albert

The company is called Euroclad product is VIEO. I have not looked at it or followed it up any further but will report back my findings. Ah !!same company as you visited above can I ask why you went with Tata in the end? Deeside from Devon that is keen! Hope you are pleased with it.

Ok Thanks so I could use it and blow it in from the top of the roof structure. Nice tidy job by the way.

Nice Job looks Smart.

Forgot to add I am building the Q as a self build which has some more relevance to this site. I've done one self build before many years ago. The only difference for us is tha VAT set up and actually paying for it ourselves!!!

Hi Yes I have approval and starting soon. I'm north Devon/Somerset. Wellington Tiverton area. Yes I hope I can answer some questions for people when I'm in the office. Thanks

Thanks Ill take a look.

Having looked at the cellulose I can not see how it would work in a low build up system as you have to pump it into small voids. This could leave cold spots if there is an obstruction. the R value is similar to a rockwool slab per 100mm I feel would be better off using a combination or acoustic slab and celotex in layers to achieve thermal and acoustic needs.

What is the minimum depth I can use the blown cellulose at and how does it compare on cost? It sounds expensive. I have access for bulker blower trucks.

yes I'm with you in PU insulation we fill our houses with it and have you ever seen it burn it actually burns very well at any point where the foil is missing in high temps. if you have seen some site work i worry about it near fires and flues we always use a wool product in these locations. going off topic.. The boys in US like to put it on sheathing as they argue it lessens the vibration and resonance in rain. I see some logic in this but would want this floating over the structure ideally i think.

Interesting.... I had ruled out celotex as acoustically I don't think it has much to offer I also plan to keep to as low a build up as possible due to it being a conversion with restricted head height. I also have a weight restriction on the loading of the existing structure as well. so it may be a compromise. I haven't ruled out a lightweight recycle slate type product that i think will be less noisy. My research shows a flat profile on 18-20 mm sheathing to be less noisy than box profiles that can vibrate and resonate noise. Im looking at some industrial sites next week for ideas. Cpd I'm thinking similar set up but keeping the sheathing up tight under the tin ventilated below this. Not sure if I need ventilation directly under the tin to prevent rusting long term i would think its preferable. Thanks for the posts. JSH your roof sounds well designed but I am also on a tight budget and big meterage so a low cost solution will be needed. minimal cleotex for costs reasons now too!!

Hi I have searched" rain noise" but wanted to discuss sound proofing on steel roof residential buildings. I am planning to use Tata or similar seamed product but my ceilings are vaulted and low at the eves so sound absorption is a very important factor. I have lived in NZ and the US under steel roofs with lofts and they were still noisy but you did get used to it but want to look at the best way to design the noise out. I wondered if anyone has experience in this field.?

I was pleased to find this site after ebuild as there is much useful info on here. My wife and I run a small company designing and building out one off spec builds in the local area. I started as carpenter and worked all over the world in heavy structural carpentry, my wife started in commercial design and moved over to residential design when we met, not a qualified architect she designs our new build and conversions as well as high end kitchens, furniture, fits out etc. She also does 3D renders for private clients with some clever software that cost more that my motorbike!! We are both pretty creative and love what we do ..except dealing with solicitors. We do everything in house often even acquisition but always, design , planning, build, marketing and selling, about 1 house a year. We are just about to start building our own house in our free time/running alongside another development nearby. This house is very modern Class Q and is total departure from what we do day to day for the open market. A resource like Buildhub is very useful for us to help research new products and system we have not used before. You never stop learning! My area of expertise is timber engineering /cut roofing /complex structural and TF so hope I may be of use at some point. We are TRADA members so have access to a LOT of info in this field. (We are heavily involved in the Timber frame sector and are launching a related startup business this year (tourism).) I can assure you I am better at building houses than I am at spelling but will try my best. I look forward to learning what I can fro the site.

Hi.You need to raise the plate both sides in masonry ideally and birds mouth the rafter into the ridge correctly. max 1/3rd rafter depth measured at 90deg not the plumb cut. to do this and keep the pitch the same you will need a thicker plate on the steel as its too low if no bird mouth in photo. Dont forget to do the same on the wall plate. you also have no rafter tail so no soffit overhang this may be correct in this case but just check. if you want no soffit raise the wall plate so you get a full seat cut . quicker and easier for you.

Hi I was also considering the Tata product but have found another supplier in South Wales who were much better on information and price. I will look up the details for anyone interested. Has anyone discussed rain noise of this product? I haven't searched yet but its something I need to look into system wise.

OK I've had a look at your suggestions and thanks all for your input. I've looked at every system I think .To summarize these are my understandings : -Powered pumped aerated system is the most effective but regulation of airflow is desirable no know automated system available . This system could be run via solar or hydro at additional cost to install. Tank will need desludging/ pump replacing/ power to site or solar. -Passive systems no power but harder to get set up, media will need replacing and tank desludging. -installing a multi-chamber tank pre any treatment plant will serve no advantage other than increase storage and may upset the aerobic operation of the plant?

I will try and introduce myself as suggested if i get time as well.

Thanks again, I would love to build my own plant as a "farmyard engineer" but as mentioned its all about the right paperwork. My initial idea was to go down the no power route on the basis of cost not only Kws but getting the power to the site and the noise issue. I am aware its just a humming but the site enjoys total silence and zero light pollution and i would like to keep it that way. I was thinking of running a vent stack underground and then up in flexi pipe into the crown of a high tree in the hedge line maybe with a vent cowl to draw air. We are in a very rural windy location. The location is important as i need to achieve acceptable fall from the potential cabin sites. I have potential for wind or better a small hydro generator from the stream but i think I will try a well designed chimney first. I plan to test this with smoke at different heights and setups. I have tractors etc and the tank will have a hard access track so this is not a problem. I don't like the designs with small tanks as they will surely require desluging at shorter intervals. I have considered building my own large 4 chamber tank ( septic tank style) and using a clearfox or similar to effectively treat the primary treated effluent and thus prolonging its life. Am I right in this assumption.? Again my father use to claim he would throw some road kill or similar in a newly build tank(very large concrete multi chamber) to get the bacteria going with a head start. I can confirm that with good air circulation and the multiple chambers he achieve good results with low odour clear effluent. The tanks were often rarely cleaned out .( sometimes 10 Years ) I'm going back a few years but feel the system worked well as a primary treatment system much better than the off the shelf" onions" my generation have subsequently installed. If i used this multi-chamber vented system prior the the plant I could discharge the the steam using the plant documentation and reduce maintenance buy having a larger / more efficient pre tank than whats on offer. I think it would work? I will now take a look at the tanks mentioned in the posts above.

Thanks for your reply's, I will do some more research as you suggest and then reply. I need to make a decision fairly swiftly as we are now living on site any I have a temporary fully contained tank system in place but this need emptying every month!! We have unlimited space and I had initially wanted to put a reed bed in but was put off by the maintenance involved. The soil is solid clay over rock and a perc test would show virtually zero peculation. I will do some reading up and report back. Many Thanks

Firstly great news this site is back.... Fantastic resource for all.! I am a builder and we build 1 house a year on average but I am about to start my own project this year and its a very different site from our norm. We have a 20 acre site with Class Q for 1 house. The site is remote and has no mains drainage I wanted to go down the non electric route for the treatment plant as Id like to locate it far away from my house and near a watercourse (all year Flow). I am leaning toward the clearfox as as a trout fisherman i want to do my bit and achieve high water quality but once you start researching there is so much conflicting info out there is is somewhat confusing. I want to do it right first time with the ability to add a possible holiday cabin at a later date. Does anyone have experience with any of these non electric plants. I have read previous posts but with no direct reference to the clearfox other than its price. My father used to build his own septic tanks in blockwork on large sites with 20 beds plus, I assume this is not cost effective to put in front of a plant nowadays. my max capacity is 10-12 beds. Any advice much appreciated. A