GaryM

@andy looking at the install document on VMZinc, the main difference is they have put the membrane at the bottom of the void where as in my design the membrane is on the ply under the standing seam. Like you no expert, but from what I can tell, with a membrane at top there is no need for one at the bottom of the void. I will talk to the architect soon.

I've been looking on google searching zinc and standing seam suppliers sites and so far I can only see example like mine. I'm trying to find examples of double boarding and it's advantages. I will talk to my architect, who despites comments made on this tread does seem very capable and know what he is talking about.

Thanks for the reply Andy, Yes we do, i think the difference is yours looks like doubled boarded and battened, is that right

I now realise the above is rubbish and we have half the specified insulation in there.

@TonyTI'm re looking at the numbers. Thanks for replying

Thanks for the reply. I'm rechecking the numbers and the architect is as well, we also have SAP calcs to refer to. Note: at the moment we are assuming it is drying out to quickly, it seems the most logical reason

Ok I will double check the insulation values, I'm sure the glass wool I looked at was the same as the solid, but I will check. I don't know the membrane of the top of my head. I am pretty confident the builder has not stuffed it up willy nillly, I saw them do a lot of it and they did take care and afterwards it was laying very even

Just an update: I've spoken to Architect: he is not that concern about the use for glass wool, he says it should still leave a good 100mm get for ventilation. The Glass Wool used had a better insulation properties 0.044w/mk which is the same as the solid PIR I believe.

He change to "fluffy" and was putting up when I saw it, he said "We can't get PIR so we are doubling up on insulation, from 120mm to 250mm". I'm not a builder so just went with what he said. It was only when this problem occurred and I went back to the drawings and reading through the architects spec that I noticed he had specified 210mm PIR. Generally the builders have been good (but slow) and pride themselves on the quality of build, so from what you and others are saying, I am a bit shocked.

Yes that's my worry. Roofer, who was a skilled zinc roofer, said the metal was well ventilated, but he just fitted the membrane and metal, that was before all the fibre was fitted.

That's my worry, I've just been going through drawings and as mentioned above, drawings specfiy 210mm of solid PIR with foil back with a 50 mm void above, builders said they could not get it and used 250mm of glass fibre instead. So three concerns, has void been filed with glass fibre ,2 if used i guess foil on of PIR would have reflect heat and 3, the U value of glass fibre is only half of PIR. So could this be the main problem or something else? i would image builder and architect will be pointing fingers, I just want to know what is causing it and get it fixed and move on

Aluminium roofs have to go on board. The should be a void over the insulation, the architect did specify 210mm PIR with 50mm void above, but buildings said they could not get PIR and use glass fibre instead. I am annoyed as Glass fibre is not as good as soild PIR, so I do have a worry that air is not ventilating as it should.

Hi All We have a standing seam roof, with a vaulted ceiling below and we are get excessive shrinkage in the plasterboards, gaps up to 5mm have opened up overnight. Construction is Aluminium standing seam roof > membrane > 18mmOSB > Posi beams with 250mm glass fibre insulation > foiled back plasterboard. Plasterer is then spray coating plaster ( 2 layers x 1 mm thick), all joints have be meshed well. Next day mesh had bulge on joints and when remove revealed the 5mm gaps. They have redone joints and problem has reappeared, not quite as bad. I have meeting with Builder and Architect to discuss the way forward, what is causing it and how to solve it. Our get feeling is roof is heating up and cooling too fast, the plaster has dried in a day and it normally takes 2 to 3. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks

It's not quite the same, the oak and steel is structural, but above is rafters with 150mm of insulation

Weird, I did a search for tiling hexagonal tiles and didn't see them ?

I think I may allow my artistic side win out and it looks better without tiles in those locations ?

Looks good and very similar to my extension and kitchen. I had 800x800 porcelain tiles, I may have been lucky but with a borrowed Rubi cutter I got the 60 M2 job done with very few breakages. 2 years on I have another 40 M2 to do, I managed to borrow the same cutter, let's hope

Just about to start wall tiling with hexagonal wall tiles for the first time. Any tips on how to go about it different from normal rectangular tiles. Thanks

A Titan SDS drill from Screwfix £55 Used on loads of concrete screws, removed all the render from house, garage and sheds. Well worth it

Hi, The architect we used worked very well with south northants, we got planning permission on a building that pushed their boundaries. I'm very happy to recommend him: Jonathon Williams Architect, Sketchproposal Limited T: (+44) 01604 871245 M: 0772 487 9060 mail@sketchproposal.com www.sketchproposal.com

I 've just purchased two baths, one was a Trojancast 1700 x 750. It's actually smaller as that is it's overall size, bath opening is nearer 1600. The other was a Clearwater 1800 X 800, this was much bigger as the side were less than 10mm thick, so bath opening was nearly 1800, it feels much bigger. It was a resin stone bath, found it on eBay at half price

I'm not sure what they are, I will take a look at the quote

And now to supply and and install cills and trims they want another £2500 !! 3 years a go I had Origin bifolds gable end and large picture windows supplied, 22m2 of double glazing the total cost to supply and install was £8500, I had 9 upvc windows supplied and installed £3200. So Idealcombi wants £10500 for the install. Just working out my strategy, there is no way I'm going to pay £2500

It's worst than that, it was 3 guys, the youngest was very new to it and just held things:-). We also had to pay £850 for flinch plates and now they are saying I have pay extra for the full and clocking trims to be made and installed. Crane was 1640 +vat I like the windows and doors but I will contest the extra costs

Idealcombi official installers. The install seemed pricy for two days work £4000+ vat + crane but it seems to be the going rate. They have to come back to do trims and cloaks, which they may try to charge more for.