Pocster

Stretch away people ! my neighbours complained on “ dangerous structure “ ( lie ) , “ knocked down wrong wall “ ( only 2 walls both mine ) etc etc etc for years . So when through intent or accidentally it’s a bit wider , or higher then screw them ! . One of our neighbors put a fence up against a public highway ; it was 7ft tall. Regs are 6ft , they had an enforcement officer out . We got to *support* them twice , our current home and our new build . As soon as we are 60cm or so higher they object and we have enforcement guy round ! hypocrits !. So push for a bit more ! :-) admitedly underground we doubled - but hey neighbor- can’t complain about what you can’t see ??????

I’d double the size then ! ?

Also the enforcement notice guy ( he’s been out a few times ) took into account ‘ intent’ . If the builds higher what do I gain ? . Nothing . I can’t stick some dormers in and have a loft room as the head height is way to low . So though higher and not deliberate there’s no benefit too me . I think they are fairly broad minded on slight deviations from plans ....

Also when you get planning I can easily get confused by internal and external measurement :/) too be fair - my builds higher because the trusses turned up wrong !!!

Mine grew ( tape measure stretches in heat ) by 30cm wider , 50 cm taller , 100cm longer ...... ?

Checked out your blog on this. Very nice! Indeed the up stand doesn't seem the most complex thing to build (not even for me!). I guess the real key is that the EDPM goes at least half way up it.

Right!, Been looking into this more!. Certainly not paying nearly 1K for 4 up stands! They do seem simple enough to build. My plan, (I need to gain maybe 25cm). Is to put concrete blocks around the opening then make wooden 'wedges' to gain the slope. Wedges can be 'open' so insulation can be inserted. Ply on both sides to hold insulation in place. Also (as this is a driveway i.e. with chipping for driveway blocks) ; insulation outside around the upstand to increase u but also to protect EDPM from chipping. Internally insulated plasterboard up to glass. Hence why a good few companies don't sell up stands (I guess no-one pays 200 quid for 4 bits of wood!)

Here's the architects 'spec'. Not sure why we have the expensive Marmox thermoblock there?. There's no load bearing - so why not just continue the insulation across and up?? (cladding at base for example)

So battons over the 'final' pir - plasterboard fixing to that?

Ok!; anyway!; back to my original problem Insulation between rafters ; 50mm over the lot. Plasterboard fixes how?. The point of the 50mm over is to avoid all thermal bridges; so just upping with timber battons I guess doesn't help. Cheers

Actually in Florida for example virtually all builds are timber frame . Inside nice smooth walls no joins or cracks . Weather can change rapidly in temperature from lovely sunny to actually cold with a torrential down pour . So the frame must be moving . What do they do ? Any Florida house builders here ??? ?

Lol ! i know some of my limits ! Wouldn’t even attempt it !! . You would of thought though some resin type flexible wall screed existed by now . Can you not just invent one and go on dragons den for funding ? ?

Lol mine went to a vote with Bristol council after 5 years ! . Chairman abstained with a 4 - 3 in favour majority . If he had voted against would of been 4 - 4 ; then he gets to vote again !! ??

Top stuff ! i took 5 years to get planning and even recorded some of council “meetings” . Because if they don’t like you it’s a hard fight . Perseverance wins as you wear your opponent down . Now you’ve got planning the next stage of fun begins !!!

Slow I can do ?

No ones invented breathable flexible internal render ? why not ?

I think my architect wanted no thermal bridge . Insulation in between rafters then 50mm over that and the rafter edges . so complete insulation back to back

You would of thought there would be some internal render with some form of flexibility by now ? Im sure others will jump in with a solution . Like you I hate the cracks ! Brand new build should have no cracks ever ?

Drying to quick ? . Or if sun light is hitting one part and not another will cause shrinkage !!

Hey all my spec shows insulation in between rafters then 50mm over that whole thing finished with taped joints . So when I plasterboard I just screw straight through the pir into the timber ? . I’m worried on a timber frame build that once skimmed there’s bound to be some movement and plaster cracks ? even on a masonry build you always get hair line cracks where ceiling meets external wall . There a simple trick to avoid this ? Just calk the edges ??? just assume chance of skimming cracking higher on timber frame build .... cheers

Here's the only detail for the roof/drive. So the roof lights up stands must sit on the beam & block floor ( suspect I will need to build this up with blocks to get the height) the roof lights cant be driven on so foot traffic only !

Thanks ! I’ll check your blog !!

Guess I should treat the fall and finish like any driveway I.e chipping ; vibrator plate , sand , driveways blocks .

This is exactly what we are looking for ! i guess the up stand is perhaps more important than at first it appears . TBH I would prefer the up stand supplied then it’s one less thing to make !!

This is what I thought ! what kind of wood though ? Just ‘ normal ‘ timber - pressure treated ??? Some pir stuck on it ! :-))