Bonner

Very easy DIY, as I did. Otherwise a joiner may charge for a days work, £250?

They are all made bespoke anyway. An extended stringer should be relatively low cost and neat solution if you don’t want the newel post down to the floor. Still need the SE to confirm and then specify exactly what you want to the manufacturer (others are available if they won’t do it).

The difference between DIY and professional towers is like chalk and cheese. Don’t get me wrong, I was going to get a DIY one but the trades wouldn’t have worked off it. I think someone on here said they sold their’s for the same as they paid second hand, so I bought a professional tower. Trouble is, I don’t want to sell it …

Sorry thought you were talking about the MiTower, that is about 5x the weight (and the price!). I agree, would hesitate to use something that light.

Where did you get that figure from? It’s light for what it is but probably nearer 200kg

I bought a second hand MiTower (5m, 2 person) on FB, very solid and stable. Not cheap but should get back what I paid for it.

I use genuine yellow (Dewalt) batteries with an adapter. Seems to work perfectly. Everything else is DW, just didn’t like their strimmers.

Even I bought a Makita strimmer and I’ve got yellow batteries! (+cheap adapter off eBay).

Have you considered flipping the bedroom layout so your bathrooms are over the utility? Reduces pipe lengths, hot water losses and unwanted noise in living areas.

I have all plant in the utility, makes it a little cramped for washing etc. but yours looks double the size.

Nail gun is much faster for large repetitive jobs but expensive and not much gain for smaller jobs. Strength depends as much on the joint as the fixing but screws generally equal or better than nails.

👍 You can have a rest half way up

‘Other suppliers are available’ (Pears and TK for examples) all use similar tools. Saves doing the Math and gives you lots of detail including 2D & 3D images. I ended up with 39 degree pitch which was more than I wanted having failed to identify the constraints at design stage. Having said that, it feels ‘right’ now it’s finished.

Only appliances you can reclaim VAT are extractors or hob with built in extractor. Don’t believe suppliers can zero rate any part of a kitchen unless they are fitting it, ie. you should pay the VAT and reclaim it at the end.

Plus the cost of the wall to stick them on?

We only had a porta-loo for welfare, no mains water needed for ground works. If they need water for washing down, ask them to bring a bowser, they will be used to working on unserviced sites. Alternatively have you got friendly neighbour with a hose pipe?

Correct in that case but I couldn’t see OSB on the drawing. You don’t need to lift the tiles with the fascia but it does need to be fixed at the right height to avoid a large gap and fix the guttering in the right place.

Yes eaves tray goes on first, before roof membrane. Not sure what you mean missing counter battens? The first tile batten is shown on the drawing. No need for the battens behind the fascia, it can be fixed directly to the rafter ends although you need to ensure the the last row of tiles sit correctly, at the same angle as others or kick up slightly.

I think it is perfect under the window, not too close to the hob (ideal in fact). Personally, I would not want the sink under wall cupboards.

Assuming the hob is on a peninsular, it doesn’t look like there is room behind it? In any case, you wouldn’t want to walk round the other side to use the sink, it is in the best place under the window. Btw I would put the dishwasher closer to the sink, near the corner.

Fully moved in 18 months before completion certificate issued, used it as a store for a year before that. We registered for council tax from moving in, not for storing stuff.

Have you tried modelling your build up using Ubakus? Tried to paste a link but can’t.

I am not aware of any particular standard, as long as rainwater does not run towards the house or pool on the slabs, 1:80 should be fine

As you have worked out, second one is probably best. Priority is to ensure the adjacent paving falls (slightly) away from the house. Then it is a matter of working with the lay of the land as best you can. Trying to make the top patio fall away from the house may need a lot more excavation and a step/retaining wall