craig

They're a practical window, easy to slide up and down but they are far from being "decent" - just the nature of sash and case.

It’s not really my area of expertise tbh but @Nickfromwales might be able answer these questions better than I can?

Fold it over the top of the PIR and seal it to the DPM/radon barrier I think would be the best approach.

Sticky tape? They should have used something like CT1 or stickslike***t would have been good enough and then trim if required. Should be fine, not much else you can do from what I can see. Any left over to patch? If yes, stick over the top with the adhesive mentioned previously.

It was more tongue in cheek than anything else.

Exactly this, with MVHR there isn't really any need to have it open and actually better if it isn't because of losses in heat recovery "if" it's open to deal with steam etc. It's not just about heat recovery but also to disperse smell, someone drops one and you can't open the window, the poor bugger that goes in afterwards is going to a create a clean up in aisle one to deal with.

They can do both open and closed.

It shouldn't ever require the customer to come up with a detail for thermal detailing but in all honesty, it's not really something the installers know about either in the typical replacement window market which is not the market that most people on here are looking at. They "know" about removal and installing back in the same place with new windows. If they also surveyed, they should be allowing appropriate tolerances (usually 5mm all around on a replacement and dependent on opening, it may require 10mm or more). It would be interesting to see the report from Fensa and what wasn't in line with building regulations and why if possible?

You would need to speak to Smart Aluminium to see if that is an option to retrofit, I don't see any references to a soft close/open being available for them but there may well be.

Just as smooth as expected, that glides really well.

Soft open/close would sort that out, could be retrofitted. You’re welcome for the help. Glad it’s worked out.

Hi Crofter, Any chance of a video of it in operation? I've seen them but not operated one yet (still to go over to the factory but they are highly recommended and it's what I'm considering for myself and father in law. He'd appreciate it more than me to be honest. Thanks Craig

Yes, from Megrame in Lithuania most likely, Rawingtons website states Baltic states, as far as I know the only manufacturer in the Baltic states in Megrame for Gutmann. There are UK based Gutmann manufacturers and I was going to be supplying but the UK prices were astronomical for a UK supplier and I decided against going down that route.

If there's a window system on the market in the timber aluminium market that I'm not a fan of (and I do not say this lightly) it's Nordan. It's a poor product and you're money is better spent elsewhere. There's a reason it's primarily commercial (it's cheap), it's not for quality.

Ignore, didn't see the attached PDF. I could be interested and could collect, would be useful to have in stock, I'm heading down the M6 soon (to be confirmed).

Protective film should be removed within 6 months, earlier if possible and definitely before any render work/cladding work is undertaken and +1 for sticky stuff remover.

So basically it wasn't just the door issue that you reported, it's the whole installation that is sub standard. Glad you were able to get the report, now it's a case of determining the next step with the supplier/installers.

Anyone that is sent back for snagging are angry. It’s like a slap on the wrists for not doing it right in the first place and it’s at there’s or the companies cost usually. It’s why I recommend the last day is a snagging day, a walk around with the customer or contractor to ensure they are happy and then sign off the install.

It's a difficult thing, especially new builds when mastic isn't always possible at the point of installation for numerous factors. I always allow for this to be done by the contractor or appointed mastic man.

It immediately voids them, as the window has been altered. It does depend on the manufacturer, some won't mind but if it is the root cause, warranty is void.

Speak to your window supplier, they should be able to factory install them as most supply reed contacts. You can have this connected to your smart home if required, wireless enabled etc. If they do not know what you are referencing, look elsewhere.

This in a nutshell and if you don’t know. Ask.

I tend to go with adapt and overcome.

Ya think? My last project (Passive House), was a ****ing nightmare. Every opening was in the region of 5mm to 30mm out in height/width (100mm inner block, 120mm xps, 100mm compacfoam, 30mm cavity, 100mm outer block). So every opening was a shambles, the cavity which was 30mm, was if you were lucky 30mm at the bottom, and up to 60mm at the top. Most openings the cavity ranged from 10mm to 70mm at the bottom. Measure? Are you joking? Build? are you joking? It's very, very rare things are spot on and folk wonder why the tolerances on things are big. A Passive House care home I worked on with a very large developer. The building was in the wrong position by 20mm, throwing out all the brick work for the facade, all the floor levels were wrong (5 stories), resulting in mat wells at all doors. I wish I had a magic wand. A "Grand Designs The Street" project, resulted in the window having to be adjusted (on air) because the kit tolerances were maxed out and coupled window frames were maxed out, meaning the 20mm tolerances in width we had for the opening no longer existed and the units were now too big.

Elite are a good team from what I hear, they have been on my radar for some time.