Oz07

This reads like AI. Usually the beams are bowed upwards and you use SCC for the floating concrete top with insulation in-between. The concrete levels the surface out so its thinner in the middle, thicker at the edges. Has the floor moved since the concrete was poured? Do you mean you surveyed a 5x5m square, seems a big room but 500mm square seems to small to judge anything.

Join facebook group like bricklaying jobs in xxx area. You can be very strict in your wording of the post which should filter out a lot of shit. Then your getting people who are actively looking for a start rather than begging people who are booked up. I know its better to use a reccomend trade but not all good guys are always busy. You will get some finishing on a job looking for their next start. Especially with the way new build sites are slowing down. You can afford to pay better than the barrons.

Like these charcoal blocks. Basically as @Russell griffiths says finish slab inline with internal wall

I've stopped mine short before and used kerb units on edge for the final bit. I don't think it matters massively

What about below slab and insulation in flexible duct/conduit. Id imagine the ground under a floorslab doesn't get as cold as the ground outside your house ie below patio

Why isn't it at risk if below insulation?

Good to know. Other half wants an island in new place and with ufh you'd be getting lukewarm out the tap. How deep did you go or literally just below insulation?

I've done manifold before to each appliance. Good for maintenance purposes. Also meant I could run the pipework whereas I wouldn't be confident doing all the fittings.

Do you not have to worry about freezing?

It sounds like you're being quoted for the gold standard when you don't really need that. You will need a good builder though and the bad ones won't follow super specific drawing details anyway so whats the point. An architect who quoted mine allowed for a plan for electrics. Not needed in my case I'm quite comfortable marking a drawing up with what I want and where.

Maybe you had a bad supplier? I've never had this

Any threads on here or case studies with it? Sounds interesting. Is it cheap?

Rear elevation on our new place is planned with 2 modest sliding patio doors and a single standard door on the utility. Is there a way to have the sliding doors slightly open but secure? I know back in the day we used to put a stick in the bottom rail as a sort of dead lock. I know in oz they have secure fly screen doors in front of the glass sliders. I am just wondering how I can leave the doors slightly open to get some air in for night purging etc while still having it secure.

Does this apply for A2A or do they switch between heat and cooling fine?

What could be less aggressive than an aircon unit for each room? Or you mean atleast you've planned for it so no reason routing services? Have you taken a condensate to each ac location?