Oz07

I also want dry autumn. I want to get a backhoe in to clear our site after a planning decision. Scheduled October atm

Crazy my place will be half the size i wasn't hoping to spend near 5k on mvhr. How are these things dearer than boilers

I don't think they are I've built without them in past. Once i got asked to put them in because of potential methane.

I'd take it with a grain of salt. By all means do what you need to get the site sorted before it gets too bad but don't panic.

Why is all the soil pipework UG? Suppose it doesn't matter anyway

Braver man than me. Still if it's not given you any problems yet. That invisible one is shit.

No you buy thru merchant but they still do takeoff

Thats what I do.

I can never access that web archive site. Anyway I'm sure it was mentioned on here. What was his username?

Cool. What do you have 2 holes through the wall and they just connect into these? Neat solution. I went through roof tiles at my last place. How did you get on with your SAP with the titon units did you buy these before the design stage or did you change your as built SAP to allow for them?

Didn't Jeremy install aircon with a similar wall make up? You could search his threads i don't even remember his user name.

Evenings i used to set mine to come on.

But does it in the real world. Every job i see they seem to put the flashing in after. If dpc is on brick below is it actually going in underneath

Never heard of them. Are they limited to smaller systems? Why do you have 2 units?

With the mvhr you do need to get the 5 or 6" supply and extract pipes to an external wall and around 2m apart. Plus all your ducting. So its not quite as easy as popping in a cupboard. I'm not trying to be pedantic its just these do take up a bit more room once you allow for connections. Have to be strategically placed too.

Got me thinking how does a flashing interact with a dpc tray? By grinding a lead flashing into a course are you not sending water behind it if running off a doc tray?

Yeh don't worry I've never seen it done either. Its one of those textbook things which should be done but never is in practice.

Not many small subbies will have a rams but in the days of AI I suppose its easy enough to knock one up.

If it gets as far as that joint its out the building though isn’t it? In reality I think you will leave the blockwork out at doorways so the radon / dpm will turn up the inside face of the brickwork.

Ive never had 106 before just an email from local BCO saying in his experience local clay ground unsuitable for soakaway. Severn Trent accepted this. I think my conc was about 900 below ffl. Then 3 course block and 3 brick. For drainage and block and beam flooring etc

Did you get consent for storm to sewer easy enough? Our next place has clay ground. Last time I built near there they let me send storm into the combined due to ground conditions. Our site currently has a garage with an existing connection which I'm assuming is into combined. I was chatting to a guy at a firm i did some work for the other week. I think these engineers err on the side of caution now they're not happy with 1 years cycle to restore the ground. This thread is one to watch for me. Our new plot is similar. We have clay ground. There are 5 apple trees I've cut down. 2 on the building line or within it, 3 just outside. I'm pretty confident we're going to go with trench fill foundations. I've gone as deep as 2.2 previously. I will get a plasticity test done on some samples when I have the site cleared. My understanding is 2 holes. 1 near trees with 3 samples at 1m,2m and 3m. Then one away from the trees. Give these results to engineer to see if medium or high plasticity.

Is this some unusual design? I've never put windposts in anything I've built but then my stuff has always been pretty vanilla. I usually have lintel manufacturer spec lintels. Its FOC. Do you need an engineer to go through every element nowadays for BC or can the architect just use robust details or whatever the standard rules are.

The rwa 50mm is good. I've used soundbloc both sides with it too. I think the minimum for the regs in bedrooms was soundbloc ea side and 25mm acoustic wool. Even that holds itself in well if board one side first then fit up against.

50 I'd go with. Plenty room for services, I think the air gap actually helps acoustic performance and it will be cheaper too

Another tip @flanagaj if mixing by volume try to get hold of the 15l painters tubs empty. I always found half a cement fits in these whereas they dont fill up a 25l builders bucket. If you're not careful you're getting more sand than you want in the mix. @Mr Punter does it give it any flexibility or self repairing once its gone off or is that no chance with cement?