JohnMo

But you would do that to all internals walls anyway, so no different. We have an office the other side of the wall were the UFH manifold is located, timber stud wall - nothing the other side of the wall. Correct

Yep A 21st century essential, just like thermostats were in the 20th and still are to many - that isn't essential and doesn't add value. It's all needless tatt. I do have home assistant, but use it as a simple go to place to see stuff, never found control over the long term reliable. If it stopped working, I wouldn't replace it.

150mm for insulation and any screed above just isn't enough, you should be doing 150mm if PIR insulation at least with UFH, ideally 200mm. Then screed above that, would look at the minimum 50mm.

First time we lit ours, we melted. BUT, treat it low and slow, one log at a time, min air for a clear burn, let it burn almost completely repeat. 3 or 4 logs will heat whole house with ease, without melting you Go through doors not under wall - minimise risk. Ours is flowing through 7 loops, but heat pump has circulation down at 7L/min, can't hear a thing now and when flow is 3x that. No pump though and do you need one - no.

I had some high spots on our concrete slab, used a diamond disc and a hoover attachment/guard attachment on an angle grinder. Used a Henry hoover which survived. Worked well enough, but time consuming. You will still need a face mask.

150mm allowed for insulation and screed? Insulation below and around the structural slab? Where are you in the project - just planning or kart way through build?

Have you thought about a different tariff other than E7? Octopus does one for storage heaters, three cheap periods, one expensive period, and the rest of the time standard tariff. Instead of one long off peak and one very long expensive period. Then just drive immersion via an immersion time switch and allow to top up every cheap period, so you never run out of DHW. You would need a smart meter and time other heater via a time switch also.

That is a bit of trial and error, to see what works for your floor. There is a third option, a slightly elevated WC and thermostat. The ideal is one long run between thermostat trips if you go that route. The 3rd route gives a better overall CoP than a fixed flow temp as your flow temp reduces with warmer weather. Two things to look at, CoP but more importantly is energy input.

That would wake you up. Water mist, you could get back in to bed and finish your nights sleep. If my memory is correct sprinklers cool the flames, water mist essentially smoothers the fire, ok in electric switch rooms etc and delicate environments such as a house.

We have pumped hydro. They want battery banks but the NIMBYs get in the way.

You're as bad as @SteamyTea with your big cut and paste article

If you have solar and not being paid to export, each kWh stuffed into a battery is then worth normal electricity cost, so about 27p. Why would export or grid help, V2H may. Cosy is here for another 10 months anyway.

Plus additional cost and more to go wrong than needed. Did find a system than messed with flow rates rather than on/off valves, but by the time you finished, it add a £1000 just in parts. What benefit is questionable.

Really? Just get on get it done.

Our edge trim is two layers of 10x2 timber, so I just used M10 x 75mm hex drive flanged coach screws. Used an impact driver to drive them in.

Mine was outside in a high wind load area, plus a massive drop in areas. Face mounted on timber structure.

Depends how you do it. The first study (paid for by the tax payer) was with Peterhead power station. The whole flue gas was captured. It was compressed and catalytic broken down, to hydrogen and few other products, the waste product re-compressed and injected subsea offshore.

I did similar but at 300mm centres, just didn't pipe under internal walls, kitchen units or beds and only did 100mm concrete.

Why not make something self supporting and not touch the walls at all, something like this, but make it nice and solid

The trouble with that, is the long delay in room temp dropping and floor warming enough to recover room temperature - especially on a low temp thick screed system. But it is strange that a self learning linear actuator doesn't exist for UFH. Self balancing exist, but they don't do what you describe, they just change flow rate to maintain dT, not room temperature.

I have an MVHR in a hall cupboard, but with a bedroom either side. My walls are wooden stud walls. The mounting face for the MVHR, has a double layer of 18mm ply. The stud walls are filled with Rockwool Flexi and 12.5mm plasterboard elsewhere. No vibration and zero noise. I did not use anti vibration mounts.

Do you have them? What sort of time delay do you get if switching by motion sensor?

I bought mine from here https://www.made2measure.co.uk/glass-balustrades/?mh_keyword=balcony glazing system&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=12052583245&gbraid=0AAAAADv1etNOPVsB6l6fBCLWEMa72dGOx&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnJHMBhDAARIsABr7b844WI-m1FTO32K-Blto5enxEUMAp2YkU1fodvh8LLpF7khwS1hhwYMaAhGSEALw_wcB Go to the useful information section, all the design certification is there, with approved mounting schemes for the various products etc. Just bought the appropriate hardware, downloaded the certificate and structural engineer signed it all off. Zero thought, fully approved, simple.

We just did 15mm to manifold and then 15mm to each wet room - 22mm bonkers - plumber not really understanding anything.

But does generate on a dull wet day like we have today, unlike solar. Big battery, PV and a diesel generator with waste heat recovery straight into a thick screed floor - job done