Bonner

Another vote for MVHR here, this is my inlet pre-filter after a month! We are in a rural village so probably a combination of wood burner smoke and agricultural dust. Anyway I prefer not to let fresh air in the house.

I think @craig is an expert in window specifications.

Well done for getting those off! It certainly points towards the connecting pipe unless there is a leak from the waste pipe (water can track across the ceiling and only appear at joints). Otherwise you will probably need to cut out the wall to find out what’s going on. Note I am only an amateur DIYer, suggest you wait for @Nickfromwales professional advice before going any further.

Anything is possible, just costs a bit more to carry materials in and out. For an extension you will only need a mini/micro digger which will go up the footpath. Assuming you have access to the road on the left, bulk materials could be dropped over the hedge by Hiab and waste taken away with a grab truck. Suggest getting a local builder round to have a look on the ground.

As it’s not leaking continuously, the problem is downstream from the mixer, from the outlet of the valve to the hose. Can you take the mixer cover plate off to see any leaks? Mine is turn and lock fitting. What about the hose outlet, have you tried taking that off?

Looks like a very old school 🙄

I told them that I am a qualified engineer which they accepted (I am a chartered mechanical engineer but knew bugger all about MVHR before I started!). Was going to do a report but they never asked for one.

I bought a brand new unit was about £750, gone up a bit in the last three years. Rigid plastic ducting and valves were another £500. The MVHR is very basic but does exactly what it needs to, runs continuously at 30% speed with occasional manual boost. Of course you can spend more on sensors and auto controls but even a basic unit is infinitely better than trickle vents. https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/en_GB/p/itho-daalderop-hru-350-eco-unit-hr-rft-high-rise-350m3-h/9795/

MVHR is one of the best things I did, wouldn’t like to live in a house without one. Self installed for less than £2k.

I have these oak veneer doors throughout, mixed with tiles, laminate and carpet floors. https://deantawood.co.uk/products/internal-doors/oak-doors/galway-interior-oak-door/ Personally I would avoid painted doors whether factory or DIY as they show marks.

Normally 22mm to baths. 10mm is pointless IMO, more expense and complication with little or no benefit. Make sure isolation valves are full bore.

Yes, we have a combination of solid floor and B&B. Due to cock up we ended up with a step but easily levelled up with additional 25mm insulation on the low side. Continuous screed throughout.

Just looked back at my application form. Since they ask for copies of your planning approval and drawings, I think you need to reflect details shown in these documents, in your application. So if your drawings show a workshop, that is what you need to declare. I can’t see anything in the rules which exclude a workshop, garages are clearly allowed so why not similar permanent structures? Sheds are excluded presumably because they are not considered permanent.

In my recent experience of VAT claim, they ask few questions. I would just put the SIPs on the materials list (no explanation is necessary). If they ask what they are for, then you can argue it’s part of the approved plans. As per the snip, you can claim for materials incorporated in the site and the list of allowable items rules out sheds but not workshops. There won’t be any issue with the ASHP, again no explanation needed unless they ask. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-refunds-for-new-builds-if-youre-a-diy-housebuilder#goods-you-can-or-cannot-claim-for

+1 for big drawers rather than cupboards. Separate pantry is best for all the paraphernalia.

Are you buying a workshop kit or just materials? Contractor to build it? ASHP installation by self or contractor?

Depends where you are in the country but even if you have it redone, it may still need a lot of water to keep it green year round. If it bugs you so much, think seriously about a gravel garden with drought tolerant planting.

Lots of questions there and difficult to advise without knowing what this feature is. However if you are in England, you can move in before finishing the build and get building control completion without installing a non-structural feature. Planning enforcement may catch up with you sooner or later but could give you time to come up with a solution.

Varies between roller and Roman blinds, up to 50mm. Actually all the blinds cover the window head anyway, you lose a bit less window if your reveal is higher.

Likewise, just dot and dabbed on the block openings. Leaves 30-35mm of frame for me, excluding the opening window frame. The head is a bit deeper which suits us for blinds mounted in the reveals.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-refunds-for-new-builds-if-youre-a-diy-housebuilder All the rules are here. Some contractors may ask for a copy your planning consent as proof. If they are still not convinced, tell them to talk to their accountant

The devil is in the detail, you pay 0% VAT on demolition and landscaping works which is approved in the planning permission. If your permission is limited to only part of the site, you cannot claim for costs associated with another part. Note, the works must be zero rated by the contractor.

We moved in 18 months before BC completion. Went through a broker to our ensure situation was fully understood and documented. Cost a bit more than standard house insurance.

Maybe a picture would help … it’s the heating fluid which is circulated, not hot water from the tank. UFH heating is controlled separately.

They are tapped off the DHW circuit so come on whenever hot water demand occurs, throughout the year.