Pocster

I know the feeling big boy 😉

I think it would probably just be the mistresses bedroom

Maybe a floor unit? . Usually cheaper . Still got to create a vent hole through the wall either way

I’d like it on record @Nickfromwales whom started this degrading dirty talk . Yet has he been banned for a month like I suffered ? , no . I think a month in the wilderness will be good for him . @Onoff suck on that fella !

Yeah I read that . I have tinnitus so noise probably not an issue . Split system better ? ( not just cost ) . That’s not just plug ‘n play though is it ?

You’re such a dirty (expletive deleted)er ! . I can’t double use the glory hole for air con can I !

Yeah - knew I’d end up here eventually . So I’m looking on just 1 bedroom for now . I believe a mono block system ? . Plug into a socket , 6cm hole through wall ( 2 hole system better I believe ) ; job done ? That simple ? , any advice or recommendations?? ta !

Oh yes ! You have got a massive surprise coming !

That’s really rude. I’m quite offended . But it’s Friday ; so don’t give a (expletive deleted)

Yeah it is just an open or closed circuit ( the switch ) . Been fiddling and am indeed using pin 9 and pin 7 gnd and I think it works . Just noticed your diagram is different . Also just noticed I have the Shelly uni plus - so that could be the confusion

Hmmmmm Not pin 7/8 and gnd ?

Nah . Wire on float is 20cm - but will need to be much longer in real use e.g 3meters . Guess I need to wire it with ‘real world’ wire lengths aswell to test . I could get around this with software I.e switch triggers , alarm goes off , then resets after a minute ; switch as latched on won’t trigger it again . So a manual reset required - probably a good idea after a critical flood event has occurred .

But why is it needed ? When the float is off - it’s fine . Activate float , Shelly uni shows ‘closed’ on dry contact . Which is correct . Why doesn’t resetting the float ( open circuit again ) not cause Shelly uni to see that ? as it’s a dry contact .

Yeah and ? . It’s a dry contact;

Humans ! I’ve got a dry contact float switch . Works as it should . Stuck my meter on it for continuity test - all good . In Home assistant though ( via a Shelly uni ) it ‘latches ‘ I.e stays ‘on’ even when float physically reset . Chat ( my new best mate ) warbles on about a pull up resistor . This correct ? . If correct how do I know what value to use ? cheers peeps

Inspired by my success I want a similar system but for when the outdoor rainwater pump fails and also the not in use yet sewage pump ( for swmbo’s tiny underground wc ). So 1 control box ( as before ) but 2 float / lever devices trigger the alarm but also HA though using WiFi as no zigbee outdoors . The very fiddly Shelly uni does the trick . But those (expletive deleted)ing hair thick wires…. oh yeah - needed 2 dry contact inputs - which seems to be a big ask

SWMBO said the same

Painted it . Well , I literally poured a tin of bitumen paint over it and pushed it around

Agree with this . But ( as I did ) you can do these things yourself and save £££££ on the surveys /reports . What you find may balloon costs …

Whilst you jest. "eco"wet wipes are a true nightmare. I've had issues with these in different properties. Naturally tenants think they are ok to flush... But - if you have seen 100's of wet wipes backing up out a drain with sewage it ain't funny.

Installed and functional 👍

Was at the property today . Noticed some light cracking downstairs and indeed the pavers have dropped . I forgot that a few months ago tenants blocked the drain with Wetwipes . Had raw sewage up from the house to over the pavers . Guessing that could contribute to some movement

You think I a) drink cheap coffee b) would ever enter a happy shopper store 🤔

Stop going to work . Then you can drink cheap coffee at home . 👍