JohnMo

No Condenser dryer, collects water the same as a heat pump one does. A condenser dryer uses an electric heating element, the HP a heat pump. A dryer that needs an outside vent is neither of the above, generally as old as the hills.

All finished

Manufacturer drying times assume a lot, full to capacity being one, but with an efficient spin cycle dry times are ok, generally no longer than an hour generally for us, in fact no noticeable difference from our last condensing dryer

Is it actually going to house? Or is it going to the grid, bypassing the house, when octopus wants it too? V2G is used to balance the grid only. The controller (energy company) uses your battery as a resource. Not sure on the impact on battery life? Bit like discharging and charging your phone a couple of times a day? Ok if leased, but if you bought the car, not sure I would bother. V2H is car to home only which may be want you want?

It's simple - our relationship on building, I built house, wife decided finishing and furnishings. She dealt with kitchen design, tile choice etc. I had input but she made the final call. YES!

i would read the T&C's about missing data on time of use tariffs. See what it says? Just looked at agile import prices yesterday they were almost zero, windy and sunny loads of renewable and no where for it to go. Will soon be like Australia where you get charged for export.

As @Russell griffiths says cut back the tar and replace with gravel. Gravel has a couple of advantages, its freely draining, and when raining helps stop water splashing up the walls. So a win win. Downside you may have a few weeds to pull out. Or ignore it.

That is some volume to barrow in and mix 10.5m³. A barrow holds circa 85L. So about 125 barrow loads. Get a man with a lorry and pump, be sensible, you get a better job done without killing your self.

You said up thread 100 cfm? Can only comment on what is written! Because your Brink can flow 400m³/h doesn't mean you set to flow that. You set to building regs.

It's not really that big a volume. To put it into perspective, a 200m² house with MVHR would be moving 50% more that 24/7/365.

For me I have always asked other trades for their recommendation. It filters out the wan#ers that are a pain to work with, or don't do a good job.

To throw a spanner in the works. You need to use stainless screws in the larch, but stainless and aluminium don't like each other, so the aluminium will start to disappear at the fixing holes.

PV all connected and commissioned. Generating around 800 to 900W in full sun. So not bad, considering how far north we are, and the panels are flat at zero degrees. Slat painting tomorrow.

Isn't there a set distance back from road edge that has to comply with roads specification? I think it's the same distance as you have to set the gate back from the road edge. So stone sets from gate inwards and build up and tarred to road spec from gate to road edge. The roads spec bit has to be done by a roads certified contractor.

I was the same when i did ours, so ended up getting windows partition on the Mac.

Does it matter? You have two applicable routes to go down, option 1 or 2. You make your choice and do it, why analyse and question, at the end of day choose one and move on. One being more or less effective changes nothing. You still have options 1 or 2! Sorry to be blunt, to much time thinking and not enough getting on with it. Option 1 is out, so leaves option 2. Not enough space to move digger about, get some with a digger that knows how to use it. They will step the digger over trenches as they go. You are not going to any more space constrained than our foundation, top of image is a 3m drop to right 6 to 8m drop. All compacted sand. Left of image is a root protection zone digger wasn't allowed to enter.

Times a good way to reduce noise. We lived in the centre of town, in an 1830s house, well ventilated as well. Single glazed sash traditional windows on the ground floor etc. Bedrooms had to have windows replaced, so we had wooden windows made but with decent seals on the sash and had them double glazed. First six months the house seemed noisy, but you then become noise blind, the background noise just gets blanked out. I would keep the house traditional, no way would I install uPVC windows. Find a local manufacturer of wooden windows get them to make what you want. If you don't have trickle vents now you don't need them.

Kinloss changed from RAF to Army barracks, it didn't close.

Some reading may be needed Here is the first test results I found. Circa 50dB reduction depending on gap between primary and secondary glazing. Acoustic-Performance-Data-Sheet.pdf

Attachment?

That is a similar spec to additional sound proofing for houses near RAF based.

We first bought a replacement one from Amazon it fitted but was a bit rubbish after a week - so went to B&Q, they had two sizes, one being just right. That was a few months ago, all still good

I would concentrate on windows with very good airtightness. Then triple glazed will be better than double for less noise transfer. I would assume wooden windows better than uPVC also. Trickle vents will be needed if you have them now (but only in dry rooms not bathrooms etc), but the normal window people fit stuff that costs 50p and are rubbish. You need to get acoustically damped, but also one that responds to humidity. Something like these - not cheap, but... https://www.bpdstore.co.uk/glidevale-acoustic-energy-saver-humidity-sensitive-trickle-ventilator/p/183

Solar panels on - 10 minutes for two of us. From above From below Paint slats next and wire PV up

The whole point is you definitely don't start with a flat sheet you use taper edge sheet. The tape etc sit in the taper. Maybe true if you go around your house hitting the walls - maybe some anger management is needed? 😁 Never seen an issue myself.