mike2016

This Winter has been a real struggle for me aswell. Moved in November and felt I've done little since. It's the little wins and even tidying up and moving stuff around, searching for that specific box of screws and keep chipping away. I've just finished the living room and will head over to my sisters to get my couch, kitchen table and chairs out of storage soon. Was hoping to put a push in this weekend but other family priorities have crept up. Vitamin D3 1000ug daily throughout the year (helps my immunity and fighting SAD), weekly Pilates and a bed to lie down on when I'm tired and watch a bit of YouTube/Netflix has helped but the hours can easily flow by and another day is over. Doing small things as others have said really helps. I've been trying to sell some tools but having mixed success but even 1 sold is money back in the pot. Also treat yourself to something you like doing not building related! I get a massage once in a while, haven't been out cycling or hiking since I started though but even a walk around the area can breath some fresh air into old heads and tired backs!! I'm lucky I usually work from home so I can sneak in some small jobs / planning during the day too when it's quiet. I've 10 years left though and the job scene is also a worry but what can you do?! I booked a holiday for two weeks in May, my first since I started building two years ago so there's a goal to aim for!

Great job! Exciting to be moving in soon! What's the plan for the hob extraction in the kitchen?

I've a split Air to Air Heat Pump system to heat my house. There's a header in each bedroom and one for the open plan living/dining area. I've had the unit on a timer for an hour in the morning for the open plan area only and I'll sometimes top up my bedroom in the morning when I'm working from home. I top up the heat for 1-2 hours in the evening manually in the open plan room. I'm not heating the upstairs currently and am still finishing the internal house so there's an open internal window to the open plan area to contend with still which loses heat to the landing/hallway and upstairs although I keep those doors closed which helps. This is the open plan area: Same Space - Longer Period: My Bedroom: Just wanted to ask should I be running the A2A more like underfloor and leave it set to 21/22 & on constantly or just on a timer? I'm treating it like a gas boiler at the moment!! I've a separate hot water heat pump cylinder I leave on all the time so it's always @ 55oC so hot water isn't a factor with the space heating. Interested in advice / ideas / experiences others have with a similar system? Thanks.

KS430 lift and slide here - the fixed section seals pictured below: My seal seems thinner to yours but is smoother. Sliding section seals are identical:

I put 47mm back boxes in everywhere also. I've Aico wired smoke / heat alarms but in the utility I had the sparks install an Aico radiolink relay with an 8 core to go to my alarm panel eventually. That's my HA point of integration. The alarms are powered with a 4 core mains cable with the 4th being the command and control circuit. I'm also replacing Hikvision NVR and cameras with unifi setup and that has a smoke alarm detection feature so I'll get a push notification if I'm not at home until I get the alarm panel wired up (Konnected Pro - HA integrated with Alarmo). For the Kitchen LEDs there are four strips - 1 on top of the upper units, two below the upper units each side of the extract and one more at the front of the island. I was able to drive all of these with just a single driver and use zigbee controllers on each. The under cabinet at just white, the others are RGBW. Really like them. I leave them switched "on" all the time at the light switch (dumb 4 gang currently) and have a remote button and a automation schedule to light them up at night. I bought profiles with the package and they just glue onto the surface. Or I add some pinkgrip as required. The LED in the stairs bannisters is in a routed channel, the company nicely took care of that after I supplied them the dimensions. It's wicked as I've glass directly below it. Have my eye on an oem tablet to put in the kitchen, poe powered and drop a kiosk Home Assistant dashboard on that. I've two buried CAT6a cables I can use for that behind the wall. Not doing any water controls but have a leak sensor in place and the water pump is now on a smart plug. I had an issue for the last month with a noise waking me up at 4-5am and it was the water pump kicking in for 5 seconds from the other side of the house. It seems my MVHR duct is going to need a silencer! Anyway, I could setup an automation to power off the pump if the leak detector trips. I've no gas and Sigenergy Gateway & Batteries for power cuts. Still a lot of integration and automations to do - but it's a work in progress and for a techie like me, great fun!

I got a few Aqara light switches to start with - they do Matter/Zigbee and take a neutral which is what I was after. The fixings/screws were tiny, the electrician dealt with them but not as robust as I'd like. I have a standard 3 gang switch in the hallway which does porch, hallway and landing, I just bought some zemismart matter wifi smart switches (3 gang) and plan to replace this with one of them so I can trigger the porch light when my doorbell sees me. The others I'll install in my bedroom / elsewhere as even though there's only 1 light I can use the other switches to trigger an automation and do something else. I had a long look around other light switches, the aqara dimmer one is really nice, the two gang above not so much, looks flimsy but is working well enough, zemismart TBC. I've a 4 gang switch in the living room, but no one seems to be making smart ones of these. Something for down the road! Getting switches to fit UK back boxes can also be tricky. I have a smart screen but it needs a EU backbox - but that doesn't fit behind plasterboard! The zemi below has perfect screwhole placement though for a single gang: I bought a zemi roller blind motor but it was 28mm and the blocout blind I got for my bedroom is 32mm. I found a 3d model on the web and printed it the local library but it didn't adapt correctly. Instead I purchased a couple of Aqara roller shade E1 drivers. I fitted this a few days ago and have the automation working fine tied to the sunup and sundown times. Must change it before the Spring!! It's a heavy blind but works well so far. I'll do the same with the other blinds as I buy them. Would have preferred the driver inside the roller itself but this is the next best thing. I have vertical blinds on a cord for the kitchen and even though there's no beads, just a string, this product can apparently handle them. I just can't find the other 4 E1's I bought, probably in a box somewhere.....!!! I've Luxor Perfect Fit honeycomb blinds for privacy and then the blackout blind for total immersion in the summer! I went with a load of Shelly Relays for the floodlights, towel rails and stairs LED but Sonoff for other things - presence detection, PIR, Door Sensor, push button remote, water sensor. It's been an interesting mix. I've two presence detectors in the bathrooms, one gets me in the shower 99% of the time behind the glass. There's no room door currently and when I exit the front door it triggers also which is weird. I don't expect it to penetrate plasterboard - I'll know more after the door goes on but it's facing into the bathroom so unlikely to pick anything beyond that I would think? Not sure of a use case for it....! I use a unifi poe to usb dingle to power it which is neat inside a double gang backbox and a blanking plate! Retrofit is a bit different to new builds so I get the need to keep things familiar. You really need smart switches to deal with legacy users. All my bulbs are non smart / traditional - they just dim etc. If you find a nice switch it's an easy win. It's the LED's around the kitchen etc that have more options / control requirements that need more than a switch can provide. I've only automated some lights to on / off via presence detection but I want to get it to dim the lights in the wee hours when they come on, that would be really nice. I was able to CAT6a around the house which worked well. I have a few smart sockets in strategic places that will come into their own in the coming months. I can move these around as I figure things out. Sometimes just a double socket with USB is fine. Just bought a raspberry pi and mounted a monitor in my room so I can put my cctv picture up there and turn it off at night but have a push button to turn it on if I get an alarm. I've hikvision cameras and NVR but looking to move to unifi as I can't get the HA integration to work so I can trigger floodlights etc on people detection / line crossing. That said I did get the tumble dryer to send me a notification last night for the first time when the load had finished! Some success, some head scratching. I also want Sonos voice alerts but haven't figured that out yet either! Really happy with the HA Dashboard though! I'll post an update in a few months here around HA stuff and any questions let me know. New to this myself too!

I probably missed the option when ordering. It was only after it arrived I went "oh"! Ah well, telescopic ladder in the shed for my Velux entry into my 80's lies ahead!!

That's actually a really smart idea!! Thanks!!

I've had two composite doors, one was slam shut and no choice in the matter (previous house). My current Internorm door has a toggle that lets you set it to either which is really nice. I deleted a door in my build phase and the lift and slide from internorm has no way to open from outside when fully closed so I've only 1 way in and out & am hesitant about getting locked out as there's no plan b except burrowing in somewhere!

So living in the house for the past month and a bit has allowed me to ease off the pressure a bit and start snagging / finishing some of the details. I have underfloor heating under the main bathroom tiles but it wasn't working well. Barely noticeable at 40oC !! Turns out the electrician wired in both temperature sensors and it was adding the values together so after Schluter tech support suggested I check - I removed one pair of wires, lo and behold I have a warm floor. Really nice experience but uses about 2.5kW for an hours worth of heat. One advantage is it warms the room and as I'm still waiting on the bathroom door this keeps it more comfortable than it had been first thing in the morning. I've set a schedule using the app and the controller connects it online via wifi. Working well now! Alongside this I've a load of sensors and smart lights, switches and sockets around the house. Now I'm in a position to setup Home Assistant for the first time and figure out what I want it to do. I setup an initial dashboard to organise the myriad of sensors and entities and allow me easier monitoring and control. Work in progress but have a look at the setup below! I've still to figure out Daikin integration (The app works fine, just nice to have more data / energy usage in one place) and get my Sonos text alerts to work but I'm making progress. I have older Hikvision cameras but the integration for that isn't working yet. I wanted to use human detection to trigger security lights front and rear but for now I'm using the smart doorbell out front and might use a contact sensor on the rear lift and slide door to rig something up - otherwise newer cameras might make things easier but I'm not giving up yet! There's a lot you can do with Home Assistant besides automating lights - one of the rewards of building your own house just as you like it!! A lot of the newer appliances come with some type of smart integration but sometimes you don't want them all spying on you so just a smart socket that tells you when power usage drops to zero for more than 5 minutes is enough to warn you that the washing / drying cycle is finished in a notification message you can choose and hear. I've a couple of sockets that can do exactly this! I've start selling off some of the left over items as I don't need them anymore and have had some success. I can see more easily what I'll need and use now than I did before. Some of my appliances survived storage some didn't but I've ended up replacing everything at this point and registered 5 year warranties where available to maximize returns. One less headache! Over Christmas the plan is to finish the living room so I can sell the scaffolding tower and move the last of my furniture in. I put the sheeting on the rear oriel window and bought some cushions / edging and a blanket so it's suitable for reading a book / relaxing in. The bottom edge is already getting frayed so I'll need to source something tougher to withstand punishment. Next project is finishing the internal window at the landing that overlooks the living room. Got a price of €900 for the glazing - I'm blocking off the right side but will have a small window on the left in addition to the big main window. Again, there's a seat up there to perch on with a book and relax in and a double socket at your feet to plug a charge / light into etc. I've only 2 areas left to plasterboard, the vaulted ceiling in the living area and the landing/stairwell. Hope to give these a good shot over Xmas and then settle on filling, sanding, priming and painting in January. That camera faces the kitchen in the picture above to let me monitor any pots from boiling over when I cook! Also if I'm away and the fire alarm goes off and I get a notification I can check the internal cameras for the likely course so see if it's just smoke or fire! The only mystery now is a noise from somewhere at 4:45am every morning that wakes me up. My EV car is parked outside my bedroom window so I suspect that's the source but it only lasts 3 seconds so I might have to set my alarm early and record it but it's just SO early when you have work the next day.....

My intake is metal but has big enough holes My supplier recommended against any insect screen to prioritize air flow. Stops the fan demanding more power and providing less air to the house due to the blockage that can build up. Will need to clean the intake duct every few years. The insect screen will not filter dust, just insects. Depends where you live I guess, risk of bee hives? Not heard of any.....

I've a single washing machine waste outlet but it's not big enough to take both the washing machine and the tumble dryer discharge pipes and a condensate drain (A2A). I bought a discharge outlet and added it into the side of the existing pipe but it leaked like crazy when the washing machine discharged. I went to a plumber merchants hoping to buy some pipe and solvent to create a branch and have two upright pipes and get rid of the side adapter I installed but the pipe is not a standard size. The 32/40mm fittings won't work. Has anyone got any good ideas to create a better branch and avoid multiple p traps etc? One other problem is the drain connects to the sink in the bathroom the other side of the wall and it gurgles when the washing discharges. Can this be fixed? Thanks all!

Last night was my first night sleeping in my new house, finally! Got 1 bedroom mostly finished. Ikea wardrobes, painted, blind and floor installed. Just enough to call it a home! Lots more to do but it saves rent and commuting time. I plan to take it easy for the next fortnight as the last two years have been creeping up on me. Small projects for the short term. Getting internal doors installed (by someone else!) currently. Put some acoustic insulation around the linings and cut it back. I like the look of the wood/oak veneer. Been chasing documentation for the BER (SAP) assessor. It adds up to quite a lot. Doors, Windows, Heating systems, section plans, U value calcs. Think I have all of it now - hopefully they'll issue a BER Cert soon! My airtightness commission went sideways, lots of leaks. So one of my snags is to put air tightness tape around all the ducts to the MVHR unit and outdoors and also between it and the manifolds. The testing unit is very sensitive (even dropping it puts it out of commission for two weeks!) so I've a bit of work to do before I call them back. The Renson Endura Delta 330 has a few levels of ventilation and they upped the minimums from 50m3/hr to 127. Will see with single occupancy if I adjust this down a bit. I can monitor the unit with an app only, there's no display. I noticed when I ran the supersayer gas heater for a few hours to warm the house (as the gas bottles had been unused for the last two years) the CO2 levels hit the roof and it went to max flow rate to clear it out. Anyway, I plan to use the Air to air system more going forward and that won't cause the same issue. Had two floods to deal with. I've a japanese bath I was trying out. We'd filled the bath with a little water to check for leaks a few weeks ago and it drained fine. The bath is on a platform to allow for a trap to be installed below it. The drain for the bath just fits into a grill so it's open and can potentially overflow which is what happened after I fully filled it, used it and two days later pulled the plug! Luckily I put the plug back in and used towels to keep the water in the bathroom as it's tanked / is a wetroom so no damage was caused to the rest of the house. There is a seat in the bath so I was trying to get the most comfortable position and removed the seat. I'll probably put it back as it's a short bath and my back didn't like the sitting position on the floor of that bath all scrunched up. The seat means you only get heat around your hips so will have to have a think about it more at some stage. Or get a bigger bath! The second incident was with the washing machine last night. The discharge pipe isn't big enough for the tumble dryer, air to air condensate and the washing machine so I got an adapter that taps into the side of the pipe with a spigot for the washing machine discharge. This didn't seal/hold so it spilled everywhere. I think I'll go back to basics, replace that section of pipe and glue on a y bend to create two parallel discharge pipes and this way I can get everything connected at once and no risk of floods! My car charger won't reach the car as it's about a meter short but that's due to a big hole I've to backfill with MOT. The dust is everywhere but at least with the internal doors I can mitigate this a bit going forward! So not finished yet but I have a doorbell, hot water, heating and an amazing house to walk around in and rest a bit before finishing the final list of projects and call it a day!

I want to place the tumble dryer over the washing machine in my new utility room. I've a suitable countertop purchased from IKEA but need to make legs out of some left over 2x8 lumber. I just wanted to know what's the best way to protect the wood where is rests on the tile to avoid spills damaging it? I've treated timber I could lay on the floor and put the 2 x 8 legs on top of but maybe painting and some end treatment would work as good? Any suggestions welcome. I've to build around some pipes etc so an off the shelf structure won't work without a lot of holes...! Hence the 2 x 8 as legs. I thinking white paint all around?

ignore - found this thread - will see what expanding foam I have handy!

I've a few 4" pipes for running services outside and now I'm sealing up I want to tackle this area before my final air tightness test. I was looking at Wiska Gel or similar, can any solicone be used or is there a safer type for electrical cables - I've a 4" plug sealing the pipe but the cable holes have gaps I want to gel up if possible. Thanks.

Thanks Nick! Measured it a few years ago and it was just under 4 bar max but it drops a lot at peak and there's 1,000 of new houses being added to the system since: All the new houses have a pump at least, must ask my plumber why they fit this as standard now?

Summer nearly over?!! That was quick! Weather has been brilliant though! So where are we 2 months on? Here we go: Bathrooms are tiled and ready for plumbing the fixtures in. The plumber returned briefly and I now have a working toilet! Portaloo returned! Just no running water, well kinda! I got the water connected to the mains but it's not plumbed upstairs or anywhere yet. I put a speedfit valve on the 25mm mpde mains coming into the house so I can at least use it to fill buckets, barrels etc and cart it upstairs to flush the loo!! I got an offer of an upgraded Rendon MVHR unit but didn't realize it was as humungous as it was! Took a bit of work, a ramp and air bags to get it mostly into position. They didn't include the suspension bracket so that's on the way and will let me properly install it so we have access to both condensate drains at the bottom. There's a toilet and wash basin going into this room shortly..... I've been prepping for the kitchen install next - fully painting that end of the open plan room and marking studs, printing photos of cable locations and prepping the floor: I'm gluing down the bamboo floor shown. Should finish this tomorrow. I've some ratchet straps in place to keep the boards tightened overnight. The glue is really tacky - going through wipes and gloves at a fast rate!! The kitchen units were just delivered. I'm going with a green door and gold handles to complement the yellow bamboo floor and stone countertops/backsplash. I had to pour a concrete base for the outdoor air to air unit which looks after space heating. There are 4 indoor units connected to it - one is shown above in the bedroom alongside the kitchen presses! I've installed a bottle gulley in the center of the concrete pad to drain away any condensate. The headers can do heating or cooling and each have a remote. There's an app. The only thing is the remote doesn't show the current temp in the room, just the target temp you set. Also the units can do heating OR cooling, so if your significant other likes it at 26oC and you like it more around 19oC whoever sets it first wins, all others have to wait until the unit that's heating or cooling turns off before it can kick in - i.e. ambient 20oC , partner sets 26oC, you set 19oC later, your unit does nothing until unit in heating mode finishes, so yours can go into cooling mode. Makes sense, you just hide all batteries in the remotes except yours! Irish Water connected me up, a lot of bods turned up but they were finished at 3:30pm and connected me successfully. I was about to go to buy a water key but the one they installed has a plastic handle you turn so you don't need one! I had a chance to test it the next day but ran extra pipe outdoors just in case, glad I did. The valve I had bought wasn't a 90 degree open / close one, it requires ratcheting down to fully shut so it would have caused some damage until I realised that! Was very handy for mixing 8 bags of ready mix cement though! They come back to install a water meter later, nice of them! We don't get charged currently but it's a nasty topic and caused a lot of marches to get the Government to back down. Now we've a very expensive quango and no water fees! Great, huh?! (ROI) The Aquabox for the mains water arrived so I've been shuttling that around the ground floor until it's installed. That pumps water around the whole house and will be located downstairs in the utility room alongside the heat pump hot water cylinder I'm getting shortly (separate space heating/cooling & hot water systems). No injuries to report - Pilates is really helping the back. Still waiting on mains electrical, no date yet, 16 weeks is end September. Had a survey done a fortnight ago but nothing since. Hope to finally move in by November as the site insurance is up and 2 years in place, they may be reluctant to extend so I'm prioritizing items that must be finished before then vs ones that I can do later. Time is going by fast as as hard as I work there's always more that enough to do each evening and weekend. I've a weeks hols at the start of September so catch up and have a few days left I might take later that month but we'll see. Best of luck to everyone else with their projects. I don't know how to all do it!!! Or did it!! Onwards and upwards!

I've briese soliel but it required structural calcs and a steel window header to connect to (done as part of build). That said they worked brilliantly this year. Just check your warranty with windows supplier vs any film to make sure it doesn't invalidate it. Or plant tall trees!

With a few hot days I decided to plunge into fixing the outside drainage. These had been marked the wrong way around on the surveyors map which carried onto the Architects drawings which made its way into the construction drawings and the groundsworker dutifully connected up as per these last year. It was only a few months ago I noticed backflow of sewage in what I thought was the storm drain and discovered the difference between 4" sewer lines and 6" storm drain lines!! Unfortunately the 4,000 litre rainwater tank is already installed and the invert levels between the two systems are very close to each other so I was going to have to bring the rainwater overflow under the sewer line. That's what I started tackling today. The shores are to the left and the rainwater tank is to the right. The sewer is to the top of the picture so I can now connect that up next. I've also allowed for a direct feed into the storm drain from the front drains (more likely to get oil/car wash soap/contaminants in it) and the overflow from the rainwater filter (only 40% of the rear roof will make it into the tank through this filter, the rest is discarded via this overflow). The U bend might be hard to clean out later but I'm looking for a sump for the front aco drains to minimise sediment, similarly the rainwater filter should block leaf debris from the rear roof. The Wet Room work is being undertaken by a contractor so they have been hard at work all week. Just waiting on my plumber to finish a few bits and the tilers to get started. I've been painting the ceilings in advance so I don't mess up the tiles later and I've been asked to cover the marine ply boxing I've done with backer board 6mm so I'll do that shortly. I've also been busy using 2 tonnes of Fermacell, 100 one man boards (900mm x 1200mm) fitting out the 3 bathrooms and utility room. You install by placing, gluing, screwing, joint filling, fine surface finishing then priming and painting with some sanding thrown in. I bought a plasterboard lifter which has been great for the ceilings. Even these board sizes are over 19kg each. I'm getting better results as I go. The cutting is messy and playing havoc with my plunge saw and I've stocked up on vacuum bags and filters to help. I've multi tooled the sockets and holesawed the led lighting sockets without issue. Nice to see a room looking like a room and not a set of wooden partitions for a change! The collated screwgun has been a charm once I figured out I was accidentally setting it in reverse and it wasn't working! Very annoying for the first crucial screw per board! Stairs is ordered for July. Holding off on doors for now but considering one with a frosted glass center section for the main bathroom to let some light into the hallway. Kango'ing out the concrete for the downstairs shower was very tough on the guys. 3 days instead of 1 as the concrete was well cured. They stuck at it though fair play to them. Lots of dust! They also moved a drain so its no longer sticking out of the floor of the master bathroom so the finish will be improved. The tiling boss was over on Friday checking things over and keeps close tabs on the process. There was an issue with a Schluter heating cable being too long so rather than run it up the wall, I rush ordered a shorter one from the UK and have it on hand for next week. Will have to ebay the old one! You can't cut these to length and I'd rather not pay to heat a wall I don't want hot so that's how that went! Still discussing with the original supplier as the same kit was ordered for both bathrooms even though one is 1/2 the size. These things happen though and it was only picked up on this week as it's been sat in a box for months! Hindsight! The Brise Soleil have been amazing and I've had all windows and doors open all week to help with the heat but it's never climbed above ambient outside, some of the bathrooms can be a little hotter as the windows don't open and there no airflow there yet. So next is the tiling, more outside foul drain work, finish painting the Utility Room and then I plan to prep the kitchen area so it can be measured and ordered. The 6 meter high vaulted ceiling will be fun to plasterboard but will see how it goes. I think I'll need more Fermacell at the rate I'm going, I've lots of offcuts, saving them but who knows if they will be used or not. No date on delivery of mains water or electricity unfortunately but hopefully soon. Be nice to get some power, they don't do temporary supplies easily in Ireland....! That's it for this post!

I hate chasing companies to do their job and get me a quote too, often looking elsewhere and finding a better proposition to boot! Annoying though!

I purchased a bare DeWalt first fix nail gun after trying to drive a single nail into a 45 x 45 baton. Glad I did. I only made it 1/2 way in - maybe the nails were too large a gauge but wow. Been using the nail gun for months and haven't looked back. Why it made sense to me was I've 2 x 5.0 amp DeWalt batteries already and didn't need a case / charger etc. Unless you wait for the sales have you any existing big batteries for a particular brand? Otherwise look for a deal with 2 x large batteries and a cordless screwdriver and then go for the nail gun after that. the bare unit is €385 currently in screwfix for me (DeWalt). The nails aren't cheap but you get loads in a box for @ €50. Hope this helps. Since bought a second fix nailgun (bare) for the next phase!! For the number of nails involved, rent, buy or borrow!! The only downside is I now have tennis elbow from the weight of the gun!!

Great job - really at the coal face and making good progress!!

I took two weeks holidays to catch up on some house building work and get some material onsite. Sometimes that worked, sometimes not!! The Plumber has already been and performed most 1st fix items and I'm centralizing everything back to central manifolds: Should make replacing taps etc a lot easier in the future I hope!! I was outside during the recent sunny spell and noticed my Brise Soleil doing their thing - the shadow modelling looks spot on for this time of year: I got a digger and driver for a day to dig out the front driveway and had 20 tonnes of 804 delivered to prep for backfilling around the house and to grade the driveway subbase. I ran the Electrical and Water service pipes / conduits at this time. While I was upstairs I did 1st fix on the MVHR outside vents using 150mm EPS conduit, realized the 92mm radial pipes to the rooms are going to make access to the manifolds difficult for commissioning later (restrictor rings are placed inside the manifold, not at the outlet/inlet). Will have to cut an access hole to reach in from the other side, will post pics once all is in place and hope it works! Will be a big of a spaghetti junction once everything is connected up! 4 pallets of tiles arrived but I had help from the merchant with those but I got a phone call that my plasterboard was arriving the day after. The Buildhub favourite - Fermacell !!! I hear your screams!! The only problem is how do I handle these on my own? A full size board is over 40 kgs, nearing 50, I'm over 50 and not that strong! So I ordered one man boards 900mm x 1200mm and it took a few weeks but I have 400 boards onsite, there's 50 per Pallet and 5 pallets arrived day 1 and 3 on day 2. Weather was thankfully good throughout. I purchased a plasterboard hoist for installation but I also needed to move them inside to keep them dry and safe. I googled and bit and found a wonderful DeWalt trolley and successfully moved 2 tonnes of Fermacell per day (each pallet is just under 1000 kgs!) 4 days later job done! About 5 boards per run was my limit, you need to keep an eye on the vertical alignment as you load up and offload or it will fall over, but as you move it the side clamp the sheets and it's rock solid. Perfect for brining them side in as at 900mm wide my old truck/trolley wouldn't let them past my front door, this dolly however made the heavy lifting much easier! I had to visit my Chiro one evening on day 1 but that was it! I've acoustic insulation arriving tomorrow hopefully, I'm ordering Luxaflex honeycomb blinds for tilt and turn windows on just one bedroom to see how they look / perform and how they fit. My window installer didn't recommend anything that inserts into the rubber seal, preferring limited drilling/screws or ideally 3m glue fixings. To find out which they use as the youtube video I saw showed gluing them on. Electrician 1st fix starts in a week so I've to get the MVHR vents in place as it's easier for him to route wire around vent pipes than it is for me to reroute 92mm vent pipe after electrical is run. I'm still digging out the sewer line to connect it to the correct outlet/shore and fix the fall. Tried getting a labourer for a day or two to help but failed. It's slow hard going but I'll get there! My site insurance runs out shortly so I've to extend that and plan for socket locations, figure out landing lighting (electrician doesn't like led fixtures in the service void beside the insulation) and get to grips with Fermacell in earnest!! Happy May 2025 !! Oh, and I went to see Warfare in the Cinema for a well earned rest!!

Good point - I'm querying this with the supplier to see if there are studies / recommendations as smoke is my worry rather than fire. I'm going to opt for battery powered smart blinds so they will work even in a power outage / fault as I want to ensure the bedroom escape route through them is available as the blackout blinds have tracks either side so could be difficult to rip open if smoke gets into the bedroom without a tool / torch etc. Plus smart switches to turn on all the bedroom lights if power exists to help light the way down the stairs or find the smart blind remote control to get out the window onto the porch roof. I'm doubting much benefit for oxygen control / combustion, but positive pressure to keep smoke out of the bedrooms would be welcome except if its possible for an extract or other bedroom to start propagating smoke to other areas through the MVHR unit or manifold (nightmare scenario: no light, no power, blinds down, can't find controls to blinds and stairs blocked by smoke/flame, smoke coming in supply vent into bedroom, retreat into ensuite but all my ensuites have no windows openings so it's wet a blanket time and run or rip open the blind and jump). I think I've watched backdraft too many times!! I'm sure you can, or your calendar linked to an IFTT response, if detect temps > 600oC on the phone, pop a reminder the next day to check the MVHR filter!! If you can find it in the rubble of the house!