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I don’t think this is terrible. Mistakes happen. There are much worse than this. i think there are two options, but whichever you do i would wait 70 days or so first for the screed to properly cure. Then, you could either cut the battens out (or most of them) and fill gaps with screed OR lay 1mm thick steel plates over the battens overlapping the adjacent screed. Before doing the second option, consult an experienced tiler, such as @nod

I did a Ubiquiti firmware update, which I was reluctant to do because I’ve had problems with those in the past. This didn’t fix it. Then I deleted my Sonos app and reinstalled it (something I’ve tried before unsuccessfully). Miraculously, this time it worked… but only for 10 minutes or so. Then I realised one speaker was connecting to one AP and the other to the UDR. So I locked both to the UDR. This seem to fix things albeit my internet then crashed, no idea why. Might be the bloody firmware update, as Ubiquiti tend to have problems with those. Anyway, rebooted the router and everything seems to be working, but who knows how long it will last.

Did you speak to the support assistants?

I have a pair of Sonos Era 100s which I bought a year ago. They worked fairly well for a few months or so, then I took them into a different room and they worked ok for a bit until they didn’t. Of the stereo pair, one has been problem free but the other won’t connect to my network, despite going through all the trouble shooting steps, factory resets of the Sonos Era 100 speaker and reboots of the UDR etc. Sonos Era 100s do not create a sonos net network like some older speakers, they connect directly to WiFi, which in my case is Wifi 6 courtesy of a Ubiquiti setup (UDR plus 2 APs). This is not a signal issue, because I have excellent 5Ghz signal everywhere in the room with the speakers. Moreover, the speaker that works fine is 6m further away from the router, than the speaker that doesn’t. Sonos support has been helpful in the past, their support engineers seem to be quite good. However, although they fixed the issue, the fix only lasted a month or so, and then I never got around to calling back because they aren’t open weekends and I just accepted I’d listen to one speaker rather than the stereo pair until I fixed it. On Friday I finally got fed up and put some time into trying to fix it. I did the usual reboots and resets and then contacted Sonos. They said the issue is with my Ubiquiti and that “sometimes Ubiquiti will block off one speaker but not another”. They then said that I should give them access to my Ubiquiti network settings by giving them my credentials and they would “fix it”. I didn’t feel comfortable doing this. I find it odd. Googling around the forums it seems many people have had issues, but I haven’t seen any answers which I understand. Starting to feel like Sonos software is just not up to scratch and that I should insist on a refund - though this might be tricky as I’m well outside the returns period. Just feels like a bit of a con. I don’t have any connectivity issues with any of our other devices. Curious what others think.

I will get it wired properly by a professional spark, but I’m just not sure where he would run the electricity from. We have a power circuit and a lighting circuit in the garden, can one of those be extended to provide power to the sauna, or does it need its own dedicated supply from the CU? The difficulty I have is that the CU is right at the front of the house, and the location of the Sauna will be right at the back of the garden, some 50m away, with a whole house in the way. I don’t mind digging up a channel to install a conduit in the garden, but running cable in the house is going to be a PITA.

But even this couldn’t be done from a 13A socket, right?

Looking at a Sauna that will need a 9kw power supply. This is more than I think my external 13A sockets will provide. I have a couple of external lighting circuits, but presumably they won’t be enough either?

Thanks @joe90. To be clear: I wasn’t planning on covering all the holes. Just the ones I added. The shed did come with lots of vents, but costly these weren’t enough.

Just thought I’d update this thread to tell everybody that I fitted a cheap manrose bathroom extractor with humidistat a couple of months ago and we cured the mould issue. The fan is on a lot, but not always. I am hoping that as it gets warmer it will be needed less, but at least bikes are now mould free, however wet they get when they are out. Prior to realising I needed a fan, I drilled some 50 - 60 holes into the sides of the shed (about two dozen holes on each side and 10 or so at the end). I now wonder if I should cover them up, to create a better barrier so that once the humidity level inside the shed drops, it takes longer to get humid again. Thoughts? I guess I could experiment with some masking tape, but would need to fit a v power meter to the fan circuit to get accurate results and can’t be bothered with that.

Prior to my OP on this, this was pretty much my view. But one of the responses got me thinking and I’m now thinking insulation will mitigate condensation risk affecting comfort or longevity of the sauna. Or will any condensation just be dried off pretty quickly by the heat?

I had come across that site as part of my searches, but didn’t think any of their Saunas were built with insulated cavities, so your post has me a bit confused now, as I thought you were advocating the use of an insulated cavity.

You would also be committing a criminal offence. Not worth it in my view, unless your self-build is going so badly that you need new accommodation. I hear HM Prisons are fairly water tight.

But don’t you need to live in Northern Ireland (or have a friendly middle man who does) to benefit from that loophole?

I think I may have to read this book before embarrassing myself further: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Secrets-Finnish-Sauna-Design/dp/1683150260/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1H9X9CX5ZOZTZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.yEU2bwLmDjJ--0ts9h64UnbtZft2D8JVGUtM1gyGhX0KjDCvOmp3RXoc4NuxVjkaf6hC1QWbWgkL0zywYuinVjlLj7KfDLtskHHrD8rWXMr3c464IrvmmS1B-gLuNR-2DKhS7OIcSLZGVPwarepXNKZ6acP-Gy6wctm8rPneIY-LbN2Qx4Sxaht1ueMezvk2da-sRfxDeHOziIssyB3vqiaojyVsjwNRoNMdkqaXgPo.qtskqQQXJ3b3GGvenUVWSvRByoNWJeDbSwPri6-xxHo&dib_tag=se&keywords=sauna+design&qid=1714517017&s=books&sprefix=sauna+design%2Cstripbooks%2C80&sr=1-1 Clearly lots to think about...

I am very tempted to do this, as @SimonD says: And very happy with a log sauna, if I understand that correctly. Is this a log sauna, for example: https://www.polhus.co.uk/sauna-olli-p-1170 I note that this design doesn't have any cavities for insulation, but does have the option to increase the thickness of the "logs" from the standard 44mm thick to 70mm or even 90mm thick. Presumably 7cm or 9cm thickness of spruce is quite decent at retaining heat? Though probably not as good as the one photographed by @SimonD which does tend to suggest there is going to be a decent cavity for some insulation. Curious as to what you see as the disadvantages of buying a pre-fabricated DIY kit like this versus designing something better from scratch. If it's only going to be used an hour at a time at most, what good is the cavity design with insulation vs a 7cm or 9cm single spruce log design?

I'm in the market for an internal blackout blind for a Velux GGL UK04 206621U 134cm x 98cm which is powered by our mains supply. I had hoped this was a simple case of buying a compatible official Velux blind from one of the many online suppliers, but I'm now concerned reading the above. Any good experiences to balance out the negative ones above? Given its internal, I'm hoping to install myself, though it would be a simple DIY job, though query how to wire in the electrics to the electic control of the blind?

So my potential plan is to have it externally at the back of the garden next to a cold water shower and possibly a cold water plunge pool (though the plunge pool adds some complexity I imagine, given I'm not keen on chlorine so would need to investigate other ways of keeping it germ free). The pool and shower would have privacy screening made from evergreen bamboo planting, so the nudity factor will definitely be possible. Though don't let @Pocster know. The Sauna insulation material you mention looks cheap enough, though I guess the real cost factor is the implication of having to build in a cavity to hold the insulation, more or less doubling the materials required for the shed. Just wondering if it is worth it. The Sauna won't be huge, I was thinking a footprint of about 2m by 3m, and 2.1m tall. And it will be used at most for 5 or 6 hours a week, in a London garden that even in winter rarely gets below -2C. Is the difference in heating cost between an insulated Sauna and an uninsulated one, for such few hours a week enough to justify insulating it?

Stayed at a hotel this weekend which had an outdoor sauna. It was basically a simple shed, made of shiplap, with a sauna heater inside, complete with coals (not sure if they were fake or real, probably just volcanic stone heated up by an electric coil heater). A very narrow strip of wall not more than 50cm wide, behind and a small amount of the ceiling above the heater, about 50cm by 60cm, were clad with a small amount of fireproof board, maybe cement board or fireproof plasterboard, but it was really very simple. No insulation as far as I could see, yet the heater was keeping the Sauna at 81C. Wondered if it was really that simple to build and why it wasn’t insulated? Anyone have any experience of building a Sauna in a garden?

Welcome to the power of the mafia. You are lucky they aren’t imposing a traffic management survey on you. i think I paid a total of about £8000 for all the fees, surveys and other bollox the council required. Total daylight robbery.

Not sure. I assumed it was flats. Each floor looks a bit low to be offices.

Drove past the Hanger Lane giratory yesterday. For those that don’t know it, it’s a very large roundabout with 4 lanes, and in some places 5, where the North Circular intersects with the A4005, the A40 and a little road called the Westgate. In the middle of the roundabout, you will find the Hanger Lane underground station. Just next to the underground station, but still very much on the giratory itself, surrounded by roundabout, they have built this! Why?!? who is going to enjoy living there. it’s probably one of the most polluted spots in London. Horrible.

Plus 1, but replace "Awkward" with "smelly". You're just sitting down at the breakfast bar to drink your espresso and instead of a nice aroma of coffee... you get an aroma of something else. Same issue when you are at the dining table. Even with MVHR, toilets should only ever be off hallways (unless an ensuite to a bedroom - but even then the smell is not ideal).

Depends, what is the weight of a block? If it’s 4kg, then that is a good deal (cheapest I’ve found works out at 72.9p a kg from Siwasdirect (link above) including economy delivery, but you have to order 12 packs of 2x4 kg blocks, which is quite a lot to store).

Ok, I hope you are right, and I hope you don’t live in Barnet or Enfield.

@hdp i would consider speaking to a planning consultant first before getting all excited about floor plans. I too live in North London and even though I’m not in a conservation zone, we really struggled to get a rear two storey extension approved. Originally we submitted plans for three storeys, including loft conversion. This was deemed over development and not allowed, even though both of our neighbours on either side had done bigger loft conversions, our ground floor extension was only 4m deep and our first floor extension only 2.4m deep only half the width of our house. Eventually we got help from a planning consultant who advised that if we presented a planning application for just the ground and first floors, and ditched the loft (temporarily) we were more likely to get that approved and could subsequently add a loft conversion under permitted development as long as it was built as a separate structure to the first floor extension, ie entirely separate. in your case, you could not do what we did because your loft is already converted. Seems unfair and it is, but that is the stupid planning system. So I would find out what is actually possible before thinking about internal layout too much.