Gone West

I know very little about imprinted concrete but this came up in a search and may be of some help. Different colours, non slip etc. https://swiss-seal.co.uk/collections/imprinted-concrete

We're aiming to fit LVT Loose Lay. It's easier to lift a section if it gets damaged. https://www.bestatflooring.co.uk/luxury-vinyl-tiles/looselay-vinyl-flooring/

I looked into the possibility of using this type of system for my MVHR in 2010. It was the Rehau AWADUKT, hadn't heard of Canadian Well before. The details don't seem to have changed much in the last fifteen years. https://www.phstore.co.uk/PDF/Rehau/AWADUKT_thermo_urun_programi-data.pdf

Just how we did it, but then we also hate clutter.

In my case the EPS wasn't connected to the soil pipe and it was a fully tiled floor wet room, without a shower tray. The block of EPS was on top of the vertical end of the soil pipe in order to stop the concrete from being too close to the soil pipe to allow me to work on the soil pipe to get the correct level for the shower drain.

This is some info on grouping cables and other related stuff that might be of use. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.5.htm

The only similar thing that happened to me was a small plastic cap in the double check valve detached itself, and intermittently blocked the flow through the water softener. I just disconnected the larger pipe work and flushed it through. Is there a reducer of some kind before the cistern and tap that could be removed.

Some UPVC windows drain along the bottom edge of the window, so if it is that sort of window, then no, it shouldn't be sealed.

This is a copy of a post I put on here seven years ago which may be of interest. When I was researching into how to install MVHR around eight or nine years ago I made a list of rules I found relating to connecting the unit to the outside. I'm sure these are not exhaustive and nor are they prescriptive, but it's what I used to install mine. 1. The inlet and outlet grilles should be 3m apart to prevent cross contamination of air. 3m was the distance I found mentioned most often. 2. The inlet and outlet grilles should be high enough (2m) to prevent interference by animals or children. 3. The inlet and outlet grilles should be on the same wall so they are affected equally by the wind. 4. The free flow area of the grill including insect screen should be at least as great as the cross sectional area of the duct. 5. The duct should be smooth wall to reduce air flow restriction. 6. Any ducting bends should be large radius of curvature or two 45 degree bends to reduce air flow restriction. 7. The ducting should slope downwards slightly to ensure any moisture drains to the outside.

They look good, as long as the rectangular area, minus the mesh area, is larger than the circular area, no problem. I did my build a good few years ago and there wasn't so much choice, so I made my own. It was ok for me because the vents were under the verandah and well protected.

Make sure the vent you choose has at least the same flow area that the pipe has. It's a bad idea to restrict in any way the air flow into the unit. The main restrictions can be 90 degree bends, which slow the air flow, and/or insect screens, which reduce the area.

This was back in 2009 and the planners were being awkward so I put in a lot of detail that I don't suppose they understood. What we ended up with, bore only a passing resemblance to the plan, and nobody ever checked it.

@HanleeHouse I had an insulated raft foundation and all the 110mm soil pipes had long radius bends with feet and came up through the insulation and were around 0.5m above concrete level. That is except for the downstairs wet room shower waste where the 110mm pipe finished around 150mm below concrete level and was surrounded by a large block of polystyrene which finished above the concrete level. This enabled me to remove the polystyrene after the concrete had set and adjust the pipe length for the sunken shower waste. All the pipes had AAVs which were hidden behind false walls as the upstairs rooms had vaulted ceilings. We had our own STP and didn't have a vent on the house but on the STP.

I had never seen a Willis heater until around sixteen years ago at a building exhibition. Then when I moved into my current house I found that the solar thermal panel was connected to the vented hot water tank via a Willis Solasyphon. It seems a clever external heat exchanger and I'm surprised it doesn't seem more popular for retrofits.

🤣🤣🤣 It's not about numbers, but comfort. If you feel most comfortable at 18C that's fine, if like me you feel most comfortable at 23C, that's also fine. What I'm not happy about is being told how comfortable I should feel. There are a lot of factors determining comfort, such as age, health etc.