MortarThePoint

Has anyone tried this: https://www.expandingfoamtape.co.uk/ It's around £2.24/m for 20mm wide, 5-12 thick

In this installation video from Cemfloor about expansion joints, they haven't added any sleeves at the joints, but I do notice that what I presume is the Flow pipe has conduit around it for a long distance. Insulation I guess. https://cemfloor.co.uk/training/ STEP 3

I'm going for Cemfloor Therm and the installer said he puts pieces of plywood in the doorways to encourage localised crack. I had already started installing 'pipe expansion sleeves' aka 25mm flexible conduit in the doorways and he said not to bother. Magnus Magnuson, I did it in all doorways. You can see an example below, a bit difficult as it's white. I put them on the pipe as laid, so unless I forgot and added later, they don't have skits along their length making removal difficult. Is this a mistake, should I remove them all? Screed is going in at 50mm nominal and needs 25mm over pipes which it would achieve over these unless the float up slightly.

What NHBC call Serpentine achieves the same by meandering out at twice the spacing and the returning in the gap left.

According to NHBC it's linear pattern not serpentine. Anyway, one continuous meandering from one side of an area to the other.

As we are using 150mm pipe spacing (ASHP) most rooms end up as two loops. Typically theses are laid at right angles to the wall with a window. Serpentine pattern. How should the two loops have their flow and return chosen. Options: 1. Both loops flow to middle of room, return from edge of room. Cosiest in middle of room, but does it concentrate too much heat there? 2. Both loops flow to outside of room 3. Keep same flow direction, one loop flows to outside first, second to middle first. I think I've seen this in some Google search results. 4. Doesn't matter a jot About to cut my loops onto the manifold so want to get it right.

Not in yet so it's an option to reinforce if I can get some in time

This is what it would end up looking like The gap highlighted would probably be around 5mm, but could end up being more. I'd be surprised if it's an issue for carpet or timber flooring even at 20mm. Tiles may be more of an issue, but perhaps that needs to be. @Nickfromwales and @Russell griffiths you're talking about reinforcing with mesh where I have shown the green squiggle. I can't see it cracking there unless the HCF and UC beam move differentially and if that occurs do I want the screed to fight it? It would be worse for the screed to crack somewhere else.

If not using chicken wire, what's the best bet. Anything available from Toolstation/Screwfix?

It's looking like my best bet is to hold the screed back a bit further to allow options. I can then cast a continuation of the screed or bolt timer to the steel beam. Ideally this would all be done already and I'd just be screeding to the edge of the steel. I'll leave the screed 100mm back from the edge of the beam as I can't imagine us having posts larger than that.

I'm only asking the ~40mm screed to bridge a gap of around 20mm so it should be stiff enough for that even without reinforcement. Looks wider in some places do to vertical difference. If there is differential movement between the beam and the hollowcore, then even reinforced I'd expect it would crack.

We haven't chosen one yet. Something like the links below. The recommend a maximum of 2.4m between posts. That probably means we'll have to have 4 posts (top of stair, 1.6m from stair, 1.6m from end wall and on end wall). https://www.blueprintjoinery.com/timber-stair-parts/classic-rolling-pin/ https://www.blueprintjoinery.com/timber-stair-parts/square-twist/square-twist-stair-&-landing-balustrade-kit/ They have a fastening system for timber or concrete (link below) but I'd ultimately need to anchor to the steel beam as the screed (40mm) isn't thick enough to anchor to. https://www.blueprintjoinery.com/timber-stair-parts/fixings-and-accessories/slip-fix-newel-post-to-floor-ut-post-fastener/ If I am going to have to drill holes in the beam, I want to be sure I have enough space so that would suggest holding the screed back more.

I'm a bit concerned that the length of the landing means that I'll have to have additional newl posts along its length, not just at the two ends (top of stair and wall). The balustrade is about 5m long. I can't readily see a building regulation or guidance for this.

I have a first floor landing next to a void down to the ground floor. Along the edge of the landing is a steel beam and the majority of the landing itself is Hollowcore slab. I am preparing for this area to be screeded, so need to put in a dam to stop screed waterfalling over the edge. See below what I have done. It leaves me wondering about how I am going to anchor the balustrade. Having removed the timber form work I'll have a strip of the beam left showing around 70mm wide. I could drill holes in the steel and attach a piece of wood along the length of the beam except where the stair meets the landing. Would I need to have something fireproof between the metal beam and the piece of wood bolted to its top? Have I got my form work in the right place? Leave a wider section of beam exposed Try to minimise the section of beam exposed Looks like a good plan, crack on Speaking of cracking, the intended finish along here is carpet, but down the line I guess it could become tile so I was wanting to avoid having to fill a gap between the edge of the screed and the balustrade timber with SLC or the like as could cause cracked tiles. At the top of the stairs should I have the screed go right to the edge of the beam?

Sounds interesting. Why do you want differential pressure? Is it to minimise air leakage?

Nice part. I have used some parts like BMP180 before and these pressure sensors are very precise. Have you found a use for the pressure measurements?

Thanks. I have ordered 5 to have a play. I am also considering MAX31820. Similar sort of deal, except on Farnell or RS (reliable) they are half the price of DS18B20 and the +/-0.5C accuracy range is limited to +10C to +45C. That should be fine for indoor applications. £1.68 at 10 off. May not work with standard libraries but should be easy to port. A bunch of these on telephone wire covered in rubbery potting compound or some flexible grab adhesive should work nicely. Please note: big difference is working voltage 3 to 3.7V so wouldn't work with 5V Arduino. Laid ready for screed to go over could be asking for the screeder to kick the wires though. https://uk.farnell.com/maxim-integrated-products/max31820mcr/temperature-sensor-2deg-c-to-92/dp/2515555?st=max31820 https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-humidity-sensor-ics/1905324

I'm keen to get some of these probes. How do you know they were genuine? Did you read the serial numbers etc?

I've been thinking about embedding some DS18B20 temperature sensors on a network. They're about £4 each. Fakes are much cheaper (~50p) but cause issues which is a shame as at 50p a pop I'd litter them everywhere. https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/TheGadgetBoy/ds18b20-digital-temperature-sensor-and-arduino-9cc806

They didn't question that. Where would the bypass go, across each manifold or in parallel with the three manifold circuits?

I'm going to leave enough space to fit a pump set on each manifold. The plan (which may be wrong) is set out in the diagram below which I shared with WUNDA. Three prallel circuits each with their own 2 port control valve but one or no additional pump. I have wondered how the flow is regulated into each parallel branch given two of the manifolds have 10 or 12 ports used and the third only 3 used. If it's all pressure driven, then the parallel configuration should be OK with one pump, perhaps integrated into the ASHP.

I shouldn't need any pumps at the actual manifolds (ASHP setup), but I would like to space my bars appropriately should I need to retrofit. Looks like that means I'll have the bars at their maximum spacing of 230mm.

Don't quite follow what this is saying. What does "Trimmer between walls mean"? https://stairs.bwf.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Toolbox-talks-SPLIT-5.pdf

Thanks! Do you know what the section of the timber labelled with the red arrow below is? 4x2, 6x2 or 8x2? Have you mounted your manifold on a board (if so of what) or neatly not painted an area?

Straight from the WUNDA installation blurb. To allow space for connecting and disconnecting all the pipes I guess.