Oz07

Set up a company vat registered and invoice yourself

Yes i have heard. Thing is with a newbuild you pay for building water as part of the connection anyway. Who's it hurting?

No not checked but wasn't happy with the cost of a pre app. What would a section 73 change of conditions or full application for 1 dwelling cost. I can't remember the actual LA application fees being that high.

The thing is I would like an indication of either the LA opinion or liklihood of success before purchasing

So i have drawn up some sketches and typed up the description of the changes we want to make on the plot we are looking at. Existing planning not suitable for us. We want same footprint and envelope but design changes so will appear different. I was going to submit a pre app as seems logical however the cost has made me think twice. This LA charge upwards of 400 quid. I am now wondering if its basically a way of subsidising the department. You seem to just be getting an officers professional opinion which is not binding on the authority. Who's to say how accurate the officer is or how experienced. I'm now thinking for a similar fee you might get a better opinion off a private planning consultant? In my head the pre app still seems the logical way to go. Even though non binding on any future decision it would have to be seen as a positive to the application to have involved the LA in pre app discussions? Over 400 quid just seems strong to me for a planners time. Realistically how much time are they going to put into a pre app and with budgets stretched who's to say you won't get some agency temp who's there for a short term cover responding. Any advice?

What are you asking. Im sure the vat man is not interested if you keep previous dwelling providing you genuinely intend to make the new build you ppr. Its only the equivalent of moving in to new, selling old then buying an investment property

I have a hydrant tap. Look for one of them online if near a path with hydrants in

Could possibly run string from above down into wall if having bespoke made then support landing off that

They may just be metric rather than imperial. Metrics are 626,726,826,926 wide 2040 high Lipping can be fitted to hardwood doors but you start to get into a bit of a deep dive into certification and you'd probably need a contractor who can certify the install unless BC are happy.

You can ask for a quote for a bigger pipe on your side. I think here severn trent encourage 32mm for anything 4 bed and upwards. I had 32 in my place because pressure not great round here and i wanted a good flow rate. Not sure it made any difference because i think they use same meter boxes regardless.

I guess its something to do with being a single track lane that means road closure and more cost. As has been said the overall price isn't too high but its still worth seeing if any flexibility on the traffic management. I think its the road closure and associated pen pushing which is increasing your cost. My last connection was on the other side of the road and it was still less than this. That entailed digging halfway through the road and through path. Backfilling and resurfacing, then digging the other half and connecting. This was all done with barriers and iirc no traffic lights on that one. Cars just had to give way to each other for couple of days.

I thought the only doors which needed that access requirement was a route from the front door to the gf w/c? Maybe the kitchen too? Plenty of mass built homes have 30" on ground floor.

If you look at the quote its the traffic management thats killing it. Any pics of the road and verge? Seems a mistake.

3 months from passing inspection I've never had that before even on a busy road with 2 way lights

The ones you build in as you go are a lot better. More rigid plastic. Only thing is they aren't always as well insulated as they should be

Where do we stand with these design and fixing details? How much common sense can be employed nowadays before you have to involve an engineer?

So you had your frames made 18mm smaller all around or made internal openings 18mm bigger? Or am i misunderstanding

The weight of the leafs ok on brackets like that? Do the jambs not bend?

Not a bad idea but could be a big dowel. You could make the dowel look like a big square peg if you wanted i suppose?

How far are your frames overhanging the cavity out of interest? Im always looking how people do this detail and finish it. Can door frames be fixed just on brackets too or do you need side fixings into substrate?

Youve only got a certain thickness to work with its not like you can fit 50mm insulation between brackets and plasterboard. Is the thermal performance of such a small amount of insulation really going to make much of a difference in this situation? Id be inclined to just fit plasterboard up that reveal with a full backing / bed of that fm330 air tight foam stuff hopefully then seal up those cavity closers

Are you happy with seeing the threaded bar and washers? Could you use some kind of coach screw from back of trimmer that the newel sits on into the back of the newel so not visible.

Id not be as concerned if it was just the slab and not foundations. Look for cracks in walls to see if foundations have moved. Internal corners often don't get the hardcore compacted as well so sometimes sound a bit hollow anyway. Maybe the moisture levels changing in the soil haveade the ground move a bit in that corner?

Loos work better on the reduced ceiling height wall if it works with your layout. No odd shower screen shapes or workarounds needed

Be okay if was just a partition but that looks poor for a load bearing stud. I can't believe the cut in the middle of joist is designed like that. How many are cut like that? Whats the bottom of that stud sitting on, is the floor below load bearing?