Bonner

By thin tray, I guess you mean floor level without risers? If so the answer is probably not unless you can lower the whole waste below floor level. The basics are, trap needs to be connected directly to your shower tray outlet and the waste pipe should fall continuously all the way. If it drops and then rises, it will collect gunge and eventually block. You can get low rise shower traps to minimise the height of your tray but it probably had one already.

Can’t help then. I had a few bits left over after installing my Nolte kitchen, nothing has fallen off yet …

Partially painting it is pointless. You will get a thin layer of surface corrosion but won’t affect the structural integrity or life time of the beam.

I have the same provider, no idea if it will be any use but then the alternative was at least double the price without inspiring any more confidence.

Used to secure a door front on integrated appliances?

A combination of low demand and health and safety regulations, speaking of which I don’t think anyone would machine treated timber. Maybe rethink your repair solution to utilise standard sizes?

Rent a dumper for a few days if you have only one job to do?

Also no experience because I find the common wheelbarrow one of the most versatile pieces of equipment I have ever used. Adding power is going to make it heavier and less manoeuvrable. Also doubt they will do all the work for you, still needs loading etc. Why do you think you need such a thing? Could you not carry smaller loads instead?

To move forward, I would suggest you need two parties; an independent ‘expert’ who acts for you and a competent metal roof contractor. The independent may be another architect or technician who can survey the existing issues and propose practical solutions. When you are in this position it is difficult to be pragmatic, maybe there is no ‘elegant’ solution for some of the details and you will have to compromise. Looking back, I am largely echoing what @Temp has suggested

Looks like Indian sandstone which is quite thin 25-35mm and available in various colours. York stone slabs are normally thicker 45-60mm.

Another vote for talking directly to the CIL coordinator. Our contact was very helpful.

I am quite sure the ‘site’ in question is the new plot however this is something you can’t afford to get wrong! I would phone your local authority to double check, preferably getting it confirmed in an email.

You need the capacity (volume) to contain a storm surge of rainwater. If you can demonstrate your pipes have 21m3 capacity, BC should accept it.

No, solid timber rafters in this case although I am sure they could have designed with I-beams if needed.

Not necessary in England (AFAIK). I did use a SE but only for a raft foundation and one steel beam. Everything else was covered by manufacturer’s specifications/calcs.

I have a vaulted roof with glutam beam and rafters, designed and supplied by the supplier of my roof trusses and floor joists. They did all the calcs, no SE involved.

They do rotate but their moment of inertia is relatively low due to slow speed. If the wind drops they can stop within a revolution due to drag. Large turbines will keep spinning (and generating electricity) for several minutes when cut off, giving operators precious time to switch over to another source.

I agree, nothing to worry about here. Most likely a slight weep in a joint (if anything) and there shouldn’t be any joints in the screed! You might find the pressure shoots up after the screed is poured due to chemical reaction.

Assume you are referring to @ToughButterCup’s CO2 monitor? My bedroom is typically 1200ppm at night, over 2000ppm without MVHR running.

Another vote for MVHR here, this is my inlet pre-filter after a month! We are in a rural village so probably a combination of wood burner smoke and agricultural dust. Anyway I prefer not to let fresh air in the house.

I think @craig is an expert in window specifications.

Well done for getting those off! It certainly points towards the connecting pipe unless there is a leak from the waste pipe (water can track across the ceiling and only appear at joints). Otherwise you will probably need to cut out the wall to find out what’s going on. Note I am only an amateur DIYer, suggest you wait for @Nickfromwales professional advice before going any further.

Anything is possible, just costs a bit more to carry materials in and out. For an extension you will only need a mini/micro digger which will go up the footpath. Assuming you have access to the road on the left, bulk materials could be dropped over the hedge by Hiab and waste taken away with a grab truck. Suggest getting a local builder round to have a look on the ground.

As it’s not leaking continuously, the problem is downstream from the mixer, from the outlet of the valve to the hose. Can you take the mixer cover plate off to see any leaks? Mine is turn and lock fitting. What about the hose outlet, have you tried taking that off?

Looks like a very old school 🙄