GaryM

Cheers mate the render cost more than the cladding

I thought of using the shadow gap cladding, it can look good, but I just loved the look of the battens. We did discuss the insect mesh with the building inspector and it was decided we didn't need it. I wouldn't want to paint over 1km of timber, I think we ( ha, l) just did the vertical and cross battens around a mere 400m :-). It took some time, but pleased with the results, now to see how well it lasts

Thanks for the comment. We put horizontal battens close to the top and bottom to help reduce any warping, the bottom one really helps clean up the look. We used a UV membrane by powerlon designed for open joint cladding

The cladding now with the scaffold down. I am really ok pleased with the look of it.

Well it has been some time since I posted about the cladding, well finally we are making progress. Attached is the latest photo

Here is an Image i've done for a local fabricator to come up with ideas. the central windows panes are the doors that pop out (around 100mm) and slide either side. I'll apricate any ideas.

I have done a search and could not see any that would work, so currently talking to a local fabricator who is looking at ideas for me.

Hi I hope some one can give me ideas for a juliet balcony to satisfy building control and my aesthetics. We have a first floor level Idealcombi glazed gable screen 7.5m wide, in the middle are push out and slide double sliding doors. https://products.idealcombi.com/en/product/futura-plus-double-sliding-door/. We want a frameless glass juliet balcony to cover the opening gap of around 2.5m, the door pop out around 100mm but bigger problem is the brick wall under the opening is not even , on one side under the opening is a capped of unused chimney so we can't easily fasten there, we could look at removing a but more of the chimney although it has just been rendered. We had though of some sort of Z bars to bolt to the wall and hold the glass, but I can't see anything like it on the web. Another option is an internal balcony, but min height is 1100mm , 200mm higher than the handles, so we can't reach them if we want tight up to the frame. Any ideas? Thanks

It has an inbuilt tank and designed so you don't need any other components.

I'm not sure if your are referring to my post, but this does not happen with the DAB system I'm using i,. I does not in crease flowrate (just marginally), just the pressure. The tank is just used to give instant pressure, once flowing the pump is pumping the main water straight through system.

yes hot soapy water did the job. Mind you it's doesn't solve drilling through a pipe... idiot ?

I give it a go. it's plaster and emulsion so hot water should work it. Thanks

The plaster and decorator have sprayed plaster and some emulsion on the radiator 10mm Hep2O pipe, before I have fitted the radiators. So what is the best way to clean the pipes so push fittings work? Thanks

I'll answer my own post. After talking with Wunda and wiser I've decided to go all in with Wunda, it reminded how good there support is. We will have one system to control both ufh and rads. We could have gone with only doing rads side, but it was not that much cheaper. Wiser did say they are shortly releasing a ufh controller as well but I want to get on with it now. So wunda it is. anyone want to buy some pre used wireless ufh controls?

Looking for advice. We have done extensive work on the house over the last year, which lead to all of the pipe and radiators being changed. We have existing Wunda UFH which we extended and is currently working well. The system is One manifold, with five loops divided in to two zones for two rooms. It all uses wunda wireless thermostats and receivers. The radiators where all on a separate zone, with their own salus thermostat and receiver. both receivers via and wiring box are connected to a combi boiler and two motorised valves which controls flow to ufh and/or radiators. So with all the new and replacement radiators I want to switch over to smart controls so I can control individual rooms. UFH works ok so not sure if I want to replace it's controls I could go with the Wundasmart system and replace all the controls for ufh and new wunda smart radiator heads and thermostats. I've been told by them I would have to use the radiator and ufh circuits as 2 separate channels and wire the two motorised valves in to it. There are benefits to this, it should all work with each other an the whole system is smart, but wunda smart is quite expensive, i'll be replacing stuff that is working ok and finally wundasmart is quite new and not well tested. Another option would be to leaf ufh as is and add Drayton wiser smart controls for the rads, I would then replace the current salus receiver with wiser smart receiver and wire both it and the wunda ufh receiver to boiler and motorised valves. This would be less expensive, drayton wiser smart controls get good reviews, it's also opentherm as is my intergas boiler and it's a lot cheaper. The negative, will I get the two systems integrated right? only the radiators side is smart, will the opentherm side be wasted an ufh is just on off. I guess the final option is to replace all controls with another make. Sorry about the long email, just looking for advice and a sounding board. Thanks

There are some interesting systems here, as mentioned I just went for this simple DAB systems, DAB E.Sybox Mini 3. It works really well to improve water pressure for the whole house. It's very simple to install, just put in your main water supply. I had low flow around 10 ltr /s and low pressure 1.1 bar. It seems to help flow a little (although in theory it shouldn't ) but pressure is fantastic, I have at 2.5 bar and it instant as soon as you turn the tab. I use a combination boiler and now have great showers. I've been using it for three years and highly recommend it.

@Onoff I see you tanked on aqua board on the walls, I just have plasterboard on osb on the walls, will aquaseal be okay? it's why I quite like the Impey water guard kit mentioned by @ProDave above, although it is quite expensive

@faz I've used aquaseal before and got on well with it, so happy to use it if it's adequate. What are people thoughts about needing a decoupling mat? Nearly all the instructions I've seen for tanking just assume you are tiling on the tanking even if on board

Thanks @ProDave looks interesting, is it as easy to fit as the Impey video shows? If it is used on walls will it take weight of tiles, I think it said 30kg per m2 so I think it should be okay for 8mm subway tiles. looking at video i will only need to put it on the walls around shower area +600mm either side.

So you are suggesting use vinyl instead of tiles? I already have the tiles so with be tiling.

blimey, I just ran cat5 to the four corners of my house and put a wifi access point at each of the 4 outlets, it works a treat. Keep it simple ( otherwise I can't understand it )

Parted company with builder, so now looking at doing ensuite myself ( I have done a little in the past). The ensuite is a fair size 3m x 3m and we want to make it a wet room, mainly for a walk in shower and a free standing bath we already have that does not have a overflow. The floor is caberdek, a waterproof coated chipboard, in which I want to inlay a wetroom shower tray. I was thinking of using Aquaseal Waterproof Tanking kit which I have used before on the floor and walls, then tile on this. Will this be adequate? I was thinking of buying extra tanking joint tape and intend to seal all floor board joints as well. I know I could lay decoupling matting, but the floors are solid and waterproof to a degree, the tanking is rubber and so to some degree act as decoupling mat. So I hoping, keeping simple but doing it well would, would be adequate Your thoughts? Thanks

I'm not sure I can be too much help as my open joint cladding is going on concrete blocks. I have 25mm open joints and after discussing it with building control we are not using a insect mesh, joints are large so we can jet wash behind if need be. however we are doing UV resistant membrane, Powerlon UV 160 SA Black Facade Membrane.

Hi @Russell griffiths Did you find a solution for you floor sockets. We are looking at putting a couple in, but it will be recessed in 20mm engineered timber. so looking at options Thanks

Hi All, thanks for all the feedback. I want to correct a couple of assumptions, the current build is up and above building standards. It does have breathable membrane, it does have 50mm+ ventilation, it does have adequate insulation and it does have a vapour barrier. The builder did drop the ball with using glass wool instead of PiR, but glass wool is permitted for that use. At time our was in very short supply. There build quality is up at a high standard and they know what they are doing. I am disappointed the specified PIR was not used. One important item I didn't mention before is we do have over 20m2 of triple glazing in the space. Having discuss with architect, builder and an independent expert. We feel the probably cause will be heat in the room due to solar gain, we will be doing some testing, looking at the heat in the room and within the ventilation void. It's also worth pointing out the joints were redone using reinforced mesh tape and so it seems a lot better We need to keep an close on it.