Jonny

Hi everyone, I'm in the process of purchasing a barn with permission for conversion + extension (not class Q). The stone/cob barn is thought to be 150+ years old (to be checked) and is in quite a state, but ultimately needs to be saved and repaired as part of the permission. The challenge comes with the water main; initial south west water drawings indicate the 200mm main is around 4m from the barn wall. However, on further review and scanning, it appears the main is around 2m from the wall. This impacts the 3.5m build limit imposed by South West Water. I understand that this would not have been permitted for a new build this close to the water main, but where do we stand with converting a property in this proximity? It's probably a question for SWW/planners, but just reaching out to see if anyone had any prior experience/knowledge?

I’d be after a replacement

I just installed a stairbox staircase, straight run, quarter landing, winder, straight run. Took about 4 hours to install (no spindles or handrails yet -tbc) would have been quicker but the staircase was quite a tight fit in the space! Solid and no issues really whilst fitting

Some down pipe brackets are bendable to suit the distance to wall

https://www.devonlive.com/news/devon-news/historic-cranbrook-farm-become-housing-7758961 Here is an arson attack that has turned a grade 2 derelict farm into 12 houses. It says the crime remains unsolved 🧐

Depends what the plastering was like. If the boxes were full of skim, it would be difficult for a sparky not to damage.

I’ve just fitted an in frame kitchen from mayflower and had the same issues. The door sizes were 4mm smaller from the fixed in frame to the pull out in frame. The pull out bin door takes the inframe section with it. Rather than leaving it attached to the cabinet

This is done on purpose, the pull out doors need clearance on the worktops. Where as the in frame drawers/doors don’t need this same clearance. Once the worktop is on it won’t be so noticeable.

In practice, the boards are generally just laid wherever they fall. We’ve never had issues with movement on an unsupported end as long as glued well. Any squeaks/noises are generally down to not enough glue/nail missing joists. Having said that, most of the joists we work on are 400cc.

It probably needs a slurry primer to help the mortar grip.

Personally I’ve never had any problems with tile adhesive bonding over skim or straight onto board. Like you, I’ve never gone for anything too fancy/heavy! Having said that, marking out a shower area not to tile will save somewhere around 6m2 ok skim, and depending how your paying your skimmer, every little helps!

Just to add, anywhere you are tiling doesn’t require skim. It actually reduces the weight carrying capacity of the plasterboard.

I’d also recommend marsh industries. Been in a year so far with no problems! The only time a power cut might be a real issue is if you need a pumped outlet due to gradients etc.

Depends how much tolerance/flex there is in the steel. You don’t necessarily want the doors tight up to it

Pretty spot on advice there. Where abouts in the country is he?