Oz07

With windows and doors is there a ballpark figure per m2 with mid range 2g vs. mid range 3g? @craig Do you run into a similar issue with glazing and payback periods some of these top spec windows costing a lot. Especially as they wouldn't last as long as a wall. If having a house with average wall u value 1.8 there must be a certain u value window you can go for before it becomes uneconomical. Excluding the benefits of reduced noise etc etc. Average 4 bed with 30m2 glazing I bet ai could work it out.

I can only tell you from experience. Ive poured quite a few house slabs with it. My perimeter blockwork is always level at dpc with insulation and the dpm wrapped up over top. Lorry/lorries turn up, 2 or 3 of us with rakes spread it about in less than an hour, much easier than standard concrete. You fill it up till its to top of blocks all around. Someone goes over it with a dapple bar both ways. Spray it with sealer from outside the slab. Job done, cut joints next day. It's the consistency of runny porridge. Ive never had any big dips or uneven areas in it.

When i pulled a concrete slab driveway up one time there was an existing clay pipe below it. Was fine. Bet that was less than 200mm. Concrete had mesh in was tough as nails. See lots of shallow pipes under driveways.

Also with ply you can staple it no risk of hitting anything below then

I'd say it wouldn't be worth the effort. As above once you stop the draughts with ply and have the lvt down it won't feel as cold. Insulation would have to be thick to make any difference

Ive done this before and sure i pulled the detail from bregs doc. Movement joint at 3m. It had a bit more cover though maybe 450-600mm

What do you think to how they do it though. Can be very basic in some areas yet surprisingly robust in other areas. Certified tanking to wet rooms.

I found with lvt never felt cold feet in bathrooms no need for ufh. Electric towel rad was great on other hand. Drying towels for a few hours after shower when the heating wasn't coming on.

Have you seen proper self compacting concrete? Im not just talking about a wet normal concrete. There is 10mm agg, admixtures and fibres in the proper stuff. Ive never had water added to it and the last batch I had came from what was at the time one of the most advanced batching plants in the UK. There was an article about it before a national bought them out.

It is good. Ive never had reason to complain about it. Never had to use SLC on it either its that flat. Always seal my dpm up well as like you say, its runny. Price wise it did used to be getting on for twice the price. But the rep helping you lay it was included in the price with all the gear they bring. It always made economic sense to me.

I dont understand all the hate for self compacting here. Ive used it on every house I've built. Whether its ground bearing slab or being used as a "screed" ontop of b&b. Always had the wagon back right up to the house and pour it in. Rake it about, dapple bar and get the sealer sprayed on. Very flat and has always been level enough as I've always poured to the top of the blockwork at dpc level. Back in the lafarge days they sent a rep/concreter out inc in the price to help you with all the gear. Last lot I had needed to pay a guy to help who the concrete company reccomend. It certainly doesn't do the job for you but its a lot easier and better flowing than normal concrete.

Ive had kommerling before. It didn't seem any better or worse than other upvc profiles. Does it depend on the supplier? Do the foils last as long as the frames or do they deteriorate faster?

Why was yours cut up again?

🤣 sorry you're right I was but just can't see anyone sending guys out to swap a heat pump on day rate.

Fair point another 10 years probably a lot more guys will have experience of them