Oz07

Not many small subbies will have a rams but in the days of AI I suppose its easy enough to knock one up.

If it gets as far as that joint its out the building though isn’t it? In reality I think you will leave the blockwork out at doorways so the radon / dpm will turn up the inside face of the brickwork.

Ive never had 106 before just an email from local BCO saying in his experience local clay ground unsuitable for soakaway. Severn Trent accepted this. I think my conc was about 900 below ffl. Then 3 course block and 3 brick. For drainage and block and beam flooring etc

Did you get consent for storm to sewer easy enough? Our next place has clay ground. Last time I built near there they let me send storm into the combined due to ground conditions. Our site currently has a garage with an existing connection which I'm assuming is into combined. I was chatting to a guy at a firm i did some work for the other week. I think these engineers err on the side of caution now they're not happy with 1 years cycle to restore the ground. This thread is one to watch for me. Our new plot is similar. We have clay ground. There are 5 apple trees I've cut down. 2 on the building line or within it, 3 just outside. I'm pretty confident we're going to go with trench fill foundations. I've gone as deep as 2.2 previously. I will get a plasticity test done on some samples when I have the site cleared. My understanding is 2 holes. 1 near trees with 3 samples at 1m,2m and 3m. Then one away from the trees. Give these results to engineer to see if medium or high plasticity.

Is this some unusual design? I've never put windposts in anything I've built but then my stuff has always been pretty vanilla. I usually have lintel manufacturer spec lintels. Its FOC. Do you need an engineer to go through every element nowadays for BC or can the architect just use robust details or whatever the standard rules are.

The rwa 50mm is good. I've used soundbloc both sides with it too. I think the minimum for the regs in bedrooms was soundbloc ea side and 25mm acoustic wool. Even that holds itself in well if board one side first then fit up against.

50 I'd go with. Plenty room for services, I think the air gap actually helps acoustic performance and it will be cheaper too

Another tip @flanagaj if mixing by volume try to get hold of the 15l painters tubs empty. I always found half a cement fits in these whereas they dont fill up a 25l builders bucket. If you're not careful you're getting more sand than you want in the mix. @Mr Punter does it give it any flexibility or self repairing once its gone off or is that no chance with cement?

Why is lime bad? Can you cut the bag in half like cement or will it be too much volume as lighter? Whats better for workability the concentrated admix or lime?

Bucket gauge is good. Normally have 1 bucket and count them bur I can see your thinking minimise the risk. Normally a cement bag cut in half is 1 mix so then get 6 buckets. Are you making the brickie mix up or has he got a joey?

What sand did you use? I think you are supposed to use a bit of sharp sand in the mix but a lot of roofers ignore this. You can buy a dry readymix just add water product, think it comes with some kind of certificate.

So its 16mm out of level? I wouldn't try to get that out in one course if its seen. Why don't you have him get it out over 3 or 4 courses

I don't think you'd ever feel disappointed with a2a aircon units.

So was the quote something like reducing a room temp by 3 degrees? It all helps but can't see the other half being content in peak summer. Airconlite is probably a better term. I am more imagining my missus nicknaming it fake aircon if I installed it and it was ineffective.

This summed up my thoughts. The other ones @JohnMo mentioned look a bit sleeker. These FCU seem pretty deep profile don't they? I suppose you can't get a fan and effective cooling in a slim profile.