Pocster

"3) How do you stick EDPM to EDPM?. I'm fairly sure the guys just stuck primer on both parts ; let it go tack then rollered them. But videos seem to suggest otherwise. Advice welcome here!" Right!, splice tape. There are 2 points at which they have joined on the flat bit. 99% they didn't use splice tape. They just stuck a piece over ( will get a photo tomorrow) . So I will cut a square and 'splice' a proper section on top for peace of mind! Then splice tape along base of wall and EDPM up!

Right! Couldn't get hold of my architect ( unsurprisingly ) but did the SE and asked him. he admitted not his field, but that the EDPM should lap up further and be above the finished paving and then some flashing. He agreed that no matter what I did *some* water would get in if only via the pavers. He said water between the EDPM and concrete was not a concern. He also confirmed water penetration through the concrete wouldn't happen ( I know this to be true as the initial roof is 100mm thick been exposed to everything for years and no water has ever come 'through' it ). So it is all about the edges!. SO!. 1) Would it be ok to fill in my angle grinded slots with CT1? ; no way I can get cement in them. 2) Will then 'lap' EDPM over his bodge/mess (delete as applicable) right up the wall past the final floor finish 3) How do you stick EDPM to EDPM?. I'm fairly sure the guys just stuck primer on both parts ; let it go tack then rollered them. But videos seem to suggest otherwise. Advice welcome here! 4) SE also suggested bedding the pavers in mortar!! so no movement and even less chance of water getting through (FFS! that's a load of work compared to the standard method) - still wacker plate can stay in the garage ? @cpd "God it’s painful to see how things are done by supposed professionals" . Tell me about it!. I deliberately didn't do this as I've never done it before and it's a one off i.e. I'm never going to rubber a roof again. Look what happens! - might aswell done it myself; hard to imagine I'd make a worse job of it. Any advice on any points really welcome!

Right ! @cpd i’m Going with you ! so ! ordered more edpm - will lap a piece over existing edges ( and bond of course ) Will take it right up the wall past floor finish THEN will flash it !! Say YES !

Yeah but I think @Cpd is saying “drain where ?” This is all above living accommodate so the edpm is the water proofing . Once rain water gets through and lands on the edpm it is stuck until it evaporates . I’m not sure what to do now !

I think my point is even with driveway pavers some water will soak through anyway .

Yep agree ! As water is bound to get in then I think that’s why the roofer said expansion gaps - so at least it can evaporate with air flow . Because the ‘roofer’ bodged it ; it’s not like your drawing .

Hey So the layout top down is pavers sand chippings 75mm concrete reinforced edpm cement board expensive insulation concrete reinforced 100mm The 75mm concrete is ‘level’ to the other 2 edges of the plot for run off . plot has slope away from house drainage channel with be placed directly in front house and at front of plot ( gate entrance and lowest point ) that help ? ?

I’m taking a vote on this with myself . I won the vote ?

Actually thinking about it .... if if this was done correctly edpm would be up past the final paving block level . Then the flashing would hang over it and sit on the paving . Because my flashing is below ground (effectively ) any moisture that does get in there can’t escape - it’s not breathable . The expansion gap would allow condensation and air flow under the flashing lip . Have I convinced myself a lie ??? ?

Thanks ! maybe ! I don’t know Is the theory correct though ? Can’t do any harm putting it in can it ???...... Someone with more knowledge please join in ?

Ok ! got the first length in pretty good ! Over the worse of the lumps will stick ct1 all along the top and into the slot By pure chance a roofer was parked nearby so I grabbed him . Once he finished laughing he said as the flashing is below my block pavers that I should put a fibre expansion joint in front the flashing . So the concrete stops short and the expansion joint will allow any water that does get in to evaporate otherwise without it I might get the capillary action . This sound right ? If so , after googling ; can’t actually find a product ( he said 3m long 3 Inch high ) cheers

Ffs ! tnt ; next day delivery ; turns up 3 days late . Ordered 3 items , but am expecting 4 parcels ? ; just flashing has turned up Just placed it in grove too see - need to cut deeper . Also to get ‘over’ the stone bumps recon I can ‘hammer’ around them and deform the metal . No one ever sees it ?

This is good advice ! Always get the firm out first to check access and reach !

I’m not worried ? My roofer can pack out that gap with sticky gunk ?

Well ! Naturally I had to google that ! Makes my glass look cheap ! - I was thinking more M & S handbag !

I’ll throw in a real nice handbag to sweeten the deal !

Oops ! A minor slip up on my part !!! They are far better than any handbag ?

Possibly ! But I doubt it . Did you want to make an offer you lucky fella ? ?

And ! It’s even cheaper for you guys as some glazed units are available at a discounted price . You lucky , lucky people !!!

Yep I agree But as a saving it is simple to install . Sealant round hole ; push glass down - done . Obviously trying all before with no sealant . If I bust a unit ; then my fault ?

Yes ! Its not like I’m buying some cheap crap . These are basically the same price as the 1st set ; so 3.5k punt a time !!!

Exactly ! Apparently you only usually get drawings on supply AND install . No drawings for just supply - that’s insane !!! . Just got new drawings ; looks correct now ?

Apparently they design whatever you want . It’s all quite strange ; because most companies *tell* you the design ....

I did They now admit the information wasn’t passed on to the ‘design’ guy . We are going to split the cost increase !!