MortarThePoint

This is an interesting note in the instruction manual: "We do not recommend mixing LEDs circuits with products such as extractor fans. This is due to the sensitive nature of LEDs and is not product specific"

Looks to need a minimum 40mm void depth though (extract from manual PDF at bottom of Screwfix specifications tab) This one is thin but can't see a void spec and could be low quality: https://hartingtonheath.com/product/i-lumos-led-6-watt-round-recessed-lighting-panel-ultraslim-ceiling-light/

+1 for the VCL inside all PIR. What fixings are you using for the plasterboard though? Interesting, do you have a link to one or some?

This system is interesting and doing the sort of job I am after. https://www.bigmat.fr/video/ki-comble-reno-2013/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXEAGvPTJuM

I'm considering Pavatherm as an alternative. What type of scre do you use when you fix plasterboard through PIR?

Stand off blocks are a nice idea. PIR certainly has it's benefits.

Too late unfortunately as the roof is tiled.

I guess another mounting option if the GL6 has to be vertical is to add a timber batten cut to a triangle:

In order to have more insulation in the pitched roof sections, I had planned to use 50mm counter battens underneath the rafters. I need more than 50m now having looked at the various insulation options (can't use PIR due to design ethos). 75mm counter battens start to feel a bit crazy. I could go with 25mm battens and 50mm counter battens or v-v. A mistake not to have gone with full rafter fill, but having to roll with it now. A thought occurred to me which was to use GL1 and GL6 to achieve a 75mm gap. This would be better thermally as would avoid the counter batten thermal bridge. I have sketched the make up below. I'd be able to get 2no. screws into the GL6 about 80mm apart. I've emailed BG Technical, but don't have a good record of timely responses.

Could a liquid DPC be an option that gives better bonding to mortar? https://www.toolstation.com/damp-proof-membrane/p10290

We all know Superman is a bit of a voyeur so it's good to know Knauf Performance Plus plasterboard has "X-ray resistance" https://www.insulationshop.co/12.5mm_knauf_performance_plus_1200_x_2400.html

Got it in. It was a squeeze as I had made a measurement mistake but it is in and looking good ?

Thinking more in terms of walls, but it is a valid point. It's frustrating as I can see a few walls where I'd happily pay the extra £8/sh, but has to be sourced as a full pallet (38no. 2.7m sheets). Fischer have an interesting test report. Comparing various board performances with a HM5X52 fixing: 12.5mm Wallboard 0.6kN 15mm SoundBloc 0.75kN 15mm DuraLine 0.85kN 15mm FireLine 1.1kN In those last three board types and that fixing they conclude safe working loads over 0.2kN which is 20kg. "According to the Construction Fixings Association guidelines; “Ultimate load tests should be carried out and admissible loads (Safe Working Loads) determined according to the manufacturers technical policy.” For fischer this requires a safety factor of 4 for steel fixings and a safety factor of 7 for Nylon fixings."

Just saw this video comparing Habito, Duraline and standard plasterboard for impact resistance. Makes me want Habito even more, but it's 60% more expensive than Duraline and pallet quantities, so it's hard to justify.

I know you can use either wafer head screws or a stud crimper to joint metal frame together, but wondered what people actually tend to use. I like the idea of the crimper not leaving heads that stick out and the plasterboard has to go over. What do the pros use? @Conor looks like your MF contractor used some wafer screws, but did they use them through out or also use a crimper?

It's to keep the option of opening that area up and having it more open plan. There is a steel there so no need for a load bearing partition.

Do you mean the bit of wall circled in red. I may remove this from the design.

I might have some so that's a good thought.

I need to construct a shot section (565mm) of stud partition between two sets of doors. The blockwork either side of these doors is 190mm, thick, so I need to use substantial studs. I suppose I could use two lots of 90mm MF c-studs right next to each other. The wall circled in red below has a pocket door in it and I'm thinking of not having this wall altogether. That means the pillar sits isolated, so needs to be quite strong hard to resist the forces from the doors. The sole plate will be glued down and the header above the doors will go across to the blockwork. Which do you prefer the sound of: 2layers of 90mm c-studs 1 layer of 146mm c-studs with extra sheet of plasterboard each side. 7x2 timber

Great, I have a bag of ones similar to those as well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NWMCDVP/ That type is often described as glazing packers and used between the glazing unit and the sash frame, but should be good under the cill too.

Thanks. Just standard frame packers like pictured below? I'm so used to beds of mortar under wallplates that it always feels like a nice way of spreading the load https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-44006-Plastic-Packers-Pieces/dp/B001233ZJC/

I found the information below in another one of their documents. This looks good for installing in sections. Any idea what the material I have circled in red is? It's not something the windows have come with and I presume it is something slightly compliant to avoid pressure concentrations.

Thanks. It's on the first floor above a void unfortunately. We'll make a small scaffold for it, but may need to enlist some more hands unless we can work out installing in sections.

As far as I understand it they even have hinges, but I may have got the wrong end of the stick

With the Residence 9 flush casement system dummy sashes are actually normal sashes without handles and there is apparently a trick to opening them.