JohnMo

No! This thermal bridge would remain, your aercrete blocks get rid of this.

So 4. does not contribute as not in an unvented cavity. If in a service void it would. 7. Reflective layer faces outwards, so again doesn't help keep heat in, but will help keep it out. So you end up with slightly different inward and outward U values. Manufacturer instructions.

Makes sense now.

Why are they noisy - what's noisy in yours?

@JamesPa is quoting So half on the dB scale so magnitudes less noise

The key word here! Lot of nonsense in the building world, you have to filter out what appropriate and useful for you.

Currently sat on our hill, main road about 800m away, with road and wind noise sound meter records 60dB to 88dB (conversation to heavy traffic noise levels). Moving down the hill to where the heat pump is, it's 40 to 60 quiet library to conversation noise levels), with heat pump off. We are classed a rural. So they want a heat pump half background, someone talking next door should be reported immediately - you will end up deaf. What nonsense.

Same calculation I did when I did mine.

An unvented void without reflection is around 0.14 R value, without the reflective your U value moves from 0.13 to 0.14. But is also directional, so is reflecting heat from outside, so in summer useful (?), not sure about any real use in winter as it cannot reflect heat back in to the house because of it's position. Take the marketing blurb with a pinch of salt.

Sorry slight redraw, shown in blue

Marketing?

If that was the case you just hold your hands up and say I will switch off the cooling, not sure you would move and also declare you were in dispute with the neighbours. But the complaint could have been about equally about heating DHW water, as that in reality is all they would ever hear. Not many people know enough about heat pumps, let alone understand some can actually cool as well as by magic make heat.

First remark, is you are obviously young and like stairs and steps, so won't be your "forever home" as many like to say, without a few changes. I would consider making it a little more by wheelchair friendly, you never know what the future holds. Slopes outside instead of steps. Maybe somewhere on the ground floor for a bedroom. Lots of wasted space with stairs also, something to think about. Plant room and ground floor WC, I would possibly shift thing about there, to make the plant room part of the utility, then everything for the heat pump is just through the wall. Your planned position for heat pump may preclude a propane filled one due to the door being pretty close. Assuming your plant room will house UVC, MVHR, hot and cold water manifolds, UFH manifold for ground floor, and even lower ground floor and not much else. Upper floor heating I would just do fan coil in bedroom and study (run same temp as UFH) and electric UFH towel rad in ensuite.

Yes, but make a thick as practical especially if you have UFH. Start at top of screed and down 2 levels. DPC to keep aerated blocks dry

I would doubt they would even realise, they make so little noise doing cooling, especially if you are flowing 14 to 16 degs Mine just runs at the lowest it can modulate, can't it hear it from about a metre away.

Hi, need more details - what are you insulating - roof, walls or floor. What is the construction method of the house? Is the roof a normal loft of room in roof? What is the floor, ground bearing or with a void below?

Start by looking at continuity insulation. First place its missing on the edge of the screed. So enhancement is required there, add insulation width equal to being flush with the inner edge of the skirting Second your inner wall of blocks is directly connected to ground, so you need a thermal break there. Two rows of aerated blocks will be fine. Move dpm so the aerated blocks are inside and stay dry. Enhancement two adds nothing to the party already being done by aerated blocks Enhancement three brings nothing additional to the party there is no thermal bridge there.

Is at the end of the system, could the radiators be balanced, so the flow is be gobbled up by the rest of the system. Enough flow to feel heat in the pipe but not enough to push through the radiator. Have you tried switching off a couple of other rads, to see if it improves things? That may tell you where you need to make changes

What I found when I started looking is the UPS function on most inverters is pretty useless, they can only output a very small kW so only likely to support a few lights not much. I went AC coupled because it would take over fully (6kW) and I can do just about whatever I want while I have battery power. Borehole pump, sewage system, MVHR, heat pump on, boil the kettle etc. When that runs out of power we also have a generator that can do the same.

Just to butt in once more - it was a condition of drilling - no water diviner no borehole. Don't know - don't care really. The man said, drill here, you will hit water at about 16-20m ignore not enough water going to that site, drill to 32m. Report from drilling company Drilled new borehole to 34m Used 27m steel casing. First strike at 20m. Second strike at 29m. Estimated flow at time of drilling 900 gallons per hour.

Whatever, I will bow out, leave to it

Where are the valves located on the radiator?

Any AC coupled battery would do the job they don't care how AC is made

Because it's been drilled and has been product water for the last 4 years. He also said all the feed sources for the well. So should be able to follow your pipes etc to get to the borehole.

So in reality you need a heat pump that do 6kW at your design temp, this will allow two hours for DHW, (2x 1 HR slots) while also supplying all your heating demand