Oz07

What are you going to rod if its going to a soakaway? Can modern drain jetters get around p traps?

Yeh I have before as well. Just wondered if its the done thing. Last time was a 3m ish garage roof just set one side 75mm higher than the other. I've done a double garage for a guy who wanted them level with firing strips as was looking to extend in future. Also anything occupied with ceiling below probably wants to be level.

Does anyone ever set these joists up with the required 150mm fall instead of using firing strips?

I think the tray is a good idea i have some leftover air tight membrane so will be trying it. I'd be wary or using dpc its not very flexible I don't think you'd get a great seal around it.

Yeh I'd probably pause before putting these on. I have a similar issue with 6m garage flat roof. When I eventually found a span table I think it ended up being something like 70x250 or 225 c24 at 450 centres for 6m garage roof span. I'd want to speak to said SE and query it.

Ive not read the whole thread but is there a reason you overboarded with ply? I thought p5 was good stuff.

Buy a bung, fill system up, extend all pipes to 1m above ground and brace. Fill up to top and time the water. What stage are you up to?

I've always done my own rough take offs but good to know how much they are. When will ai be able to do it.

What did estimators online charge you for the take off

I wouldnt even bother telling the planners. As has been said keep MOE in mind

Do you engage the umbrella scheme beforehand and go with their spec then? Does it limit your choices

Do you get penalised on SAP for not fitting ashp cylinder?

Are you in or close to Leicestershire? Interfere are based there and you can deal with them direct on direct loads. At 1620 that's getting on for full load isn't it? I think I've used them optilyte before but can't recall exactly was a while ago. Im pretty sure you can still get a 150mm cavity to meet regs on a non airated block. Give interfuse a call let us know how you get on. They have hiab wagons

Black packer. 2mm. If head is full length pull door shut to latch, pin head stop up with black packer between door and stop, not pushing too hard against door. Then leg stops on hinge side hold the packer and nail at roughly the hinge positions then open the door and hold your 6ft level against the stop, pull it tight to the level then you know its straight. Few more pins. Latch side repeat keep it at 2mm if your latch is adjustable. Knock the inside part of latch forward a bit before final fix with ironmongery so it pulls in tight to stop. On site they just out the stops in a fixed distance from the door edge of the lining ie 37mm but thats more for production work ain't got time to mess with keeps.

I was looking into this the other week with ai. Excuse my luddite levels of understanding. I know you know your onions. The ai was implying immersion heating is a lot more expensive than heat pump because no COP. It was kind of implying doing the install so can heat water with both ashp and immersion is the best way. Are you saying its a lot more expensive? Can the ashp recharge quicker than immersion? Do you guys have some low dhw use which means you dont really notice the cost whereas a big family with multiple showers or baths would notice it?