MortarThePoint

No full size snooker table for me a Pot Black chipboard special though in my case a Pot White

Is there a rule of thumb as to how the side windows should open? They can either be hinged on the house side of the bay elevation (option B) or on the other side (option A). Option A: hinged on side away from house, opening gap nearest house, you see the outside of the window sash when looking at the front of the house with the windows open Option B: hinged on side closest to house, opening gap away from house, you see the inside of the window sash when looking at the front of the house with the windows open I can see you'd get more ventilation with option B. There must be a way this is normally done

I've wondered about that. One of the French doors is in the kitchen and there is a normal pedestrian back door at the other end of the kitchen so that's the access. I can't see why we would open these unless it's a sunny day and we want both open anyway. You never really know how you use somewhere until you've lived there though. Carrying furniture about is a consideration though as the total opening will be around 1200mm. Should that be wide enough for must things?

Perhaps less popular these days than bifolds, but we are planning on French doors with side lights. All our windows run on multiples of ~600mm lights (e.g. 1800mm triple light) and have astragals. The doors reveals are 2400mm wide. There are various decisions to be made enroute and I thought I'd share the thoughts: widths: below is an image that shows the three options considered. Large doors do look good in isolation from the windows and has good utility (being able to pass in and out of a single door) but doesn't look so in keeping with the rest of the windows. Equal sash widths ties in well with the windows, but the glass in the door looks pretty narrow. We thought Equal glass width was the best compromise as it doesn't look too mismatched with the windows and looks more natural in itself than equal sashes. It makes the door sashes around 600mm which is narrow if opening one. threshold: We've gone PVCu and you can either have that as the threshold or aluminium. Both would have the top of the threshold 20-25mm higher than the floor finish. We thought black aluminium would wear better. vertical alignment: We thought we could focus on aligning bottom of sash or bottom of glass (Only option at top is to align tops of sashes*). The side lights have PVCu frames at their bottom. Alignment with the doors is easy if the doors have a PVCu threshold and you want the bottom of door and window sashes level. Using the aluminium threshold, you need to mount the threshold ~25mm higher than the bottom of window frame to have their sash bottoms level. We plan to do this and use a 25mm hard wood packer on top of the hard wood cill we are going to use. That will then need to be dressed with a colour matched trim [* you could use the thicker door sash profiles for the side light bottom and top, but we weren't so keen on that] astragals: equally divide the door glass or the window glass. We preferred the latter (as drawn below). Width options: All total 2.4m x 2.1m. left to right equal sash width, equal glazing width and large doors (1500mm for pair). Which choices would you have made?

You can't have a flat roof section with render below ? And that is how it should be done ….! So you would always have a stepped cavity tray even in a blockwork elevation. Would you use coursing blocks to avoid making the flashing steps very high (which would use excessive amounts of lead and cause issues of the render spanning too far across the lead)?

Any water that penetrates the render will penetrate the blockwork too. There isn't a continuous void between the render and the blockwork. You don't have a weep on each step in render do you as that would cause staining. There is a weep at the end of the stepped cavity tray 'staircase'

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I'm confused as to why this will leak. There is a stepped cavity tray above to guide water down the cavity away from the abutment and there is sufficient lead upstand to cope with roof water splash. Unless it's cut in to the wall immediately below a cavity tray, the lip won't do anything.

Bay pole jacks supporting corner posts look to be the correct solution and rated (most) to 2t so plenty of capacity. https://www.windowwidgets.co.uk/corner-posts/ The challenge now is how to mount it on the brickwork as the exterior leaf corbels out by two courses (32mm) at the top of the short wall of the bay. I can lay some cut bricks to fill in behind the corbelled bricks, but it would be nice to have a better footing. I guess an L-shaped (in plan) plate laid on top of the brickwork could act as a spreader. Would be nice to bridge the cavity with a square plate, but that would create a cold bridge. [mild steel 50W/Km, 10mm x 200mm x 200mm(bridge) --> 50*0.010*0.200/0.100=1W/K]

I'm sure I've seen a lot of houses with render down much closer to the bay window tiles. Have they rendered over the lead or got tiny lead flashing upstand? Render tight up to roof: Close: Render quite far from roof:

Couldn't find their PDF but found another organisations Craftsman's Guide. they show that the render bead does go far over the lead flashing. Unless the lead is trimmed a bit, it may only just reach the nails holding the lead flashing in place. They haven't chased the lead in. Should it be chased in?

Thanks. Cavity trays are in and there is a lintel in the wall (so not a pile of rubble ? ) Just kidding, I presume you mean keystone across the bay not in the wall. I think I've been overestimating how far the render goes over the lead. Render says 30-50mm. That should leave lots of room to shift the lead slightly to tuck soakers under shouldn't it?

Other options that come to mind: Add some stub rafters (~400mm long that are enough for the first two courses of roof tiles and the battens beneath. Tile top two courses of tiles and dress with lead etc. Problems: What to do about roofing membrane? Would get in the way/knocked. Not render this area. hold the render back around the bay window roof and then later once the roof is in place feather in a second job of rendering. Problems: could create a visible join, could create cracking weak spot at join. Weld the lead line. Weld each soaker that is added to the flashing and to the soaker beneath it. Dress lead over the render. Not aesthetically what we want. Handle the leaks. e.g. use DPC dressed on wall and tucked over roofing membrane Problems: extra material to squeeze under the render. Could cut it the DPC into the blockwork below the stop line of the render but above the bottom of the lead flashing. Could put excessive amounts of water on to the roofing membrane. Handle the leaks 2. let the water go down onto DPM over the ceiling below. Problem: could have pooling and humidity/mold.

Do you mean these bits where it's a sloped roof abutment rather than ridge abutment? I could tuck some DPC underneath where the lead would go that could then get folded onto the roofing membrane. In that way any water that got through the lead would be guided on to the roofing membrane by the DPC. That makes for a bit of a stack up under the render though which could be a problem (render cracking).

I pre ordered the windows for the rendered sections and they are now installed

I pre ordered the windows for the rendered sections and they are now installed

Any other options? The render is booked in for just over a week's time. He'll need the scaffold to stand on too

Why will it leak? Won't any water striking the flashing drain onto the soakers that are tucked under it.

I'm specifying the windows for our bay window and it's raising a lot of questions that I'm sure the wiser among us have come across before. Below is an extract from the elevations drawings and a dimensions drawing of what the masonry and window elements look like in the bay. Questions: Window tolerances: Across the front to the rectangular bay the dimensions are in the hands of the window manufacturer as it's not like it needs to fit with a reveal that is slightly off nominal or slightly off plumb. So there I presume I specify the actual dimension I get by measuring on site and subtracting twice the desired amount the windows are to be set back from brickwork (twice because one set back at each end of the run). That leaves the dimension between the pillar and the brickwork wall. Here we are subject to variations in plumb etc. For my windows in reveals I have allowed a tolerance of 5mm to the cavity closer and lintel on all four sides. Do I just allow a tolerance of 5mm on these side dimensions? If so that yields left: 695mm - 2.5mm(cavity closer) - 5mm(tolerance) = 687mm and right: 705mm - 2.5mm(cavity closer) - 5mm(tolerance) = 697mm. Is that correct or am I missing something or being too tight with the tolerances? Roof support vs pillars: I'm pretty sure all the windows quotes I have had have said their pillars aren't structural, so I need to work out how best to support the hipped bay roof. Making it self supporting off the wall could be a big ask as it will put a lateral force on the wall that will try to pull out any fixing used at the roof's pitch abutment*. The rightangle bay posts in the window range I have gone with appears to include a metal corner post and jack arrangement, but no information about how much weight is allowed. The roof is around 1100mm x 4200mm at a 45 degree pitch (1.5m pitch abutment length) so that works out as 1.1m*((1.5+4.2m)/2 + 2*(0.5*1.1m))*1.41 * 77kg/m2 = 572kg is just tiles. The load is mostly on the wall side, but I can easily see >100kg required on each pillar support and that's before adding any snow load etc. I guess a factored load would be more like 300kg. [*] Force calc: taking moments about the bottom left corner and just considering tile weight: F_fix*600mm = 77kg/m2*(1100mm*600mm*1.41) * (1100mm/2) --> F_fix = 66kgf = 0.7kN (first 600mm is the vertical distance to the fixing from bottom of 'truss', second 600mm is fixing spacing). There are other weights to be considered so probably more like F_fix = 2kN, perhaps 1kN if using one fixing every 300mm instead. Most of the blockwork is a low panel beneath the window so no real weight to the wall there. Abutment lead vs render: The render above the bay roof needs to go on before the roof is in place (scaffolding in the way). This means what would normally be supporting the lead isn't there yet. I think I understand the approach here. The roofer puts in flashing flat to the wall which gets mostly rendered over. The roofers then tuck their soakers under this flashing when the roof gets installed. Above the windows: There is a short vertical distance ~450mm that needs to get framed out in timber. This is then to receive 12mm painted plywood. Across the top of the windows 2no. 50x200mm timbers. No real need for soffit, but will need sprocket, fascia and guttering.

OK for now. My local Minster and Travis Perkins have the standard stuff in stock. The BG Acoustic and deep track needs ordering in (e.g. from CCF), but that's only a couple of days (supposedly). Prices have been going up, but nowhere near timber.

No test thankfully and likely overkill anyway ?

Does anyone know if I should start a BG acoustic stud (Acoustud) partition on a blockwork abutment with a standard C-stud or on a vertically mounted section of floor/ceiling channel? The BG Acoustud doesn't have a flat back so won't work screwed t a blockowork wall. Tried getting an answer from BG but their swamped and haven't responded.

Hmm, looks like TradeLine specify 400mm centres though! Also with reduced GL2 c/c. https://user-ehptxzr.cld.bz/ccf-bookshelf/Tradeline-Brochure-2017/86/ GL1: TradeLine 2.5m/m2 £0.83/m, £2.08/m2 GL2: A Hough 12.5p each but 4.2/m2 GL3: A Hough 18p each but 0.7/m2 GL8: TradeLine 75p/m That makes the arbitrary 4m x 4m room 16m2*(£2.08/m2 + £0.53/m2 + £0.13/m2) + 16m*(£0.75/m) = £55.84 or about £3.50/m2 plus screws which is more than BG. BG is only at 600mm centres with GypLyner if using 15mm plasterboard though: WhiteBook C06. S04. P07 If using 12.5mm plasterboard the TradeLine offering will still be cheaper than BG despite using more GL2 brackets.

I've had some prices on TradeLine and it is much cheaper: GL1: TradeLine 1.67m/m2 £0.83/m, £1.38/m2 GL2: A Hough 12.5p each which is similar to Builder Depot GL3: A Hough 18p each which isn't better than Builder Depot GL8: TradeLine 75p/m That makes the arbitrary 4m x 4m room 16m2*(£1.38/m2 + £0.18/m2 + £0.09/m2) + 16m*(£0.75/m) = £38.40 or about £2.40/m2 plus screws.

That works out as £6.50/m of wall uplift to timber plus resilient channel at around £6/m of wall.