ZacP

So the utility is a standard 2400 high so plenty of height. Current design is 3.2m x 2.2m so think we could sacrifice 800mm or so to fit a 400L tank, manifolds, extension vessels etc. etc. So it would be a utility of 2.4m (4x600mm units) x 2.2m. Smaller then we hoped but might be more sensible then the loft?

ok so what is the smallest space you can have for a hot water cylinder and UFH manifold? Just weighing up the options! Loft may be useful for storage anyway.... just have to convince SWMBO to give up space in the utility room!

Is that over spec’ing it do you think? Should we just go for a 300 and wait for the water to warm up again? What is the approx warm up time for a 300l cylinder from a ashp?

ASHP and immersion for the 60deg boost. Might add PV at some point if and when we can afford it. I can’t remember why we thought 400 was suitable. Happy to be convinced otherwise! its a 5 bed 3 bath. Certainly don’t want to be running out of hot water part way through a shower and with two daughters I can only imagine the hours they’ll spend with the shower on.

Ah ha! Yes, thank you (shoulda googled). 300L might not be big enough though. Mb 2x200? Does that work?

I’m trying to use a bit of insulated loft space for MVHR and Hot Water Cylinders rather then having to design in a plant room (other things like UFH manifold, fuse board etc. have other out of the way locations. Only issue is max head height is 1.2m. I’d ideally like to have 400L of hot water (planning for the day when my 2 daughters are teenagers). So... - Is there a 400L or similar tank with a height of 1m (allowing for pitch)? - can cylinders be mounted on their side or at an angle? - can I have 2 smaller tanks in series or parallel? if these are ridiculous options let me know and I’ll go back to the drawing board and squeeze a plant room in! thanks all!

This was the quote from our architect, just for info and if its useful to compare....

That seems exceptionally good value! Do it, for piece of mind if nothin else!

Sorry to jump in @Buzz but I have a similar question and perhaps the answer to one might help with the other! Can anyone draw up building regs documents? Much like having an SE who doesn't need to visit site? If so, I'd shop around! for the best price if you know what spec you want and just need someone to put it into darings for BC.

I would, but not sure its worth the drive into a CDZ (Covid-Death-Zone).

Thanks @PeterW, I’ll look into this. Only issue we have is getting things like telehandlers etc onto site anything we do will have to be done by hand as much as possible. We haven’t sorted the access for anything larger then a person with a wheelbarrow yet. The parking and site are on totally different levels and concrete can get pumped easily, but no space for a crane etc. Light is king hence the engineered joist and lewis deck idea. ‘Easy’ to install!

Well it’s the ceiling in one room and the floor of another. Means the whole floor is structural and any future changes can be done with no worries as to where the structural walls are. Also significant reduction in sound transmission and the spongy feeling that can happen with some timber structures. With young kids that run scream and jump a lot this is an important decision for us to get right. Perhaps @Russell griffiths could chip in with why he decided to go beam and block.

We have a lower ground floor and an upper ground floor so it does get confusing. I’m asking about the structure between these that creates a floor to the upper ground floor and a ceiling to the lower ground floor. Hope that clarifies! The ceilings above the upper ground floor will be either vaulted, flat plastered or exposed joists depending on where you are in the building.

Haven’t fully priced it no. It’s only around 32sqm so not massive but still want to get it right! With beam and block how do you run ducting for MVHR and install things like recessed spotlights? Hadn’t considered steel joists. The reason I thought engineered joists would work would be because of the ease of installation and also running cables, pipes and ducting. Same issues as beam and block?

Yes, but still cheeper then beam and block? Still trying to workout how to get underfloor heating upstairs... It's an upside down house so want the floors upstairs nice and toasty!

We've definitely decided on ICF external walls, but what is the thinking for for internal walls? Do we continue to use the uninsulated blocks from our ICF supplier and pump more concrete into them or just build in block? Obviously the non-structural walls can be stud (timber or metal - yet to be decided!). What has everyone else gone for? Also, internal floors. Found out about lewis decks this week (thanks to BH!). Seems like a great combination between the ease of engineered (pozi) joists and strength of beam/block. This may be a questions for our SE but has anyone used a lewis deck with engineered joist or similar and therefore how did you attach the joists to the walls? I'm guessing a standard wall plate wouldn't be enough (4m span). Thanks!

I cant see anything wrong with that! Simple, functional, easy. What type of drier are you having? If you have one of those ones that extracts it needs to be near an outside wall I guess for the vent.

Tanners seem to get a good reputation. Based in Ireland I think but unless you need them to visit site I dont think this is an issue. We haven't used them (yet!) not at that stage yet. I haven't heard of a lewis deck before - looks really interesting! Think we might switch from beam and block to this!

Cost is going to be a big factor of the decision. We don't mind uPVC as you can now get some good ones with thinnish profiles, but hoping to go for Alu. Probably cant afford alu/timber or ones made out of solid gold... Good idea with the forms. I guess we'll have a good idea of how big they're going to be because of the sizes of the woodcrete blocks, but the forms give extra confidence that what we'd ordered would fit! p.s. 10mm fitting allowance is new to me, thanks! saves a headache later!

This is the route i'd like to go down, but I don't really want too much delay whilst my windows are on order though. How long is the process? It would be awful having a shell and roof and then a 3 month delay till watertight for windows!

Thanks all, makes sense. So I'll be making sure our windows match with the sizes of blocks for the isotex blocks. This might not make the windows cheeper, but the forming of the openings will be easier and therefore cheeper. Thanks!

I've read a lot about 'standard' size windows but cant find a list of what these standard sizes are. Trying to save money by using off the shelf so to speak as much as possible (2.4m high internal rooms etc.) rather than going too bespoke. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

Thanks Dan, I'll drop them all a line t see what their prices are like.

Were probably going down the woodcrete rute as it's possible t bnd directly t the external surface.

On this similar bu slightly separate note, has anyone had a 3D model of their self build printed? Thinking its be a great way of visualising the build and also as a bit of something/art/sculpture to tell the story. No idea where/how you'd start but thought I'd be best asking the experts on BH (and hope a bit of flattery can get you anywhere!). TIA