albert

OK great I did try and search but no whiz on computer. Thanks

Sorry slow response. its my own time saver! On the plumb cut of your rafter rater than site the rafter on top of the GL and cut all those plumb and seat cuts we ping a line on the side of the GL and nail on hangers at spacing's. We then cut all our rafters ( we gang cut all at same time in one pass) and on the plumb cut we run a cut through the plumb cut at 90 degs as a seat to the hanger usually 40-50 deep at the correct rafter depth. its quick and neat and also gets the GL in the roof cassette if head height is needed or the gl is a big one. if its very wide and the first batten needs to be higher then theres a bit more faffing. Get you SE to approve the detail first. for us its a job the unskilled lads can do nailing hangers leaving the carps to cut and fit quickly. We also designed a GL system that my BCO approved the other day that is a real obvious one and I had never thought of it before. but is so useful in loft conversions. We use graded structural ply to make a GL rafter either side of a new opening, usually velux. rather than stripping the roof we use 2.4m sections of 25mm graded ply to make the GL rafter under the roof covering . can be any size , and go over existing purlins. laminate with PU glue and gang nail to desired strength . roof fully trimmed out under the existing felt ready for roofer to turn up as and when. check with your SE first but Its not difficult to calc roof loads and get the beams signed off. I wish I'd thought of it years ago!!

My parents are considering self building an extension to their house with a view to selling it and down sizing. We are trying to work through the CIL aspect. Even the planning consultant is unsure exactly how this system works. Its clear there is a formal process to be adhered to but I'm thinking we should involve a professional to make sure its right. The CIL due is significant and will determine if the project is viable or not. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys I'm also yet to confirm my roof product on a contemporary build. Looked at tata but expensive looked at the rubber standing seam, but going back to standard CLad Co box profile. I've used it on a load of jobs. check out photos on our web site if you interested. www.instahaus.com but I think looks pretty good for fraction of the cost. We are still working on the sound issue but will check out this marley product as an option as the cement fiber is definitely a better performer on this issue.

the surface mounted system works great IF your masonry and plastering are spot on if not it can look bad and need a lot of work to make it look right. you can set your fascia wherever you like really . you don't always need a soffit and an exposed rafter tail looks great in some instances but the carpentry needs to be spot on again. you don't need to cut the offsets down for your down pipe just pull the down pipe to one side or the other when using wall mounted fascia. Unless you you don't like that detail but I think it looks fine. hope that helps. You'll see a lot of exposed rafter tails on Oak frame buildings if you google that. Big soffit overhangs are useful to protect cladding and joinery in some cases

I have had the same problem this week on a garage, planners want proposed FFL Ordnance datum. There is no OBM nearby. I am competent with a dumpy lever and able to use change points etc but don't want to pay for a topo survey if I can avoid it. I have replied with levels from existing house FFL.

OK I've decided to go with Biopure very helpfull and good back up on phone if needed. Im going with a bio pure 3 and plan to install under building regs binding rules. I am unsure as this rule is unclear on distance the plant should be located from the ditch if it is discharging directly into it. 10m is stated if you use a soakaway so would assume 10m for tank would be OK. Many thanks

Lamisell are very good here in the SW We have a hanger system that is super quick if your cutting the roof to it and the engineer will allow you to use hangers from the ridge beam.

Thanks for that readiescards Im still to make a final decision.

Thank you very much.

Ok great as I thought. I will make up a shopping list when I get five min and a rough diagram of my understandings. Maybe you would be kind enough to add you thoughts. I will ring SW Water for a refund of my connection fee as we were going to start digging this week. !! Could I be rude and ask, as there is a slim chance of me passing your area later in the month whether I could take a look at your system and buy you a pint for your generous time. Thanks again

I will need to supply a new pump but not a massive cost I think. the RWL is about 1200-1400 mm below FFL of the house approximately

Achieving the correct PH is a trial and error or can this be calculated? Considering I need a better pump is a submersible the best bet? Would I be better erecting a shed over the actual well itself? Id like the one pump to service the untreated water need /tanks and the drinking domestic water. I assume I can set up a demand type valve to do this as well.

OK great so its still do-able that's great. £600 ish for the Aquamandix and air kit. That's just my connection fee . So my water treatment bunker rather thank shed as it will be underground could house all this kit for £1000 -1500 ish ??(for the tech kit alone)

The existing pump is not for keeping as its just a standard submersible. I am happy to pay for a good quality pump Grunfoss??I think i have used before. In answer to your post no I don't have suitable pump in place currently. PS .I regularly travel to the US with big suitcase( usually for dirtbike parts) so US parts are easy to source for me. Thanks G

Ah yes PH is 5.6!! I will test again as this was 12 months ago now. It was a while ago I looked in to things, I now recall that I may need to correct this, but I don't think was a big problem.

It's a 5 bed but only 2 of us maybe 3/4 in future. We're not wastful with water . There's 3 bathrooms and a shower room. Most of the water usage will be on the horses but that's not needing treatment and best run as a seperate system I think. if you allowed 1-2 baths / showers a day that would cover our personal needs I think.

Thankyou for this JSH I'm not on site today but will check my PH as soon as I'm back. No doubt you have already saved me much research and time already.

The magnesium levels are just about within WHO regs but not uk regs . Do you need an annual gov water test as this it appears is another cost to include.

Sorry JSH I didn't see your post earlier . I'll check when I get home on the ph but yes water co s that I have tried all came back expensive and not brilliant. I already have the well and the water so yes very interested in your system . I have to mole under 2 small roads to get to the main so the cost is not insignificant even doing it ourselves . Can you give me a ball park on cost to set up your treatment system. It sounds perfect. Could I set this up in a shed separate from the actual house as I need water asap and have promised the wife drinking water !! Thanks great information again.

HI Nick that sounds like a very good plan. The 5000lts tank was to build up storage capacity on what is relatively small well, although this was before I had resigned to make the connection to mains as back up. ( I have animals here as well but thinking aloud maybe best to pump to the tank for them and use gravity,) What sort of cost are we talking for these accumulators? The well is actually only 5 m from near the build site so these would work well as I'm sure i could pump @ 3 bar over a short distance like that. The current set up is very a heathrobinson temporary rig and in no way permanent. Great info, many thanks.

Ok Thanks, good luck.

Hi my contract plumber is great on new build and installations but not great on thinking outside of this. I am looking to firm up my ideas on utilizing my water options on my new build site. I have an existing well that i have tested for water quality and supply over the past 2 years, both are good. Supply is very good, water is always clear and water tests are good other than high manganese levels.(408 ug/l) I explored the options of filtering this water for drinking water standard and the cost was prohibitive over my £620 connection charge to the water main. I was proposing to use the metered mains for drinking water and my free water for everything else. I am aware that manganate causes problems with pumps and copper and was proposing filling my heating system and re-pressurizing from the main when needed. I was aiming to use plastic throughout the build and run my showers baths WCs washing machines etc off the well water. I have inspected pipe work that has been in place on site for 10-15 years for signs of furring but although there is discoloration( black) that is it. I have been running a small "log cabin" on site on this water for over 12 months with no problems with any pumps. As I have not connected to the mains as yet the UF heating and oil boiler are also running this water without problem so far. The well water is currently pumped to a 1000 ltr tank and then gravity feeds with the assistance of a shower pump to the cabin. The shower pump achieves 1.5 bar at the boiler at it works well. For the house I would like to pump much higher to a bigger tank (5000lts) for some degree of storage. I understand 10m of head will only give me 1 bar so I think I will still need a pump to pressurize the water. Is there a way I can create storage and good pressure without pumping the water twice. It would be easy to just connect to mains but I have a resource that I would like to use. I also know the hot and cold pressure needs to be equal so both hot and cold non drinking water may as well be from the well. I was planning on having a bypass valve that I can revert the whole system to mains should we have a severe drought. Due to costs heating will initially be via an oil fire boiler , wet UF heating throughout both floors (with log burners in kitchen living and master bedroom.) Provision will be made for upgrading to ground source or wood chip at a later date. There is a possibility we may install a dark metal roof over a very large area and I was considering running a very basic solar gain system beneath these roof sheets in order to lift the hot water temp a few degrees. Is this a silly idea or worth a go as the cost should be minimal. I would appreciate your thoughts on any of the above. Many Thanks.

Thanks for the info. looks good. Any views on the rain noise issue having used both?

Hi Lizzie Interested in the single ply membrane you mention as I am also in a high wind area, and I am concerned re noise of metal roof. How does it compare cost wise to the Tata product, which does look very nice on the above job. I haven't ruled out steel but checking out my options. Many thanks.