Bonner

Thanks, I was thinking about a gate valve but wondered if I should consider something more sophisticated 🤔

I have towel radiators on a by pass circuit so they come on with DHW demand. This works well apart from noise during heat pump overrun. All the flow seems to be directed through the towel rads when the DHW valve has closed and, particularly in the summer, the rad valves are nearly closed. I am thinking about installing a flow control valve in the plant room rather than rely on the rad valves to throttle the flow. I am conscious that there will still be some noise and this will transit through the piping so what would be the best type of valve to install (22mm)? Thanks

One of the best things I did, self installed in a similar sized house for less than £2k. Very simple unit, no sensors, rigid plastic ducting. Wouldn’t want to live in a house without it.

Keep it simple, use gravity to do the job. The drainage field will balance itself over time. I would only use a pump if absolutely necessary.

Welcome, I have found it very helpful to share problems and maybe even solve some!

I don’t think anyone can tell for certain however there are some good ‘all surface’ paints available (ex. Bedec, Zinsser).

Holiday exchange or house sitting should be allowed, somehow avoid any arrangement which could be construed as ‘letting out’? Otherwise, I would agree with @Alan Ambrose, talk to your LA CIL officer. And by talk I mean on the phone, not an email, you can get a completely different answer through dialogue (by all means follow up with an email for the record).

I had a nightmare with eaves detailing which the architect had drawn but didn’t work with the necessary roof structure. Make sure the main structural elements are worked out before ‘signing off’ the design.

12m steels are going to expand and contract a bit. If they are bearing on something which doesn’t move it may make a noise depending on the materials. I have found noise problems with joist ends on steel. Solution was to create a slip joint with plastic sheet.

What is the white stuff around this joint? Shouldn’t need any sealant on these flue systems. You might need to remake some joints or replace an elbow, certainly don’t need a whole new flue!

By thin tray, I guess you mean floor level without risers? If so the answer is probably not unless you can lower the whole waste below floor level. The basics are, trap needs to be connected directly to your shower tray outlet and the waste pipe should fall continuously all the way. If it drops and then rises, it will collect gunge and eventually block. You can get low rise shower traps to minimise the height of your tray but it probably had one already.

Can’t help then. I had a few bits left over after installing my Nolte kitchen, nothing has fallen off yet …

Partially painting it is pointless. You will get a thin layer of surface corrosion but won’t affect the structural integrity or life time of the beam.

I have the same provider, no idea if it will be any use but then the alternative was at least double the price without inspiring any more confidence.

Used to secure a door front on integrated appliances?

A combination of low demand and health and safety regulations, speaking of which I don’t think anyone would machine treated timber. Maybe rethink your repair solution to utilise standard sizes?

Rent a dumper for a few days if you have only one job to do?

Also no experience because I find the common wheelbarrow one of the most versatile pieces of equipment I have ever used. Adding power is going to make it heavier and less manoeuvrable. Also doubt they will do all the work for you, still needs loading etc. Why do you think you need such a thing? Could you not carry smaller loads instead?

To move forward, I would suggest you need two parties; an independent ‘expert’ who acts for you and a competent metal roof contractor. The independent may be another architect or technician who can survey the existing issues and propose practical solutions. When you are in this position it is difficult to be pragmatic, maybe there is no ‘elegant’ solution for some of the details and you will have to compromise. Looking back, I am largely echoing what @Temp has suggested

Looks like Indian sandstone which is quite thin 25-35mm and available in various colours. York stone slabs are normally thicker 45-60mm.

Another vote for talking directly to the CIL coordinator. Our contact was very helpful.

I am quite sure the ‘site’ in question is the new plot however this is something you can’t afford to get wrong! I would phone your local authority to double check, preferably getting it confirmed in an email.

You need the capacity (volume) to contain a storm surge of rainwater. If you can demonstrate your pipes have 21m3 capacity, BC should accept it.

No, solid timber rafters in this case although I am sure they could have designed with I-beams if needed.

Not necessary in England (AFAIK). I did use a SE but only for a raft foundation and one steel beam. Everything else was covered by manufacturer’s specifications/calcs.