GaryM
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Everything posted by GaryM
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@the_r_sole The quote for materials was for coated aluminium, I was quite happy with that. I do have 8 roof lights and there is a dormer plus a number of verges and ridges so it is quite complicated, I was just a little surprised about amount. I'm going to use standard plastic eaves and soffits to help reduce costs. If the installation cost is quite standard, then I will go with it. Thanks
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Is the £12,000 just for installing and not the materials? if it so is in line with mine.
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@PeteI've just finished putting a box profile roof on my sheds, that was bad enough, I'm great with heights so I give doing it my self a miss
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Hi All, We are having a standing seam roof on our house and are getting a few quotes in. I'm surprised at the amount for installing the roof, it's quite large 240m2 but they are all around £8000+vat for fitting. I know it is difficult to say, but how long does it take to fit a standing seam roof on a detached house? My logic is 2 people over 5 days at £250 = £2500 , will it take a lot longer or are day rates a lot more?
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As the mesh will easily be seen (35mm gaps) I don't really want to use stainless, I had seen this https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/pet-proof-insect-screen.html As it is black it will blend into the background
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For my outbuilding I will will risk it without mesh, the cladding is easy to access and to clean the back if I need to. However I will see how attractive it is to the wrong type of wildlife and if required use a mesh when I clad my house. As a matter of interest what size mesh did you use?
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On my brick outbuildings I agree with you. I will have bigger gaps, 35mm with 44mm air gap. We might get birds or mice nesting I can live with that. Just hope wasp don't like it. However on my house, i'm not so sure although you it will be on block, it will be higher up so harder to clean out.
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@the_r_sole I miss understood a previous comment. Have you done any thing to stop pests getting in behind the battens? it's been suggested to me I put a mesh behind the cladding battens, but on top of the wall battens, have you done anything like this ? if I did I may use something like this https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/fly-screen-insect-mesh/special-offers/pet-proof-insect-screen.html
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@the_r_sole that looks good. To confirm that is using shadow gap cladding like this https://www.timberulove.co.uk/products/siberian-larch-shadow-gap-cladding-a-grade-28-mm-thickness/
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@ToughButterCupGood luck with the job on Monday, please post pictures. I will make a measuring stick, with the proposed cladding spacing marked on it to see how it all fits around the pesky interruptions. I think I will batten all around the window and door openings, then fine adjustments of spacing, as @the_r_sole suggested, and hope the main vertical cladding line up okay with openings. I still looking into the idea a pest membrane directly behind the open joint cladding, for my old outbuildings I'm not too bothered about the vermin control, we live in the country and mice and rats up and down the garden. However I would be concerned on my house, I could use something like this on the battens, https://www.meshdirect.co.uk/fly-screen-insect-mesh/special-offers/pet-proof-insect-screen.html. What are others doing? bear in mind this wide open joint cladding. Thanks
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ToughButterCup, as my wife says to me "your over thinking it, just get on with it" she's a hard women I have one trick up my sleeve to make life easier, on the none opening windows I may just run the cladding over them, the gaps will be quite wide around 35mm. Someone did suggest to me I should use a second membrane, perhaps a fine mesh, over the tops of the battens, directly behind the cladding, to stop vermin,. I'm not too sure about this, will do some searching to see if I can find a suitable material. It will need to be dark fine mesh, but must allow moisture to escape from the cladding.
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Thank you for all of you replies I will take another look at Russwood info. I intend to do it slightly different to the picture, I've extended the roof (metal 32/1000 profile) to cover the tops of the timbers. Gc100, vertical shadow gap is our fallback or the house if we are not happy with the vertical battens on the outbuildings. I will take a look at the membrane, I had seen this one https://www.proctorgroup.com/products/facadeshield it says cladding needs to at least 50% of the area. I need to do my maths on the spacing, i trying to figure out the spacing around the windows on the outbuildings as they do not fall neatly on the spacing.
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I'm using the same 44mm x 44mm timbers for the cladding and battens, I intend to chamfer them myself. Did a quick test will a circular saw and Siberian larch and it worked quite well, but a saw table would be better.
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Hi All, I'm just starting a project of remodelling our house, which includes lifting the roof and adding a second story. My intention is to clad the first floor with Siberian larch vertical 44mm x 44mm battens similar to the attached. To test the idea out I will use it on some outbuildings, However I'm finding it very hard to find details in the technique. The outbuildings are brick so I will not use UV membrane, ( i will on the house). I will use chamfered horizontal battens attached to the wall with masonry screws, for the houses I will use thin vertical battens, then chamfered horizontal battens. Then the vertical cladding battens will be fixed via cladding screws to the horizontal battens. All the information I'm finding on line is mainly standard closed joint cladding and does not seem appropriate, i.e. use mesh to stop vermin or details around openings. Can anyone point me to any appropriate information. Thanks Gary
