mike2016

How old is the unit - was the warranty uplifted (2 years to 6 if you register within 6 months I believe)? If a full power off (disconnect from power) doesn't resolve it then it does sound like a PCB issue. Any power surges recently?

Thanks - am currently looking at separate DHW and A2A solutions from the same company for the new house.

I'm deciding how to finish two areas of my house and wondered if I can use a hardware faced plywood in both cases. Should I add plasterboard into the mix to provide some fire resistance? Or do I layer up with OSB/Plasterboard/Plyood? The Hardwood faced ply may be enough (18mm) and I like the look of wood for the finish of these features when the rest of this space is plasterboarded and painted. Both are in the same space - open plan living/kitchen area. I plan Bamboo Floors throughout. Oriel Window - Hardware Faced Ply around the inside of the window opening and then a cushion or two to sit when using this space, 1/2 dimmable led lights above for reading Window overlooking living area - Hardware Faced ply around the outside with iron on strips to cover edges and match hardwood. Inside OSB with plasterboard on top, painted, no extra lighting, just landing light. Soft bench to sit on / recline. I plan to install windows on the face and on the left side - no frames, I'll make beading to hold these myself and secure the glass inside them. The other openings will be closed off. So do I line everything with plasterboard (fireline or equivilent) and then finish or forgo the extra effort? Thanks!

Are you planning on dismantling one or just adding the heat output to warm your house? I've used one for 4 years. It does keep the Utility room nice and warm while running but you have to leave the door open as the humidity it puts out is too much for a small room to handle and like any heat pump you need a larger volume of air to draw from. Unless you are super passive it's only going to have a short term localized effect though. It does run in cycles of 2-3 hours so time it right and it could help, you just have to balance the noise with leaving the space open to the rest of the house. It can certainly help but not as much as a dedicated heating system.

Is it a single inverter with two strings? Inverters need a minimum voltage to generate power. Are they the same make and model of PV Panels? It feels like the West facing didn't hit the required voltage to generate much. If you can see the raw voltage data for each string it would tell you when they each start producing electricity. At what time of the year does this get really noticeable?

it will cost a lot more to retrofit an A2A / A2W system that you would save on the mortgage switching to a greener rate. Unless you are selling and there is a significant gain to having an A rated home, I'd say continue as you are. See what a heat pump cylinder would cost to install as though that takes longer to heat up the water it is much more efficient (heat pump is built into the top of the cylinder and needs two vents to outside). That might improve the SAP enough but will save you more money on hot water heating, best return?

I've always just used a normal bulb but switched to one that has a flame effect last time I changed it.

The slab is over 8 months old at this point and no wet trades due for some time. It's just a bit cold working there but I can wrap up more. Was curious what heating options would work best but humidity isn't a concern just yet. Maybe I do need to air the place a bit more though despite the cold if 80% is a bit too high?

No Chimney! That's another good option though. I think the condenser humidifiers have issues < 10oC.

Thanks All. I used to have an old oil free radiator, will have a look to see if it's still in storage, good idea. Didn't think about humidity - it's up around 80% currently......looks like dessicant models work best at the temps I'm at but are pricey @ €200+. Only have a 2kW battery on site when I'm not there, no temporary mains as yet.

I've a portable gas heater in storage and I was wondering with all the frost if I could use it in the self build. Everything is sealed in the house but I believe gas is a wet heat and I don't want excessive moisture build up as there is no ventilation working yet. Just would take the edge off the cold at the weekends. Has anyone done this / got any advice? Thanks!

Finally back to 100% and starting Pilates this week. Brought in the first load of 2x6's from the driveway 30/100 so 70 to go but setup some saw horses to create a conveyor belt of sorts and get these in before the frost hits hard. Not that it will go much harm to the wood but still.

I had similar site inspectors including one half way up the roof looking in the velux rooflights!! Very cheeky of them! Scaffolding is down so they have to content themselves with outside inspections from now on...!! Much colder these days, best of luck with your build too!!

He travelled to Dublin for my Kore raft foundation sign-off.

Sure, there are a few self build insurance companies depending on your location. This is separate to the mortgage life insurance though as far as I'm aware, at least in my case. I had to shop around quite a bit but google and you'll find a few - they'll need details to apply and see if they will quote / cover you depending on the specifics of your build. Some of the big insurers do this and there are other specialist insurers or you can go through a broker.

I was trying to motor on at 50% but the last delivery did me in! Now aiming for 100% before I pull in some help and keep an early warning eye out for any issues and have a plan to tackle them at that point. Much better today but still finding getting out of the car an issue.

Great job Susie. Looking forward to further updates on the build!

That looks like a slightly scary prop for the ridge steel but I'm sure it's ok!! Just don't slam the door too much!!!! Great work and hope you're enjoying the paddling pool! We had to knock out a corner of the foundation as it was taking too long to brush out a hole we'd drilled which would get clogged up fast. The soil pipes weren't cut down at that point. Hopefully no ducks made their home there?! It's those calculations and little gaps that can cause such headaches, well managed though!

Not posted an update in a while but was focused on getting the outside of the house rendered, painted, guttered and drill vented before the scaffolding came down. It was off hire on a Monday and I worked 11-12 hours days on the Saturday and Sunday to get through a few tasks including chain drilling the MVHR vents (2) among other things. Basically anything at height. Anyway, while peeling the masking tape off the soffit while lying down on my side I moved to all fours to get up and my back went into spasm! I was still able to move around but the next day it was sore. Off I went to the Chiropractor the next day and he thankfully sorted me out. A few weeks later and I was putting the floor down in the new attic and again lying down while slightly propping myself up to secure the T&G OSB with screws and I felt my back get sore. The next day again I was in agony and off to the Chiro the next day. The following week I took a different approach to finish the attic, very carefully, and remaining standing on the ladder all the time working backwards towards the hatch opening. Thankfully this avoided any further injury and I completed the task. Fast forward a few weeks later and I visited my mum, contracted covid and while propped up in bed the OTHER side of my back went. And this was no fun. No Chiro for me while testing positive (had to wait another 7 days) and it really set itself in. As soon as I tested negative I booked in to the Chiro but despite two visits it was still sore. I could do a 1/2 day at the weekend and a good nights sleep could repeat but it was hindering me. I'd booked 30 x 2x4 and 100 2x6 for delivery this week before the latest episode and had taken the week off work. After they arrived on Tuesday (I insisted on a HIAB thankfully so they could be dropped inside my boundary where I could secure it) I moved the thirty 2x4's inside but felt my back beginning to go again. I lay down but it was getting worse so I covered the remaining lumber and headed home. A few bad days to follow. I tried one Physio my neighbour recommended on Wednesday but it didn't shift the slow, gradual healing along much. I tried Panadol, Ibuprofen, even CBD oil but nothing was helping. I went to a local Physio yesterday and have received some treatment and exercises so I'm resigned to 2-3 months of recovery (my estimate, not theirs) to make sure this is really healed but start Pilates as soon as the Physio says I'm ready. I've been resting up all week and just have to accept I'm the weakest link! In an 18 month project so a few weeks isn't that much but I'd hoped to crack on this week after covid etc. Not to be!! Yeah, so take care of yourselves, especially if you are solo. I've accomplished so much over the last 10 months to get here, it was just one deadline where I pushed my body too hard and am now paying the price. It was a fear of mine but now its here I'm just going to rest, get back to work, wait for my back to be comfortable again (it's still sore) and take things easy for a while (I can plan electrical, home automation etc in the meantime!). How do people in their 60's even do this?!! I'm in my 50's and finding it hard! Fair play to those folks!! Anyway, Off to lie down, I'll call a few favours to get the lumber indoors when I fell I can help at least a little and only tackle jobs when I have a good back regime in place. I reckon it's 8 more months to finish. Can't wait!!!

No mancave in the basement?! Looks impressive though!

What I'm hoping to do is link up the AICO smoke/heat detector network to home assistant and have a power circuit via a Shelly Relay I can turn off to kill the MVHR unit in the event of a fire. So at least the MVHR fans aren't spreading the smoke. I would like an intumescent vent in each room but not sure if they are compatible with the system I'll be using. BPC have some here you could consider: https://www.bpcventilation.com/metal-fire-protection-valve-supply

The Architect originally specified a drainage channel across the top of the driveway. There is a 0.5 meter drop to the house. The road has a slight dip and the excess water always tends to flow down the estate rather than over the threshold of the new driveway. Now construction at this area could change this behaviour but should I move the drainage channel to in front of the house, or keep it at at the top of the driveway? Or even do both?! Thoughts? Parted ways with the Architect. Thanks.

Sure, a standard two piece where one runs inside the other and you can vary the length. The key is managing risk and safety. How are you with heights? Search YouTube for the essential craftsman video on ladders, I learned some great basic tips there. Have a spotter the first few times to secure the base and supervise. Don't climb alone.

If you just want to to clean them out what about a gutter cleaner & extension wand for a power washer? Do it all from the ground, Safer. If repairs are needed then a two part ladder with a standoff but I wouldn't like to mess around with resting it against that glass or trust resting it on a spongy gutter climbing up and down. Tricky. You can hire a van that has a bucket in the back for a day but unlikely to help around the back. Or just pay the local leaflet crowd who do the cleaning for you? There's always someone offering those services around the area.

Just caught up watching the episode. Awesome job and what a result! Can only imagine the fears and worries building something of that scale! Hats off to both of you, what a team! Hope you get to give a talk at a self build exhibition someday. You would be inspiring to listen to.