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It is the entire flat roof of the house, so over 160 sqm in total - not going to get that re-done. But am starting to wonder if it would be cheaper to go to another warranty provider and start the whole thing again. I have already been in contact with them on this and they recommend an insurance backed guarantee from QANW. I have asked Protek if they will accept this. No response yet. I fear we are going down a similar route and the roofing contractor has so far been more than reasonable and is roped into this mess now because we chose Protek. I have asked Protek exactly what the require and there is definitely no willingness on their side to budge. Their wording is below and they say they need this from both the materials supplier and from the roofing contractor. Looks like I will be relying on the goodwill of my roofing contractors insurance company to provide an insurance backed guarantee like @willbish Very frustrating all round. Protek is one to avoid in my view. Flat Roof Insurance Backed Guarantee Requirement The Policyholder shall provide an insurance backed guarantee covering the workmanship and materials for all flat roof coverings and roof void ventilation works. The guarantee issued by the insurance company shall: i) Independently insurance back the original guarantor’s company guarantee and provide cover in the event the original guarantor ceases to trade; ii) Have a minimum cover period of 10 years or more; iii) Cover both workmanship and materials of the flat roof covering and roof void ventilation works; iv) Confirm the transferability of the guarantee to future owners.

For those considering warranties, we are having awful trouble getting our self-build signed off with Protek. The flat roof is causing the issue. This has been going on for a year now and is stopping us re-mortgaging so we are still paying self-build finance rates. So if you have a flat roof in your design then think twice about Protek, or at least check that your contractor and materials supplier can provide the insurance backed guarantees that Protek requires to provide a warranty. A materials warranty (backed by PI insurance) and a contractors warranty are not sufficient. They want the contractor to cover the materials (which they can't) and both to be insurance backed, which they aren't as standard. Sika is our materials provider and the roof was installed by one of its registered contractors.

We also have no heating upstairs except electric ufh (used in winter) and towel rails (rarely used) in the bathrooms. It drops to around 15-16 degrees in the bedrooms in mid winter. We get some circulation of air via the MVHR and rising heat from downstairs but we notice that the room on the end of the house with three external walls (and a bit of external floor as there is a small cantilevered section) is a bit cooler than the rest of the upstairs (furthest away from the stairwell too). Not a problem but your layout is something to be aware of. Personally I find that room a little chilly sometimes. We have triple glazing and passive house standards.

Thanks everyone so far. Some of the new drive will be going on the same location as the old drive (which probably has a decent compacted layer underneath) but other bits are going over what used to be soil areas so although they are compacted after 2 years of machinery going over them the instinct from everyone to go for a deeper build up feels right. I have asked Quote 2 his reasoning for the shallow layer and we will see. Thanks @Bitpipe for the suggestion. Will ask them to quote. Have asked a Resin Bound ltd recommended contractor (his was quote 1) and also a landscaper recommended by our gate people (quote 2). Bit wary of landscapers who believe they can do everything following a bad experience earlier this year. The feedback has shown I am right to be wary. Finishing off the project is so hard. We are working full time jobs, desperate to get it done but finding it hard to find the time to do the necessary research. Goodness knows how we ever built the house.

We are finally getting quotes in for a resin bound driveway. There is a difference on the build up Quote 1: 220mm "mechanically compacted limestone", 60mm tarmac, 18mm resin Quote 2: 100mm type 1 scalpings, 60mm tarmac, 20mm resin Its the difference in the build up that is making me wonder what is "right"? Any other resin driveway owners happy to share their build up please?

Sadly no digger on site. But today’s rain might soften it so we can dig a small pit to see how deep the problem is.

All great advice thank you. Yes plenty of manure round here though not cheap sadly. might plump for seed in the end but clearly got done prep to do either way. Seen this in Aldi https://www.aldi.co.uk/electric-tiller/p/805141459647600?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx6m2vvCe8AIVi_93Ch09OQ4tEAQYASABEgKVaPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#product-reviews reckon it will get through the solid layer?

We have got to the grass stage and the area to be grassed / flower beds is rock solid from having diggers track over it so much. It doesn’t drain very well at all. I’ll definitely get in some topsoil but what would should we do with this rock solid stuff first before we put topsoil on top? No weeds. It’s like concrete.

We used postcrete to secure vertical bits of sleeper where the horizontal ones join each other. Over engineered for sure but that’s what happens when you have two (ex) engineers and a project ?

we do have 100% flat roof (slight pitch for water run off purposes) with roof lights. One is an access hatch so we can access the roof to clear off leaves. We have a high-ish parapet at the edge but I wouldn’t go up there if not for leaf clearing. Not cleaned the roof lights in 2 years. Seem ok (no self cleaning glass here). solar heating is an issue and we had an external film applied last year so we’ll see if that helps this summer as @Bitpipe notes we had a leak (I did a blog entry I think). Roof membrane was not the problem. Poor window design and installation was. Now resolved. Thankfully.

+ 1 to @Bitpipe comments. Fitted ourselves as per design from BPC. If you have any steel beams you may need to consider access through them for services. We planned for some MVHR ducts and plumbing but not sufficient space for all the MVHR ducts. Had to avoid the beam with a huge detour via the roof void resulting in longer runs than planned. Works fine - was just another problem to solve.

We’ve just laid a proper astro playing surface (2 hockey playing kids). Sleepers worked well around the edge. I’ve also seen brick edging look good (with the astro screwed onto battens). Or a piece of treated timber if you don’t want the height of a sleeper. If you are sand dressing it the weight of the sand will help keep it in place . We were advised to screw to battens though we ended up with the astro covered gravel boards holding it down. before and after shots below. we’ve gone for a high edge but the theory is the same I guess.

Update post Easter weekend project pros - easy to cut to size (I used a jigsaw) - weed membrane already on with plenty of overlap for adjoining pieces - very quick to fill with gravel once laid cons - cost is a factor though we have saved on gravel and the hard surface is great - took longer than expected to lay the grids, levelling being the real issue. In one area the path is “bouncy”. I reckon I had a dip in the sand layer there. Probably a boot print. - need to be careful of grid as can’t walk on it without gravel in it. I cracked one of the honeycomb sections by kneeling in it to put the next section in. Not the end of the world unless it’s a driveway (though the grids for that are stronger) final surface still has loose gravel as you need to leave a min 10mm above the grid. But it’s a solid surface underneath and when you walk on it it doesn’t give like a usual gravel path. i used 6mm basalt chippings. Really easy to smooth into the grid as so small. They dry dark grey but look black when wet. Once I’ve cleaned the trim at the bottom of the exterior walls it might look better. pleased with end result. I’d use again.

its not the unloading that’s the problem, it’s the plastic lunch boxes etc that the drip dry on the worktop above looking a mess. And the stuff that sits around whilst it runs it’s 3 hour cycle. Occasionally I just want a clear work surface. and we have to run it 2 or 3 times a day when we have overnight guests and there’s 8-10 of us in the house. Not a problem at the mo obviously.

It’s not a brilliant close up but you can see it. Can send some install pics if you are interested. We ordered it and fixed it ourselves.

Would do again Timber frame build with render / cladding exterior Passive standard - means low energy costs even though we don't have solar panels Triple glazing - so quiet No heating upstairs apart from UFH in ensuites External electric blinds - a godsend to keep house cooler in summer Aluminium trim around base of house for a finished bottom "edge" - looks smart Larder (but would do it a bit better as it isn't perfect - gets too warm still despite being accessed via an insulated external door, and on a north facing wall with no sunshine). But it is useful extra storage, hidden away and I do like that. MVHR Still might do Solar panels (cabling to the roof is there just in case) Wish we'd done Two dishwashers Some way of cooling the house via the MVHR ducts. Got way too hot last year (though have since fitted solar film to some glazing so will see if there is any improvement this summer) Insect screen on door to patio Wouldn't bother with next time Huge architecturally pleasing windows in upstairs bedrooms. Requiring juliet balconies or safety locks. Complete waste of money - could have set them 300mm off the floor or higher, had a similar visual effect from the outside, would've been cheaper and easier in every way.

Found another supplier. StablePAVE. Their eco one (black or translucent) is working out cheapest. I only have 15 sqm to do. Will look tomorrow at my build up. Bit more crushed concrete needed which I'm shifting by hand /wheelbarrow from elsewhere on site. Then need to whack it. And a layer of sand. Seems simple enough but bet it won't be. Things never are ?

Am thinking about a black basalt. Apparently it has to be angular gravel and 10mm max so thought this would do the trick. https://www.stonewarehouse.co.uk/gravel-chippings/gravel/black-basalt-gravel-6mm Got some pebbles from them recently. They are nice, but the sizing was a bit random (15mm - 30mm pebbles and at least half were significantly larger, even in both dimensions) so thought best to err on the small side. Need to sort of match a grey porcelain slab which will be adjacent. Looks like it is possible to pour resin on top of some grids (Core Drive) which gives food for thought for a driveway. https://www.garden-builders.co.uk/copy-of-core-gravel Was looking at white grids though clearly that won't work with a black basalt so well so maybe grey or black. What are you thinking?

We are also considering it for the driveway too. Going to try a path first as an experiment. Hoping for some recommendations...... Am leaning towards Nidagravel at the moment. Its 29mm deep but suggests over-filling by 20mm to allow for settlement. Slightly cheaper than Corepath. Gravelgrid looks the cheapest though (an add on from Stonewarehouse so you have to buy your gravel from there too). 40mm deep though so more gravel needed. Easter weekend project so will post photos.

We are laying a path around the back of our house and thought these gravel stabiliser grids might a) make it easier to clear leaves off it with a leaf blower (we have a huge beech tree right above) and b) make it easier to walk on. Does anyone have any experience of these and any favourite brands? We have been googling and found Core Path, Nidagravel, Gravel grid and Naylor Metropane. Some are shallower than others (Core Path only 18mm vs 40mm for the others) so gravel usage varies too. Any others to note? Any top tips please?

Thank you. It’s still looking like new. It’s Durapost kit. Some good install videos and a very helpful customer service. We’ve got some spare bits if you are thinking of the same colour....... We are in South Oxfordshire - where are you?

Thanks. That’s what we are going to try. Will post the result.....? Thank you. Just for you, here’s the full wall.......we like planning our runs and cycles from the wall now......

That was a weird website ? but jali.co.uk was better!! Looks like a door isn’t too bad price wise, but doesn’t satisfy my need to use up all the timber I have left over. Looks like we might be able to do something similar to use up bits of left over oak. For the frame we have enough. No floor boards for the door though. Hence the 6mm oak board stuck to mdf idea. Might just give it a go.....

We always thought we’d make our under stairs area look neater by putting a cupboard door in. Now we have a window of opportunity with most other indoor jobs done so here we go. Thought we’d make our own to get the size right to fit the space and have a very large door to fit a human in easily. It’s about 700mm wide. I bought some 6mm oak boards. Thought we’d stick them to some mdf to make a door and build a frame. Is this a ridiculous idea? Will this door make up work? If so, would 20mm mdf work or thinner? And should we face the door on both sides for balance? Any joiners willing to offer advice please? And please feel free to shoot the idea down if it’s rubbish! Thanks

We also dodged a few on the way to where we’ve ended up. In hindsight they were the wrong plots but it was upsetting and frustrating each time. Hang in there. Something will turn up. In our case, it was an empty bungalow on a road we never knew existed despite having lived less than a mile away and looking for the best part of 8 years. You’ll get something.