Oz07

The made to order cavity closers are much better quality than the ones bought in loose lengths. Even come with plastic ties which get set into mortar.

Can't comment on the charger but the gully seems a bit ott. Never heard of that before.

Fancy planners dictating window colours on a development like that. It's hardly likely the builder would do anything crazy anyway, they want to be able to sell them. One reason of many this country is knackered some office jobsworth dictating window colours.

Did they roll with spiked roller? Looks a bit gash. Remind me whats going ontop?

Whats the specific issue with the planings?

If your not confident marking and cutting for the underside. Just use your jigsaw with a downwards cutting blade and take your time. It won't be a perfectly straight cut but as above the edge of the sink will hide a lot

Does it take you a long time to draw off hot at basins then?

Ah I understand i had manifold in last place worked well. If your cylinder is in airing cupboard and you have a separate utility/ plant room i suppose you'd have hot manifold in ac and cold in utility/plant?

What does that mean put in layman's terms

If you have manifold close to hot water tank then presumably could use big pipe to manifold?

Was that a typo in your original thread about australia? All their loos seem to be connected on a flexible with a tap on the wall. Must be some kind of reg over there? Here a lot of our toilets are plumbed in with fixed pipes. Even my old concealed loo was done with fixed pipework IIRC. Is there a reason they have to be on a flexi? Presume its too hard to change now.

I think OP said he was restricted to 350mm total due to foundation. My point is by the time you spend upwards of 2k on 25mm pir, 25mm battens and lose 50mm of internal space it doesn't seem economical

I'm with you I've never used pir in cavities either. I've done traditional with dot and dab and got great air test score. Parge coat prior and linked to airtight membrane on ceiling. I don't see how the pir helps you with this?

I think they're always a bit undersized. They're always designed to be filled or skimmed so suppose it makes sense to be smaller rather than bigger.

Is the blockwork already built up on the rake? If not you can nail it beforehand. Otherwise tosh one through top and bottom, not ideal. I've never really thought about nail position just do what looks right. A nail wants to be 2/3 into the back 1/3 into the front usually so just work on that principle. Obviously you dont want it near the thin cut edge it won't be doing anything. You want quite a lot of meat.