steveoelliott

Thanks a lot... I ideally wanted a colour and I have been recommended this: https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/ronseal-ultimate-protection-decking-paint

That's a very good idea. I've e-mailed them a picture first and will speak to them if needed.

They push inwards to the center of the drawer and I've tried them both in the in and out position and it seeming makes no difference.

Thanks for this... I have given it a go but doesn't seem to want to budge. I note the runners are Blum Tandem Plus but even with a quick search I can't find ones that look the same for an example on removal.

Hi, I feel a bit daft asking this question but I can't fathom how to remove these drawers from these runners. I thought it best to ask rather than force and break. There are some things that have fallen behind and I can't reach in and get them without removing one of the drawers. Thank you.

Hi, I was recommended Sadolin Superdec for painting / treating our decking. However, I have read that it is not suitable for decking. I was wondering why this might be the case as I like the look of the product and have seen others use it. Has anybody else used it for decking? Thanks in advance...

Thanks for the response... I was talking about the scenario of a flat roof actually not a pitched roof with sarking / felt on the underside of tiles.

Based on this, one might never know about a leaking roof (unless severe).

I have asked this question before but never got an answer but I am intrigued... If a VCL is installed correctly, would it effectively mask a minor leak in the roof membrane owing to the fact water would presumably be directed down the internal wall cavity.

Hi, I have discovered that on one area of a chrome towel radiator we have that there are some spots. I’m not sure what caused this but they appear to be raised. I wonder if some cleaning agent has caused this but I am careful not to use abrasive cleaners on these. I presume towel radiators are chrome plated so wondered if using something like Peek metal cleaner would be safe? I’ll try behind the rad first to be safe of course.

It’s very nice. If you fancy coming to Kettering and pricing mine up let me know lol… sure you’re busy enough! Certainly got a lot of ideas.

Looks sweet! I’m envious. So the vesa mount here us screwed to ply I presume? Looks like it.

Good shout on the 18mm ply as you should get a decent fixing onto that and even if you change brackets with different screw holes / positions it will accommodate. Have you got any pictures?

Thank you… Would you leave the TV affixed to the solid brick wall or just stud out wall entirely (with storage and opening for TV). Question is having good fixings for heavy TVs and not relying on plasterboard! Guess I could ensure there are plenty of timbers within to screw to.

Hi Folks, A while ago I hung our 65 inch LG gallery TV with a B and O soundbar but for quickness just hid cables in decorative trunking. As we think about decorating now is the time to consider hiding these. I have 3 HDMI cables, USB extender cable and power cable going through the trunking; the sound bar just has a single HDMI in and out. The wall is an external solid brick wall (not dot and dabbed) and not in a place I see it as it faces a field to the side of our house. I see my options as follows: 1) Go external with all the wires using suitable conduit outside and bore three holes in the wall where cables need to go in and out. Not exactly the most elegant but would work. 2) Chase out the wall and bury the wires in conduit , with 3 outlets and fill over. 3) Build some kind of media wall, clad the wall in something like nature wall and hide wires behind or have some false MDF panel screwed on the wall and make a feature of it with LED surround lights etc. Just keen to know others inputs or solutions?

Sounds like a strange question I know but I am wondering how often decorators are asked to paint a room (walls and ceilings) but asked to leave an existing papered wall in place. I ask as my wife is after having a feature wallpaper hung in a bedroom decorated ~3 years ago. It's far from tired and doesn't need decorating but I have been told by two local decorators that papering the wall at this stage is silly and it would make more sense to do the room, papering the wall last. The reason given is with the new paper in place when we go to paint the walls / ceilings, a lot has to be done to protect the wallpaper in place. Is this something that comes up often? Am I right to just try to persuade my wife to wait until we decorate the room in it's entirety? Thanks...

I get it... So for you, Everbuild Puraflex 40 is the choice?

I get your point but irrespective of price it has some good write ups. Ultimately it's not really a price dependent decision.

Thanks all... I've been told the HB42 Caulk is supposed to be super flexible,

Hi, Many of my windows have had silicone sealant applied around the inside in the past and having recently asked a decorator to quote for a job, I asked if he could cut out and renew the sealant as it was looking old and tired. He said they use caulk as opposed to silicone and explained that he isn't able to get a great finish with silicone. The challenge with caulk is, I have had this applied to windows elsewhere and whilst it looks good at first, in time it inevitably cracks and looks nasty as opposed to silicone that has more "stretch to it!" Thanks.

Hi Folks, On our bath I have noticed that around the plug hole there is some residue which I believe to be sealant probably covered in crud from water over many months / years. The question is, is it safe for me to cut this away carefully? I'm guessing that the seal is between the plug base and the bath so whatever I cut from around the outside is doing nothing. Many Thanks Stephen Elliott

One thing that has always concerned me is that a correctly installed VCL would prevent detection of a leak in the roof membrane. When we had a leak it manifested itself as blown plaster on the wall and water tracking back from the wall across the ceiling. We have a VCL; whether it is installed correctly or not I don't know as the work was performed before we purchased the house. With a VCL I believe a very slight leak may go undetected for sometime which may also cause problems for the roof I would imagine. Of course, that doesn't mean you should omit one but historically they weren't installed AFAIK.

Seems to rise slightly to the extractor and then slightly down after to the soffit vent. However, I am thinking that a change to insulated ducting and just elevating the extractor a little will prevent water collecting in it.

It’s the thin white flexi pipe currently.

Hi all, We have a loft inline extractor from a small en-suite that was installed just over a year ago. In fairness we have only actually used the extractor / shower once several months ago but today I turned it on and noticed a strange noise that sounded like the fan was coming into contact with something and from the en suite it sounded like water. Upon further inspection in the loft, when the fan is on, I can hear water that has accumulated within the fan unit. I have deduced this must be condensation from the very cold temperatures we have had recently. The extractor is ceiling mounted in a bedroom with the flexi ducting going up into the loft, the inline extractor fan unit is mounted on a piece of OSB in the loft and then more flexi ducting to a sofit vent. Wondering how best to tackle this... I will of course ask my electrician to take a look but I was thinking about raising the extractor fan perhaps a few inches so water can't collect here but then I read about condensation traps. This must be a common issue with inline loft extractors but not one I considered prior. Thanks...