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JohnMo

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Everything posted by JohnMo

  1. JohnMo
    Pozi rafters and anything manually fitted for installation would be a utter pain. To get it done well expensive and not likely to happen. Blown in gets everywhere (when done well - will slump over time, when not done well). We did spray foam, really quick hardly any mess, vapour stop membrane below, breather membrane above. Not the same job as a cowboy installer spraying under a vapour stop old membrane in a cold roof.
  2. JohnMo
    We have 100mm concrete above insulation and pipes are stapled to insulation. Slow response (but that is mostly down to 300mm pipe spacing), but that's fine. It gives a steady consistent house temperature. You can charge floor on cheap rate, with excess PV energy via heat pump, no issues. You use it like a big storage heater. You can do straight Weather compensation. Zones and setback times are a bit of waste of time, so keep it simple. We have a sunny 10 Deg day, with 2 degs expected overnight. Plenty of excess PV today, floor charged up for free, heating done until tomorrow. No house over heating.
  3. JohnMo
    I wouldn't bother with the faff. And agro if it all doesn't go to plan, and you get a wet ceiling. If doing the roof light and PV, keep the two apart, by making the PV array smaller or roof light smaller. Or find a new home for the SVP and do the engineered solution from GSE/Velux.
  4. JohnMo
    The GSE trays have flashing at the side and top and it's all interconnected to stop water getting where it shouldn't be. While maintaining air movement. Omit the side flashing and your own thing at your risk is what GSE would say. Perhaps put one panel less on the roof to get space to do things correctly? move SVP, then go velux? Dump the roof light?
  5. JohnMo
    Or just go for an already engineered solution. VELUX Solar Integrator ODL The VELUX Solar Integrator ODL is a flashing solution designed especially for solar panels. The solution enables a seamless installation of VELUX roof windows with a GSE IN-ROOF system. The low-profile flashing design ensures.... Your plan misses out the side flashing which stops water ingress under side of GSE trays, from top or by wind driven from underneath. Any flashing would need to tie everything together to stop leaks.
  6. JohnMo
    Just fix as if it's wood, any adhesive treat as eps. Gorilla glue works well. Long screws and rawlplugs also
  7. JohnMo
    Geography lesson United Kingdom, made up of England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. UK I take it you mean England? No you can't. But as I said the roof build up is vague at best, at the wood fibre layer, there seems to be 3 options (OSB, wood fibre or sarking boards), which is pretty poor, there should be no options, it should state what is expected.
  8. JohnMo
    The plan is vague stating slate or concrete tiles. But they both have a different roof build up. Concrete Tiles need the battens and counter battens on sarking boards, natural slate on the other hand, just needs the breather membrane on sarking boards and then the slates directly attached to sarking boards.
  9. JohnMo
    Our pipes were below everything (at hardcore level, so about 450mm below FFL. We took 110mm pipe to the shower tray and then stopped screed / concrete with additional insulation, to act a mould. Once I was ready the insulation was removed, to leave a void to work with. The drainage fully completed for the shower tray, I back filled the space with concrete, then did flush fit shower tray.
  10. JohnMo
    You can get blown mineral wool also, so may be another option
  11. JohnMo
    Should be free, they f*cked up and did it incorrectly - if not just with hold £xxxx from final bill, and issue them a bill if you fix it
  12. JohnMo
    Wouldn't the simple answer be to get builder, to add packers to the existing joists to bring up to level needed? Your solution looks complex and maybe needlessly so, and maybe more costly than it needs to be. The above assumes the joists are per drawing spec.
  13. JohnMo
    Mine is a slightly different answer to the above. You really need to map where your air comes and goes. What directions does it travel. We did supply, so we slightly over ventilate the main bedroom, air then moves to ensuite and excess air goes under door and down a corridor to make sure hall is ventilated also. It all about balance and getting best ventilation for buck. One solution doesn't suit all. But saying above - is the dressing room a wet room? no, so you do supply, not extract.
  14. JohnMo
    But what does your structural engineer say - he will have a view based on bond strength and wind loads etc.
  15. JohnMo
    Just go double with krypton gas, instead of argon. Look the same as argon, should be getting a Uw of 1.1 with good frame design.
  16. JohnMo
    What ever you do make sure boxes are ticked Permitted development doesn't apply, so you need planning AND listed approval - they are different and the two departments do not/ may not generally communicate with each other. I once assumed they did and got bitten.
  17. JohnMo
    No thanks, I'll stick with converting my excess PV electricity into either heat or cold for the house. Way better value, than anything a commercial project could offer.
  18. JohnMo
    Not sure they are correct, You can do de-superheat on the chillers to get continuous high temp heat source. A heat pump on chilling mode, is blowing heat out the condenser fan (heat taken out of the cold space). Pretty sure that heat could be used, even another heat pump, in front taking some warmed air, would get a decent CoP all year round.
  19. JohnMo
    Slightly issue - you can have all the capacity you want, but if industry and general public aren't using all that capacity available, you will still get curtailment at the generation end. You can put in high voltage DC interlinks to move the renewable energy further away and expand the market. You don't need to understand any thermodynamics for that. That is then reflected in the price you sell it for. And there is a big market for it. Again no need to understand thermodynamics, it just a marketable product for a given price.
  20. JohnMo
    That doesn't help flow, it just adds system volume. One zone open equals one zones flow rate. You could add a bypass and big volumiser, so you can run one zone, but why?
  21. JohnMo
    Also sorry for hijack That arguement is sound BUT, if the wind turbine or whole wind farm is being physically switched off and the wind farm being paid to do so (as happens quite regularly), then renewable to hydrogen makes perfect sense. It's excess electricity being stored instead of having been switched off. Hydro storage is part of that mix also. The BEV makes sense also, but if wind power is being switched off even when the BEV is charging, hydro storage is being pump up the hill, hydrogen makes sense.
  22. JohnMo
    Sorry that is just nonsense. Don't think any understanding of thermodynamics is required to get a coherent energy policies. Certainly don't think a working knowledge of Enthalpy is a prerequisite, for any politician or even their advisor.
  23. JohnMo
    I used really good industrial scissors. Made easy work of it. Or you could use a craft knife with plenty of blades.
  24. JohnMo
    Where is the water going, how does it maintain min flow requirements - without a buffer? My max loop flow is around 2 L/min - lounge has two loops so around 4 L/min, my heat pump needs about 16 L/min so it doesn't trip on low flow.
  25. JohnMo
    Yep, we still get best part of zero at night. Heating could go off, every few days, but it's free from excess PV, so why bother switching it off. Mine generally is heating, then cooling until September. Not much middle ground.
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