JohnMo

They may/will ask for a commissioning certificate - so be prepared

Trouble is it wouldn't provide ventilation anywhere in the house except the room it's installed within. Basically it will supply and extract equal amounts. Leaky house and MVHR is a waste of time and money. Very leaky house (open fire places etc) doesn't really need additional ventilation. MEV and dMEV are for the middle ground leaky houses, not enough leaks to give adequate ventilation, so give slow steady background ventilation, add then the system becomes very efficient, so no-one home in the day the system almost shutdown, and can actually on average, performance just about as well as MVHR.

dMEV and MEV use the principle of cross ventilation, if you do not provide either trickle or other vents in dry rooms, you may as well not bother, because it does not work, many studies have shown this. For most efficient operating you need moisture activated vents or auto vents, also limit householder intervention or closing off vents. Both of these can close down when that room doesn't need ventilation - such as a bedroom in the day or living room over night.

There's your best but of advice.

If you read building regs for a workshop or garage the ventilation required is huge. Because it assumes you will be driving a vehicle in there and it needs to get rid of fumes etc. But moving on You are mixing two different reasons for ventilation and stopping ventilation. Insulation and building fabric - you are trying to keep moisture away from the building fabric, the moisture as it passes from inside to outside can condense back to water within the building structure and then over time lead to failure of the building structure. Ventilation, is there to keep humidity and co2 at below a threshold where is not good for human health or the building. Ventilation is a necessary eval, you heat the air and bring in cold - the more you seal the more you have to replace with mechanical means. Old building leaked like sieves so didn't need additional ventilation, air was lost at a huge rate you just didn't notice it.

Remember to factor in with your deliberations, no MCS cert, you are unlikely to get any export payments. I chose to forego them, and export very little. City Plumbing us also very cheap. 410W panels £47 plus vat.

Just make provision or install panel heaters, with time and thermostat control, cost to run isn't a factor if you have no interest in switching them on.

£16k is a lot of money. £16,000 / 700 is 23 years payback on exports If you accept all 4500 kWh and £700 export is generated. Not sure what you currently pay for your 4500kWh at 20p that's £900. 16000/(900+700) is 10 years. If you are managing to get your average down to 15p with your tariff it's £675 a year, and still about 10 years.

Why not, you have all the tools. Your coldest temperature, and the heat loss at that temperature, you told us earlier 2.5kW @ -10. If that temperature over 24 hrs that's 2.5x24 and is 60kWh of heat required.

Wire brush the old paint off, should come off easily. Then paint in high zinc content paint, often sold a cold galvanising. Not cheap but will last another few decades without being touch again.

Exactly? Maybe he going to insulate it with a magic substance, that means paper thin walls, total silence, and no heating required. And costs pennies to build. That would be unique.

I thought I was getting OCD doing once a day - so stopped now do it twice a month. But saying the above, now have a heat pump monitor system coming with segregated CH and DHW. Every statistic ever needed - I think

I started with gas boiler and some heat meters came up cheap on here. So installed and played with flow rates Andy temps to get house comfortable (it got down to -9) it also confirmed my heat loss calcs were pretty much as predicted.

Heat pump you really should be running steady state, not on off like a boiler. I take the following for DHW allowance. 2.5kW heat demand x 24 hrs is 60kWh. So now you need to take time out for DHW, so allow 2 hrs (2x heating sessions). So now you need to produce 60kWh in 22 hrs. 60 / 22 so 2.7kW. So you are looking at a 4kW heat pump, which is about as small as you get. -10 is excessive for Suffolk, but in your case it's going to make much difference, you will still have an oversized heat pump. So you need a single zone to enable it to cope with limited cycling.

What you are showing is a complete rip off, buts not from City Plumbing heat pump builder. For one they are just a wholesaler, so would not be doing a survey or taking your old stuff and recycling nor doing install. I plugged in the parts on your quote and including all the secondary circuit and buffer etc, which can all be deleted, it came out at £3700 plus vat. Only bits to add were pipe and insulation.

Start with the basics, so you understand where the calcs come from. https://www.open.edu/openlearn/nature-environment/energy-buildings/content-section-2.4.1

Would agree. But there are only a few manufacturers and a lot of re-badging going on and a commercial premium, buy lots big discounts on RRP, but buy a couple get charged full wack.

This is well dependent and has to be designed based on water properties from analysis. Leave this to the professionals. No other pumps, no storage tanks. Pump directly connected to 100L accumulator via 25mm pipe (cylinder with a pressurised diagram same as an expansion vessel but bigger). The outlet water goes through filters (mine is a backwash filter to remove debris and convert iron, 10 and 5 micron filters and UV filter), then to a normal stopcock in the house.

Not sure that is really true for fan coils, they have been about very little changed for decades. But the context has moved, were really only ever used in commercial buildings, not homes. The thing that has changed is heat pumps are being installed, people realise they can cool as well as heat. The fan coil in a domestic setting is the thing starting to mature. But a long a long way go yet.

Remote control functions are either open or closed zero volt contacts. One set of contacts are for heat or cool, the other set for heat or cool off. Remote On/off is via a volt free thermostat, this inhibits heating or cooling when it's an open contact see ID3 below Summer winter Open contact or closed contact selects either heat or cool. See ID2 below. Terminal block

You really should state you want Weather Compensation also. Then either dump most the TRVs and run single zone. Then you set the pump flow to match the need of all the radiators. You should get a 25% reduction in gas consumption, because most the time the boiler is in condensing mode. You also no longer need bypass valve.

I doubt you will need 32mm, we are about 25m from pump head (40L Min pump) to accumulator and filters then 6m to house (another 70m to garage) all in 25mm loads of flow. 1200L storage, I just have a 100L accumulator. This has a pressure switch which controls the down hole pump. No additional pumps required. Cold water may benefit from insulation to stop drips from condensation, thin stuff will do. Hot only if you run a secondary return loop, then do that as thick as possible. Just use Cimaflex (grey stuff) cheap and readily available. Our feels and functions just like normal main supply. Have set the pressure to 2.5 bar, zero issues at all the pump can do 40L/min also Think about what you will do in a power cut? Your water is also off. We got a generator, we can run the house with in reason and got a 7.9kW Hyundai generator.

Which bit?

Yes normal switch, just a 2 core cable from switch to ASHP for mine. Many will do it via the controller.

Well after writing the above, I moved the thermostat to control remote on and off, (set 0.1 hysterisis to stop overshoot if flow temp needs to be controlled) and added a switch to move between heating and cooling.