Oz07

Surely it doesnt mean an untrapped drain connection?

Datum heights are easily done off surrounding fixed points or a timber stake. When i set out myself i like to bang 2 3x2 stakes in with a horizontal 2x1 screwed in across the 2 at ffl. Put these behind the corners 4 or 5m out the way. Better still if can be fixed to a boundary marker like fence or wall. Set out on these. You have to work methodically to get in the right place start with your longest most important wall. Come 90 of this for next wall then all starts to get pretty easy. I used to use 345 or trig to get the 90 but my laser now has 90 function. Still like to check diagonals. Bits of tape on the string lines help as a temporary marker for checking sizes

I've been thinking about this and its puzzling me. Howcome electric wires are ok running around or through joists and trusses, including big boy trimmers or triple girder trusses holding up massive loads. But if you have wires running around a non combustible rsj its deemed a risk?! Is it something to do with roof or floor allowed to collapse into the building but rsj and walls failing could cause building to collapse outwards?!

When overlapping dpm I've always gone 300mm and tape. You can but dpm tape at merchants which seems to be 4" wide and similar to electrical tape. Ive used that before. Also used good quality duct tape and not had problems. Ive always folded dpm over top of masonry as built not sure what the detail connecting to dpc is but double sided tape with dpc folded down and dpm coming up sounds good

Woke is dead.

Ive had them sit like this before. I used a wider dpc though, then folded it up the ends of the blocks and taped it to the dpc ontop of b&b. Then I had a small bit of concrete in the cavity directing water outwards. Im not sure how effective the concrete is, i wanted it more to stop the ground pushing the external leaf inwards. I dont think drainage for water underneath the floor is a standard detail. Maybe only on waterlogged or high water table sites. You don't see it on any of the big sites round here. Obviously you need drains for internal stacks but this could have them coming out external walls?

Isnt it a case of standard concrete blocks need to be 7n below ground. Aircrete can be 3.5n as more resistant to freeze thaw cycle. Then if 3 storey you need 7n aircrete?

Helpful if you refer to trench block cost in m2 terms. They come in a few different sizes

I think i would use gas if available, especially if retro fit can be made easy

How do blocks take to being sds drilled when used in transverse on b and b floor. I'd be a little concerned it would crack. Sure I'm worrying about nothing, you'd soon get a feel for it

Oil filled rads pretty effective just make sure the extension leads or temp power boards are up to the job

Does glass even come in 5m lengths?

Links? Or pics?

Does anyone know if you can start on a building notice to get a bco out and access approved. Then either convert to full plan submission or just revert back to working off full plans as per normal

Just been in Australia and nowadays for their patios they are using all these insulated roofing sheets. They seem to be able to get massive spans without intermediate joists or purlins. Possibly worth looking into very simple construction. Saying that you do get big snow loading presumably so prob a no go