Oz07

If OP installs his gates above 1m and council dont notice how long before they become legit.

I had a automated gate about 1.5m high and put it inline with the boundary about 300mm back. I pressed the button as approaching or just pulled up at side of rd. It was a decent width rd though. I was using an existing access which already had gates on it though. Never heard anything from council. Makes me wonder whether "installing" some scrap gates across an existing access before applying for permission is a good "hack" bet you can find scrap gates on marketplace

I also ran the numbers on single glazing even though you wouldn't be allowed it in UK regs. Interesting how big a difference in u value between single glaze and 2g vs not so big a difference between 2 and 3g (if the numbers are accurate) 1/2/3 5/1.2/.7 I might approach my next place differently instead of fabric first ill do economic fabric first.

No thats fine its more like 25% not 100% then. Interesting I might play with some numbers and AI later but we know numbers aren't its strong point

So like double per m2 between 2 and 3g? So with 30m2 glazing 12k 2g or 24k 3g if my sums are right?

Yeh obviously all a decision based on individual house. I bet the average lounge would have 20m2 of wall vs 5m2 glazing if you think of a 5x3m box and 2 sides being on external wall. You went 3g throughout not just in that one room?

Sorry yeh .18

I meant price like allow roughly £x per m2 for mid range 2g vs. 3g.

With windows and doors is there a ballpark figure per m2 with mid range 2g vs. mid range 3g? @craig Do you run into a similar issue with glazing and payback periods some of these top spec windows costing a lot. Especially as they wouldn't last as long as a wall. If having a house with average wall u value 1.8 there must be a certain u value window you can go for before it becomes uneconomical. Excluding the benefits of reduced noise etc etc. Average 4 bed with 30m2 glazing I bet ai could work it out.

I can only tell you from experience. Ive poured quite a few house slabs with it. My perimeter blockwork is always level at dpc with insulation and the dpm wrapped up over top. Lorry/lorries turn up, 2 or 3 of us with rakes spread it about in less than an hour, much easier than standard concrete. You fill it up till its to top of blocks all around. Someone goes over it with a dapple bar both ways. Spray it with sealer from outside the slab. Job done, cut joints next day. It's the consistency of runny porridge. Ive never had any big dips or uneven areas in it.

When i pulled a concrete slab driveway up one time there was an existing clay pipe below it. Was fine. Bet that was less than 200mm. Concrete had mesh in was tough as nails. See lots of shallow pipes under driveways.

Also with ply you can staple it no risk of hitting anything below then

I'd say it wouldn't be worth the effort. As above once you stop the draughts with ply and have the lvt down it won't feel as cold. Insulation would have to be thick to make any difference

Ive done this before and sure i pulled the detail from bregs doc. Movement joint at 3m. It had a bit more cover though maybe 450-600mm