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Everything posted by Pocster
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Oh Christ ! What and have the planning enforcement guy out !!!
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https://www.screwfix.com/p/sadolin-extra-durable-woodstain-semi-gloss-jacobean-walnut-2-5ltr/21825?tc=GT1&ds_kid=92700025679360659&ds_rl=1249484&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg9P0iYbY2wIV7hXTCh0yEAUiEAQYASABEgIN9vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CM-J5I2G2NsCFcETGwod1gUMVw jacobean walnut ????? No idea what ‘colour’ that is !!!
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Might of been stained ! i don’t know what colour ‘natural’ iroko is ! So some sadolin stain ( near as I can match ) to stain - then a clear varnish ??
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Hey all My gates have faded somewhat I think they are made of Iroko (????) You can just make out the remains of the deep rich colour they once were . Any recommendations for a varnish that will bring the natural colour back out ?? cheers
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Pocster replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Euphemism??? -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Pocster replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Shouldn’t the speakers be on hydraulic arms also ? . So they can be lowered and cleaned like the shower head ... -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Pocster replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Thingy won’t fit over thingy - amateurs error ? -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Pocster replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Ah yes ; stupid me ! -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Pocster replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Looks good But out of interest why not just cut a rectangle for the mixer then fill ? -
Exactly! So mine will be like the first diagram. We are going with the 80mm pavers. The skylight 'lip' (i.e. bit that overhangs the upstand) is 40mm. So I will have a good 40mm clearance from 'slab' . Pavers sat flush with skylights but slab/mortar bed some 80mm lower than finish level and therefore some 40mm lower than edge of skylight. I really must learn to draw!!!!
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They will be mounted on a 2 degree slant for run off . Fully bonded units . As I said think of a shoe box lid over its box that’s how they sit on my upstands.
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Skylight lip is about 40mm pavers 50 - 80mm so pavers mortar bed below skylight . skylight frame itself is like shoe box lid
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I think you’ve got it right . A poor drawing to explain . Remember you can park on this so can’t have a ‘suspended ‘ floor for the skylights . Whats the issue with them ? I thought we were after a solid non permeable concrete floor ...
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The skylight upstands are not the correct height ! The glazing was another issue !!!!!! So ! I tried to be clever and had some firrings made ( didn’t know they were called that ) . I’ll fix these on top the openings and as they are deliberately longer than required can adjust to suit the glazing ; I.e can make flush with final floor
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The thing is even I can’t remember what’s gone in it ! ? When *just* 100mm concrete - never had a leak apart from open sky lights ( of course ) and where the concrete pour shrunk back from the steels - so hairline cracks . Been like that for years ? So reality suggests it is waterproof as in water above ground runs outside the build . But belts and braces are preferred .... I
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Hey skylights are just walk on yeah that photo does make it look like the fall is towards the house - it’s actually the slightest fall the other way ! The wall ( this was another issue ) actually sits on the external insulation of the below structure .Has a special bracket fixed to the blockwork . So in theory water running down the stone work would run outside the below structure . I built the wall - no dpc ( oops ) . No neighbour on the other side ; it’s a lane The below ground structure blockwork also has plastic sheeting over it ( though of course that could tear and I’d not know ) . Land drain at the base of that Internally below ground will have newton dimpled membrane on the walls and will lap back over part of the ceiling . Some photos to perhaps make clearer
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Cheers ! So as I’ve got to add edpm ontop edpm that’s on random stone - roller no good ! I will have to edpm from the floor as it’s flat . Then ‘infill’ with that horrible never setting gunk !! ?
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Mega ! Will waste a tube of ct1 for peace of mind ! On the slots !!! Will ‘flatten’ stone faces at ‘finish level ‘ to make flashing sit as flush as possible to wall . Flashing will be visible - but it is just a black metal strip ! Chipping can’t go into edpm because 75mm of concrete is on top . But no sand , mot1 - concrete all the way !! your help is + 1001 ?
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Nope. No drainage. Only drainage it to deal with surface run off. Got to make those edges SUPER tight ! ?
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"3) How do you stick EDPM to EDPM?. I'm fairly sure the guys just stuck primer on both parts ; let it go tack then rollered them. But videos seem to suggest otherwise. Advice welcome here!" Right!, splice tape. There are 2 points at which they have joined on the flat bit. 99% they didn't use splice tape. They just stuck a piece over ( will get a photo tomorrow) . So I will cut a square and 'splice' a proper section on top for peace of mind! Then splice tape along base of wall and EDPM up!
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Right! Couldn't get hold of my architect ( unsurprisingly ) but did the SE and asked him. he admitted not his field, but that the EDPM should lap up further and be above the finished paving and then some flashing. He agreed that no matter what I did *some* water would get in if only via the pavers. He said water between the EDPM and concrete was not a concern. He also confirmed water penetration through the concrete wouldn't happen ( I know this to be true as the initial roof is 100mm thick been exposed to everything for years and no water has ever come 'through' it ). So it is all about the edges!. SO!. 1) Would it be ok to fill in my angle grinded slots with CT1? ; no way I can get cement in them. 2) Will then 'lap' EDPM over his bodge/mess (delete as applicable) right up the wall past the final floor finish 3) How do you stick EDPM to EDPM?. I'm fairly sure the guys just stuck primer on both parts ; let it go tack then rollered them. But videos seem to suggest otherwise. Advice welcome here! 4) SE also suggested bedding the pavers in mortar!! so no movement and even less chance of water getting through (FFS! that's a load of work compared to the standard method) - still wacker plate can stay in the garage ? @cpd "God it’s painful to see how things are done by supposed professionals" . Tell me about it!. I deliberately didn't do this as I've never done it before and it's a one off i.e. I'm never going to rubber a roof again. Look what happens! - might aswell done it myself; hard to imagine I'd make a worse job of it. Any advice on any points really welcome!
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Right ! @cpd i’m Going with you ! so ! ordered more edpm - will lap a piece over existing edges ( and bond of course ) Will take it right up the wall past floor finish THEN will flash it !! Say YES !
