MortarThePoint

What do people think of different weep types? Any recommendations? I like the look of the Invisiweep vent as it makes the hole on the outside smaller than for the standard ones (shown below above the standard ones)

Agreed, it's bonkers. Into the cavity I wouldn't argue with, but sticking out like that it would catch rain and have things growing on it. I need to take a stand on this as, in my mind and pretty much everyone else's, it it is a thoroughly bad idea to have it sticking out like that. I think this is where I'd like to get to, so that the inspector can see it has been installed, but it doesn't act as a rain catcher. My brickie talks of having minimal mortar under the DPC, whereas where I have noticed DPCs they appear to be in the middle of the bed. A complication of this though is that the outer course brick would have to be laid before, or at the same time as, the inner blockwork so that it could be aligned appropriately.

I agree, 10mm would look terrible. I think it would look best if it didn't stick out at all. also I think any amount of sticking out has the rain issue that is likely greater than the risk of rising damp.

My brickie and BCO both say that the DPC/cavity tray at the bottom of wall (above splash) can stop just short of the edge of the mortar so that it isn't visible, but my warranty inspector says that he would require it remediated if that was the case. He says it needs to stick out by 10mm so that capillary action doesn't allow water to bypass the DPC. I think that's going to make things much worse as rain could collect on the surface of the part sticking out and then get sucked into the wall at a much greater rate than any rising damp could possibly bypass the DPC. Here's how NHBC draw it in their guidance: I'm wondering if I can keep everyone happy by using some kind of liquid DPC in addition to having a recessed DPC/cavity tray. Either: painted on the top of the lower course forming a DPC (e.g. Black Jack ) though ideally clear use a waterproofing admixture in the mortar to make the mortar waterproof and effectively a DPC in its own right (e.g. Sika 1 ) My brickie is going to think I've lost the plot, but the thought of the warranty inspector kicking up a fuss about the DPC would give me nighmares as remediating that would cost a fortune.

Wienerberger (Terca) Pastorale Multi. It must be deliberate to save some pennies on materials. I was nervous that too many decisions get made on the basis of a pack or two so we sampled across a number of packs.

Most standard site policies have a provision that is too low by default (£30k), but you can request higher. I'd expect you can make the change to an existing policy.

Well this is more of a therapy session post or cautionary tale for anyone else. I spent a long time bonding the house out at the design stage, including the periscope vent positions etc and it was all based on 215 mm stretcher and 102.5 mm header. The packs have 215 and 102 marked on them so fine there, checked. Reality is the bricks are all 210mm and many less, very few more and don't think I have come across a 215 mm one yet. Headers more like 98mm. They are stated as size tolerance T1, and that allows a range of 209 - 221 mm. Some are a tad under the 209 mm, but certainly the average isn't 215 mm. I'd say the average is likely 210 mm. To keep as bonded out in theory would make for 15 mm perps which would look bad. The brickies are bonding out now and there are lots of double header and double stretchers being deployed to fix this discrepancy. This has caught out the Architect as well as he set loads of dimensions based on theoretically working for bond. Thank goodness I haven't ordered the windows yet. Learning: check your bricks for real size distribution before finalising dimensions.

Half way through the shift now after 5 hours of telehandling. Hoping it stays dry overnight and I can finish the rest tomorrow.

Some good replies already. I'd reiterate the point of whether you'll enjoy the journey of renovation or not. It's a viable choice to choose to spend more than it's worth on paper if it provides you with a hobby you enjoy. If you see it as being trapped in a nightmare then that's the opposite. Are you currently essentially debt free? It's easy to focus on how much you've already sunk in to it but try to focus on what's ahead. If you can genuinely get a return on the future investment then it is a reasonable idea. Alternatively, if you can cut your losses then that could be the right decision. It's difficult to know from a forum if this is one of the low points on a bumpy but fruitful journey or if this is the gradual realisation of a large mistake. I'm feeling the latter. You may have done so already, but play out some 'what if' scenarios and honestly (to yourself) research them. What if you just walked away, what if there were more unforseen costs, etc. If you're feeling trapped in a nightmare try to keep your spirits up. Happiness lies ahead you just need to plot your path through these troubled waters.

Well that's the first load delivered. Good news is they are on little wooden pallets. Bad news is the aspect ratio of the packaging is such that they are tall and thin so more of a topple risk. For shifting, I might lift it on to a larger pallet and strap down for the 400m move. Possibly even fashion a 4x2 brace as below.

I have no choice unfortunately as I can't get them direct on to site. It's either me moving them by telehandler or someone else and they might be less careful. Thanks, I'll be all over that. I am going to make sure the brickies have at least 4 packs on the go at any one time. They know all that, but it's a mistake not worth making.

No scaffolding yet. 'It's on the list' ?

Thanks PeterW. I'll look out for the packs being square and any signs of damage to the wrap. It is a lot of bricks (artic and a part load), but is enough for the whole house and garage and means we're set. We have space for them thankfully as it's a large site. Unfortunately they are being offloaded in a yard opposite site as despite the site being large, access isn't possible for an artic. I did ask for rigids but got a "no", despite the blocks coming on rigids. I've hired a telehandler to move them on to site which will take a while, but then I can carefully put them exactly where I want them. I'll try to place them 2 high and 2 deep with 500mm around all sides for access and ventilation. That suggests I need about 2.5m x 10m space for them.

The bricks are due today and it occurred to I should ask what's important to check when they arrive. I obviously need to check they're the correct ones and the quantity. How do I easily check for breakage as there will be 26 pallets of them? They are coming direct from Wienerberger who I've been told pack them well. Is there something else I should be checking? Excited but nervous seems to be my default state at the moment.

They look nice. Is that lime mortar as well?

Thanks @LA3222 ! What are the bricks called?

An advantage of the Engineering brick is it feels more weather proof, but ultimately if a brick is going to suffer at 45 degrees it will suffer if vertical as well

I wondered about that, it would look something like this:

Yes that's what they say are available. For facing brick, we're using Wienerbrger Pastorale Multi: And they have Warnham Red Stock (L) and Sandown Red Engineering (R) available quickly: Though somehow bricks never look like the manufacturers website. Here is a panel I put up of Pastorale Multi: and what I expect the Engineering brick to look like:

Thankfully this is only for the garage, but I have been quoted 16 weeks for the plinth bricks. There are some slightly different bricks that are available quickly as well as engineering type ones. Cut and bond doesn't look great in the photos I have seen so far, if someone has some better photos that could help convince me otherwise. Another option I was wondering is how difficult would it be to lay temporary bricks that are there for a few months until the replacements arrive and then swap those in. It may sound like madness, but I'd like to consider options as I'd like to finish the garage as soon as possible for storage etc. A third option could be to add in just the angled part (cut off a plinth brick) later on. I've sketched this below:

I went with Capital Valley Plastics High Performance DPC as it is rated for 3+ storeys and I could get in next day. I don't need its gas properties, but its Radon proof as well: http://www.capitalvalleyplastics.com/product/radbar-high-performance-dpc/

Thanks @nod High load: Do you remember the brand you used? I've seen this commonly available, but no idea if any good: https://www.ikogroup.co.uk/product/iko-hyload-original-dpc/ 600 mil: I read that as you used a 600mm wide DPC folded up over the beams, sounds like a nice approach.

We're using Thermabeam rather than beam and block, but the compressive load under the supports will be similar. As there are concentrated loads, do I need to use a specific type of DPC? What DPC do people use for beam & block beams to bear directly on?

It also does feel like it would be hard to bed the bricks properly without trimming it back.

The NHBC guidance documents show the outer edge of the cavity tray DPC going past the edge of the lintel (see below). I've not noticed this done and have seen it trimmed back from the edge, for example this video. What did people do themselves here? I'm not sure which presents the greater risk of capillary action drawing water into the cavity under the DPC of the cavity tray?