wood grain porcelain which works perfectly, it doesn’t feel slippery at all and was rated R10

Yeah I know I was agreeing with you, and sharing my experience to back it up

I agree my heat loss was max 3kw so installer recommended the 4KW heat pump, which works fine, no short cycling, and it copes fine, although as I have previously said my flow temps are lower @ 21-28. Hot water heats to 54, it’s set at 50 but always ends up at around 54

No idea on form, but it seems ok, a small heat pump, very low flow temps and it’s toasty and warm 😀

190m2 well insulated

My MCS installer said I needed rads upstairs, similar size to yours @YorkieSelfBuild. I have my flow temp lower though, with ufh and rads the highest it’s been is 28 degs when it was -5 outside, I was surprised that although the upstairs rads didn’t feel warm ( I measured them at 24deg) they raised the temp in the rooms up to 19 quite quickly. I had a heating supplies guy tell me I’d need 35 degs flow temp but that was rubbish most of Dec, Jan and Feb it averaged 25-26 and maintained the indoor temp throughout the ground floor at 19-20. I run it on weather comp. The flow temps in the spreadsheets above are rubbish, you can’t have rads at 45 and UFH at 35, it will be the same for both, I have 4KW pump and with the low flow temps the COP is 5.3

With my Beco blocks the inner insulation is only 55mm so for heavy stuff like radiators, TV and the doors I cut the insulation and bolted 4x2 timber to the concrete core, that gave a good base for fixing stuff 😀 this was for the TV Bracket, I took photos so I could remember where they were after I’d plasterboarded over them

My SE only specified rebar over openings as expected with my EPS blocks I did however put 90deg bends in the corners every other course, because I already had it as was originally going to use Isotex and the blurb from Italy said to put rebar in corners so the SE agreed.

Yeah catastrophic sums it’s up. there were over 80 houses demolished near Cambridge recently due to incorrect foundations I’m a bit shocked the brick layers didn’t notice ?

That’s awful, must be so stressful for you. Sounds like demolition and rebuild is the only safe way forward.

P4 Glue and screw then tape the joints with gaffa tape if it’s exposed

Get a stihl cordless, far lighter and more convenient than petrol, I have approx 100 meters of leylandi and cut it all on one battery, I was amazed at how powerful and efficient it is, it was recommended to me by a tree surgeon. I think mines the HSA56. But it’s similar to this https://shop.stihl.co.uk/products/hsa-50-battery-hedge-trimmer

I have just fitted similar myself, and yes mine protrude far more. I hade to cut away the plasterboard when I fitted the valves to get them far enough forward, so the only thing that reduced how much they protrude was the tiles. As I did mine myself I was able to mock everything up before finalising the depth of the valves. so yes unfortunately you are going to have to re position the valves much further forward, so if you can get to the back of them that’s probably easier than removing the tiles.

I agree for £40 it’s worth a try as it seems the most likely culprit

Oh right mine didn’t say that, it has a set pressure. yeah doesn’t explain where it going, you’d think the diaphragm was leaking but you said no water from the valve ?

The label says 3 bar so I’d do it to that.

The only metal you should have would be copper, which also will not rust, but yes it’s more likely to have condensation Not sure what you mean by metal-y or plastic-y ?

Have you represurised it, I think those ones need quite a bit of pressure, 3 bar as on the lable If it’s not pressurised the expansion of the hot water will cause the overflow then the working pressure drops and you start again

They won’t rust as they won’t be steel the rising main is mostly likely blue and is mdpe which won’t corrode or rust I don’t get any condensation on either of my rising main pipes or any of the cold pipes under the sinks ?

With the Veismann 151 the 16L buffer is located in the indoor unit with the DHW cylinder. don’t know if there’s another small one in the outdoor unit