Pocster

Hey all, Been looking into this. I do like : https://www.sunsquare.co.uk/skylights-and-rooflights/upstand/ But the up stands are £200!!! . They are just 4 bits of wood (maybe insulated I guess). Surely no one pays that much for them?. Some suppliers don't supply the upstand - should I just make my own?. What's everyone else done with sky lights/walk on glass?? Cheers

He hasn't provided a lot! The 'roof' can be driven on. As I said can't get 100mm (let alone architects required 120mm); so will have to do some internally on ceiling. No kerbs - the area is 'bound' on 3 sides so was just going to shutter the 1 open side. ( 1 side build, 1 side wall , 1 side kerbs for entrance but not above build) cheers

I’ve also found out the upstands are only around 150mm . So I assume I have to put concrete blocks around the sky light openings to gain height . EDPM up them . Add the upstand later - so glass is flush with finished floor and add an EDPM layer around the upstand overlapping the concrete blocks EDPM ???

Sorry if I confused you. My current concrete slab is level with 4 sky light holes in it. My build is 38cm above this and at the plot entrance 18cm so I need to generate a slope for that. So I *assume* (that word again) ; once the up stands are in and I've made my slope (sand + dry cement a good plan?) ; plus I know what my final floor finish will be I cut the in situ up stands to match the fall..... ??????????????? I measured the length of slope and at it's longest point it's 6m.

Thinking about it ..... make my upstands too high as I said so cut to suit . Create my slope with sand and dry cement . Get my slope then sprinkle with water to form my semi solid base before final finish ( architect has paving blocks ; but they will be too thick - what else can I do apart from patio type tiles ?? ) cheers

Ok . wont that look bad I.e 50 mm steps ?? I was wondering if I could install higher than I need up stands then once I know my final floor finish cut them in situ to suit ....

My wonderful architect has just supplied a drawing which he forgot to give me ! Needless to say that causes issues He wants 120mm insulation ; this of course isn’t possible with a 75mm screed . if I use 50mm can I insulate internally ( on the ceiling ) to claw back the u value ? . Would insulated plasterboard help ???

Distance is approx 4m will measure properly tomorrow . what do I do about the 4 walk on glass up stands ? Do I mount them at different heights to follow the fall ? I.e tilted ??

Right! : Architect's been out and yes there are issues! Started a separate thread as it's a different question The 'front' slab of my property conceals an underground portion of the house. So the 'plan' is (bottom to top) High compressive insulation i.e. expensive EDPM ; this has to be used as waterproofing and also I have 4 walk on sky lights; so has to waterproof around the up stands (haven't bought them yet!! $$$$$$) Cavity drain (Anco) type thing in front of build and at front of plot to deal with surface water Rebar + concrete pour on everything else The 'front' of the build i.e. the entrance current sits at 38cm from the existing slab (50mm for insulation ; 75mm for screed planned) The front of the slab i.e. where it meets the road is only 18cm So I need to create a gentle slope (Architect had babies telling me the entrance to the property needs to be level or no more than a 20mm step ) My question is where do I make this 'slope'. I *assume* (dangerous word) ; I do as planned and for the final finish (tile, blocks whatever) I make the slope then going from 380mm-50mm-75mm 255 (front of property) to the edge of plot 180mm-50mm-75mm = 55 At this point in time I have no idea what the final finish will be! Any advice welcome!

I also considered built in pv panels . spoke to Tesla and they said a uk release is at least 2 yrs away . i thought they’d be good estetically and save on roof tiles . But if one goes faulty you need to replace otherwise roof exposed ! . So you are reliant on them not failing and a panel of same size etc existing in the future . So ! ; tiled my roof and will fit pv on top of that . PV is a no brainer . Forget fit now . Battery storage is near to being worth it .....

Thanks! I did think of this but was *worried* if I couldn't push the guttering down or it sank too much! With either method I would still prefer waterproof concrete (though my architect thinks thats a waste of money) ; so not sure of the additional cost compared to a standard pour. On top of this I have to have an EDPM layer (as far as I can tell) because we have 4 walk on roof lights so the 'edge' around them needs to be water tight. I guess my architect assumes the EDPM will be enough and hence no need for water proof concrete!. If I did go for an in situ channel I think for peace of mind I'd paint it with water proof sealant or something.

Hey all! My 'flat' roof sits above a living area and the architect wants a drainage channel on it to keep water away from the above ground build. The problem he has is that any channel will not be a water tight fit around it i.e. poured concrete around it. I take his point but can't see an easy solution apart from trying to cast 'in situ' a drainage channel i.e. no joints. He means literally the mm gap (or less) between the channel edge and the poured concrete. I certainly can't find a drainage channel with a 'flange/lip' that allows poured concrete to go over it - so I guess I'm looking for something that doesn't exist and hence is wrong!!! My *current* solution is to embed a plastic pipe wrapped in polythene in the roof (held in position by rebar etc) . Then once the pour has cured pipe (in theory) should just pop out and I have a nice smooth no joints channel. This is a separate issue to my waterproofing! and walk on glass issue! Any suggestions appreciated!

Yeah I was more worried about render on the render board cladding - not sure if it will stain etc .

Yeah it’s render ! problem is render white , soffit , gutter etc black ....... trouble for sure !

Hey all whats the best masking tape for external use ? i want it to stick but not damage cladding , soffit when removed so sticky but not too sticky !!! cheers

Sure thing . Cost be the incentive to go diy . Tbh once setup very little seems to go wrong .

And that’s exactly what you use to control them via iPeng or indigo on a headless mac ?

I think things like Raspberry PI and similar must make Sonos/Bose etc. not sleep at night. The Sonos kit is nice; but still has issues streaming! - given that is ALL the company do it would be nice to work near 99% of the time. I think wiring speakers back to a central point is obviously the best route as you can change the 'source' at anytime. Raspberry PI zero with a zero amp hat on it back powered (not powered from pi) is more than good enough for a 'standard' room. Cost?; £50 ish or less. That's pretty amazing. For larger rooms (like the lounge) I have raspberry pi 3 with much meater AMP hat - easily sufficient unless I want to suffer deafness.....

Ok ao I’d have to claim back the stamp duty after the purchase .

What happens if you sell your home before buying your new home ? ( I.e a btl that isn’t going to be rented ) very confusing on the Hmrc website - which does suggest not entitled to a stamp duty refund .

Ace :-)

Cheers ! a couple of k back would be nice !

I guess I need to change the question ; so let’s pretend ... i buy a property with btl and higher stamp duty . cant rent it for various reasons decide to live in it eligible for stamp duty partial refund ? who does this ? Me I guess not my accountant??? cheers p.s if only life was simple :-)

Lol i don’t have one ; I sold it !

Bum it’s not a 2nd home though if I’m living in it now ....... ?