Bonner

Thanks, appreciate the honest review. A few points to think about but I am not put off, still seems a good system

Planning drawings only, BC drgs not needed

Planning decision notice and general drawings, I sent floor plans and elevations. They just need something to verify that you have permission and rough scale of the development.

Other way round, I have windows in RAL7015 Slate Grey and was looking for matching profiles etc. Found BS18B29 a close match but depends on product, surface finish and manufacturer.

Maybe look at the work of good architects for inspiration (and possibly hire one)?

I would be inclined towards battens, have you installed underfloor heating, that might make a difference?

I am looking at a similar system, how have you got on with it?

As above, depends on the MCS installer’s calculations … which depend on assumptions made. You certainly don’t need UFH upstairs but the calcs may show the need for some heating in the bedrooms. I went for (wet) towel rads in the bathrooms and radiators in bedrooms, were quite cheap to install but rarely needed.

I also tend to avoid the latest fads. My first house had open fire places in every room and leaky sash windows, plenty of fresh air without any fans. Now though, with modern standards of air tightness and more concerns about VOCs, CO2 levels etc. active ventilation is essential for most new houses.

I agree with your comments about passive cooling. MVHR doesn’t help much with cooling but has so many other benefits and it is not necessary to spend £12k. I self installed this unit and spent another £1k on rigid plastic ducting and other materials. Of course you can spec something more sophisticated but this works very well and I wouldn’t want to live in a house without MVHR and I don’t want people to be put off by these quotes. https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/en_GB/p/itho-daalderop-mvhr-hru-350-eco-unit-lr-rft-low-rise-350m3-h/9945/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22563121607&gbraid=0AAAAAB0qKPDJ-kmgBYRAOrw1rwDPtmlOW&gclid=Cj0KCQiAiKzIBhCOARIsAKpKLAOKcw9T7CHFnPu-qqBlrN6gM85GPOdAMbqVvfGZpXWti5CANHf1dMwaAjWTEALw_wcB

Yes, trades must invoice zero rated for all labour and materials. You can buy materials and reclaim VAT as long as they are on the eligible list https://www.gov.uk/guidance/goods-and-services-you-can-claim-for-under-the-vat-diy-scheme Your accountant is talking nonsense 🙄

I think it looks better with different wall cladding to the roofing material but that’s just my personal preference. The slate roof will look absolutely fine and will be much cheaper than zinc.

I agree the entrance elevation looks a bit odd. Do you have a drawing of this arrangement? I think it would look better with the same cladding to ground and first floor. Also the same width, don’t know why the first floor is the same width as the roof?

Don’t believe these prices, wouldn’t be paying with my money unless credit card covers it.

Don’t need one, just enjoyed watching this. Useful for small jobs, but too cheap to be reliable?

Just access and mobility around the house which is arguably more important than level entrance ways. I actually like the interest that split levels lend to an interior but it is not practical for everyone.

Overall really nice design. I would think very carefully about having split level ground floor. Also check there is sufficient space for a comfortable staircase, looks a bit tight.

No but it looks at least 30 years old so unlikely to be any back up. Does it work? Obviously the critical part is the piping, is it rubber tube?

The tilers should sort out the ridge when they do the lathing but they might say it’s not needed. The ridge normally just sits on the tiles so I am not sure what the square section is for?

It is difficult to see the dimensions but the kitchen looks small for the size of the house, particularly with the doors and thoroughfare to the living room. This is my kitchen area for comparison, cupboards and worktops on three sides, generous island with plenty of space around it and no thoroughfare.

It depends what roof covering will be and anticipated loading. Assuming you don’t want to engage a structural engineer, I would suggest looking at specifications of prefabricated garages and shed. The slope is more than adequate for a ‘flat’ roof, ie. felt or fibreglass covering. Wall plate should be the same width as the wall, 4” for a single brick/block.

The inspector didn’t show interest in any systems, apart from electrical test certificate. It may be as simple as opening the access chambers and flushing a toilet but I would wait until they ask.

My warranty inspector wasn’t interested in any systems except the electrics. It is unlikely the warranty will cover any equipment faults, they just want to know that you are not going to burn the place down!

My flipper panel was supplied separately but it may depend on the manufacturer. Suggest you find out the make and model and look at the hinge fixings, you should be able to take it off.

Happened to me twice, once at home and once in a hotel room, wasn’t anywhere near them at the time. It’s pretty much a spontaneous explosion, could be a combination of material fault and thermal expansion.