James94

Thanks for all the advice, I’m not going to try and fix this issue as I think it a bit beyond my talents. i have spoke to Bosch and they have a couple of options I can choose from and I think I’m going to take out there insurance scheme. regards. James

Thanks for the reply, I have seen this but also seen that someone with that same error changed the thermostat but never solved it. I don’t want to go about wasting money replacing bits and still having the fault, could I do some tests to see which part is faulty? regards. James

Just wondering on the off chance has anyone ever come across this and possibly fixed the issue. my parents 5 year old oven had come up with this error code. as title says it’s a Bosch series 8 model numberHBG674BS1B/17 its to do with the temperature as it’s over heating. there are a few bits online but nothing much. Regard. James

@Bozza not sure if I’m getting what you mean, I have the lights already and they are fixed led chips so can’t use different bulbs. @Temp i think I’m going to look at making a matching dummy dimmer switch smart that work with the app. I’m not sure what and if it’s possible yet but going to research Shelly and zigbee, one might work. Thanks for your advice. Regards. James

@Bozza Thanks for the replies, I already have the light and had them for a few months now so not be able to return so won’t be able to have dusk till dawn setting and I do think I’d prefer to be able to have control over them possibly wirelessly. @Temp I had to Google jury rig s wasn’t familiar with the term. is it possible to add quintec or something similar to normal switches or do you have to use there dedicated switches as I’ve got dimmers and dummy dimmers throughout the house? I also have my blinds and some led ceiling strip lights controlled by an app on my phone Tuya app, would it be possible to use this to control lighting? I also like the idea of the PIR sensor,I could possibly use this on my drive wall lights. Could the PIR fit to normal wall lights as I have them too? Regards. James

Hi all, Im going to install some fence lights around garden about 90m in length so about 15 leds and a single light to up light a birch tree. Only thing is we never really allowed for live feed and switching. Got power in garage and feed cables will run into there but not sure of the best way to control them, I have seen the quinetic switches and also looked at this box, not sure how it works I’ll have a read up. can anyone recommend the best way. Regards. James

At the moment we have pumped it out to the site toilet which is at the front of the property which is connected to the in-laws main sewer. I know this won’t be there for ever and pipes will go but there is a drain just before the main road which both of our waste leave via, I was maybe thinking this but it’s a long way to go. question is 110mm or 300mm sump, would it make much difference? Regards. Scezy

Thanks for all the advice, It maybe a little drastic but I fear a few spells of heavy rain will flood the garden so I’ve chosen to install another soak away. But before I complete it is it worth incorporating some sort of access point to enable pumping water away as I’m worried it won’t soak away fast enough under prolonged rains. I was first of all thinking a 300mm drain and a puddle pump or just a 110mm pipe connected to crates and hose in to pump away, do you have any thoughts? Here is a pick after 1day of heavy rain. Regards. Scezy

Looking for some advice, prior to starting turfing it lashed it down and one area is still boggy. We thought this was because it was a low spot, top soil wasn’t up to correct height(hadn’t finished levelling in that part) before the rain hit .Its improved slightly but not enough to turf on and I’m worried even if we could have turfed it this is going to cause further problems down the line, will that area ever be solid or just turn to mush? The ground is clay, we had 2x2m2 soakaways put in, one each side of garden. Just to help with attenuation in downpours. Couple of pics highlight the area.

@Post and beam When we did ours we put it in a flexible duct cut out enough pir so it finished level with top of pir and then UFH on top, hope this helps. Scezy

I used sandtoft rivius antique slate, which is a clay tile. Very pleased with them

@gaz_moose Thanks for your reply, I’m aware about mixing plastic pipes and fittings but I’m not sure how you decide what radiator push fit connections will fit best to JG pipe or maybe it doesn’t matter? I think it’s flow on the left side and return on the right, not sure if pipes will rotate. Does it Make any difference Which way the water flows through the radiator? Also does it make any difference what type of trv valve I go for, it will be connected to a Wunda smart trv head? Regards. James

@Jenki The piping used is jg it has some movement but not sure how much pressure it’s going to be applying to the fittings. Are all the push fit connections equal in quality and fit plastic the same? I don’t mind paying a little extra for piece of mind. Thanks for the idea of swapping the pipes over as this might release some pressure on the bends, I’ll see how it looks. Also can’t seem to find any valves without the trv, don’t need them as I have some wunda smart trvs, can you recommend somewhere that sell good quality valves? Regards. James

Just about to start hanging 5 radiators, done abit of research and noticed these manthorpe radiator guides are not ideal when coming upwards from first floor. Don’t think it’s going to be possible to bend the flow and return to the level at which we need them. Would it be okay to put a 90deg elbow on the flow and return to get us down to the valve height? Looking at these valves, is the push fit compatible with all 10mm pipe? I’ve already purchased smart trvs so ideally need to find this without trv. james

@Iceverge @JohnMo, thanks for the advice. just worried that with a 2 port manifold for upstairs bathrooms and rads for 4 bedrooms it will short cycle/ be inefficient and cost a fortune to run. I’d like to settle into the house and see how the heating system works for us, before making any decisions but don’t want to wait too long and miss out on any vat. would you have downstairs UFH, upstairs UFH, rads all on the buffer? I will ask the plumber if he has allowed for weather compensation. james

@JohnMoWell almost a year has passed and our moving in date will soon be approaching, not sure if our “gas engineer” fully understands the concept of buffer tanks and short cycling. He’s first fixed without a buffer tank and I’m hoping it won’t be too much work now to integrate one. Id like the option to be able to control individual zones on downstairs UFH, I’ve already noticed some of the north facing rooms are noticeably cooler. Here’s a photo showing what we currently have. How difficult will it be to add a buffer to this system? to stop short cycling and maybe increase efficiency. I will speak with our plumber once I have an idea of what is required. James

That’s all we used, wood screws and Timco washers off Amazon. Make sure they are sunk in enough as we had to remove vcl tape and sink them deeper as dry liners said their screws will pop on their plaster boards. Regared. James

I will make sure I will take all safety precautions prior to any work and thanks for the advice. Regards. James

Thanks for the time you’ve all taken and there is some excellent advice. When I do get back there I’ll trace some of the wiring and do some testing, check out that fused spur too. This system has been working for years and I’m hoping it’s just the programmer but could be anything, is there anyway to test it? I’ve been looking at some of the YouTube videos you’ve recommended and I’ll keep watching, some great advice and they do simplify it when the system is stripped down to each component. It would make things simple if all wiring centres were wired the same. Regards. James

@ProDave @TonyT As soon as I go back I’ll try isolating the wiring centre with that fused spur and see what goes off. I did try that test which you said,not sure if anything was wrong. I’ll have to look at the wires and try following some cables to see what goes where and to what.

Thanks, been looking at the photos and the cable entries and trying to follow wires it’s a little difficult to see exactly where they go but I’ll look next time I’m there. Regards. James

@TonyT Oh just got a picture of that could be it, I’m back at work now so when I get back there I’ll isolate it and see where it goes in wiring centre and test it. Regards. James

I’d like to thank you all for your time and great advice, I’ll let them know what’s been discussed. I’m sure they can carry on using it as they have been for a while longer.I might keep googling and watching videos to enable me to sort it myself, ill see how it goes. Regards. James

There are a few spurs but none that isolate that I can see. The one round the corner looks like it goes up to a plug that’s connected to the immersion heater which is turned off.

@ProDave I’ve followed what you have said but I couldn’t isolate controller as I don’t know where it switches off, no spurs anywhere and doesn’t turn of in consumer unit either. I went upstairs into loft and switched water valve on but it didn’t seem to do anything, not sure I I was supposed to hear owt at boiler. Then I did same with heating valve and boiler fired up and a pump kicked in next to valve see pictures. was I supposed to of had different things happen. Regards. James