Jonny

Hi all, Just thought that I would share a cautionary tale regarding structural warranties. Tldr: Structural warranty requested by mortgage providers for extension when selling house. In short, we are selling a semi detached property and have had real difficulty with mortgage providers and the requirement for a structural warranty. In our ownership, the property has been fully refurbished both in and out, with new plumbing/electrics t/o. The property was mortgageable so when purchased so very livable. 3 years ago we added a two storey side and rear extension which basically wrapped around 2 of 3 side of the property and added around 1/3 floor space. This had full architect design/SE input and building control sign off throughout. As far as I was aware that was all that was needed. Unfortunately this hasn’t been the case, and a structural warranty is required as they deem the work to be a significant alteration. They will not accept a (very expensive) retrospective warranty, PCC or indemnity insurance. This has effectively paused the current sale until the buyer can find another mortgage provider! I just thought it was worth sharing in case anyone was planning a ‘significant’ alteration!

Here is another option. They make custom panels to suit the roof size. And there’s pictures of their edge to edge system https://gb-sol.co.uk/products/infinity/

Hi. I’m starting to look through the details of a barn conversion that hopefully we will be completing on over the next couple of months all being well with planning permission. The existing barn will be demolished and a timber frame with external block skin will be put in place. We would like to keep the feel of the existing lime render and stone plinth barn. We will be aiming to use as much as the stone as possible to complete the plinth and then there will be standard cement block over the top of this. Initial thoughts where that we would require lime render over the top, however on speaking to a local structural engineer (he has completed his dissertation on the detrimental effects of sand cement render on historic buildings)he suggested that we might be able to work sand and cement to make it look like lime render. I’m a little sceptical about this and it is not something I’ve heard of before, but I’m reaching out to you guys to see where you’ve heard or seen this in practice. For context we currently live in a modern block house with sand and cement render but unfortunately it hasn’t been done very well and picks up every single dip in many lighting conditions. I love the rustic look, softness and unevenness of lime render so I don’t want it to just look like a badly completed sand and cement render any advice or shall I just continue with the lime render as originally planned?

Have you come across this thread at all? This describes the ridge detail. I'm also interested in this for a future build too.

Hi everyone, I'm in the process of purchasing a barn with permission for conversion + extension (not class Q). The stone/cob barn is thought to be 150+ years old (to be checked) and is in quite a state, but ultimately needs to be saved and repaired as part of the permission. The challenge comes with the water main; initial south west water drawings indicate the 200mm main is around 4m from the barn wall. However, on further review and scanning, it appears the main is around 2m from the wall. This impacts the 3.5m build limit imposed by South West Water. I understand that this would not have been permitted for a new build this close to the water main, but where do we stand with converting a property in this proximity? It's probably a question for SWW/planners, but just reaching out to see if anyone had any prior experience/knowledge?

I’d be after a replacement

I just installed a stairbox staircase, straight run, quarter landing, winder, straight run. Took about 4 hours to install (no spindles or handrails yet -tbc) would have been quicker but the staircase was quite a tight fit in the space! Solid and no issues really whilst fitting

Some down pipe brackets are bendable to suit the distance to wall

https://www.devonlive.com/news/devon-news/historic-cranbrook-farm-become-housing-7758961 Here is an arson attack that has turned a grade 2 derelict farm into 12 houses. It says the crime remains unsolved 🧐

Depends what the plastering was like. If the boxes were full of skim, it would be difficult for a sparky not to damage.

I’ve just fitted an in frame kitchen from mayflower and had the same issues. The door sizes were 4mm smaller from the fixed in frame to the pull out in frame. The pull out bin door takes the inframe section with it. Rather than leaving it attached to the cabinet

This is done on purpose, the pull out doors need clearance on the worktops. Where as the in frame drawers/doors don’t need this same clearance. Once the worktop is on it won’t be so noticeable.

In practice, the boards are generally just laid wherever they fall. We’ve never had issues with movement on an unsupported end as long as glued well. Any squeaks/noises are generally down to not enough glue/nail missing joists. Having said that, most of the joists we work on are 400cc.

It probably needs a slurry primer to help the mortar grip.

Personally I’ve never had any problems with tile adhesive bonding over skim or straight onto board. Like you, I’ve never gone for anything too fancy/heavy! Having said that, marking out a shower area not to tile will save somewhere around 6m2 ok skim, and depending how your paying your skimmer, every little helps!